Just need to vent thread hah

MurderedQC

MurderedQC

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Ok so my old issue I was having about blowing ASD relays went away for 6k miles.... well... the other day while messing with a VooDoo Viper it blew again. I pulled over and checked and sure as heck the fuse blew. I replaced it after moving the injector harness and I turned the key on and... uh oh.. smoke from the harness. I moved it more and no smoke, put a smaller amp fuse in there to make sure it would blow under less resistance... and it started right up. I limped home and parked it. Well this morning I got excited and pulled the intake manifold. That being said I want to find the guy that thought the drivers side bolt would be a good idea and kick him in the nuts. ABOVE ALL, that damn bolt was stripped out from the previous owner.... go freaking figure. After a few morning beers and some loud angry words, i got the bolt out. I inspected the harness and BOOM, a wire split in two... Now i got to thinking since the Intake manifold is off I might as well wait for new coils and wires, plus im not in the mood to put the intake manifold back on haha.

/end rant

Have a wonderful day :)
 
Lol sorry bout ur luck man.... least u seem to have somewhat of a cheerful way of telling us.... good luck!!!
 
Tell us more about the wire and location in case others run into the same. I hate how the harness is routed in the pass side and against the block edge. Stupid things on a $60k truck
 
I will post a pic of the wire
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well here is an update. I fixed the wire and put it all back together. Right when i got home (after I limped it home) it sat for a few days. I drove it into the shop but when i tried to restart it, I noticed I lost ALL signal to the pcm and obII connector. All the lights on the dash will come on, no fuel pump, nothing. Well after putting it all together, I put a small amp fuse in the ASD slot and it didnt blow! so that being said I fixed the short. But I still have NO communication to the PCM. DO you think that short fried the pcm?
 
I am not throwing ANY codes... that being because I am not getting any communication haha
 
Could be worse....mine doesn't even run:argh:
VIPER2_zpse55efb1f.jpg
 
Why did the wire fail like that? Was it rubbing something? Its a nasty looking fault for a wire that is protected by all that sticky ass sleeving. A broken wire by itself wont cause a fuse to blow, it has to have a short to ground and I dont understand how that is possible in the harness sleeving.
 
It was shorting out to the block. The injector wire sleeve was exposed and the wire must have been touching. There was some grim in there too which could have arced the short. Im sure it was completely in two until I tried to move the harness. And yes that was the issue of blowing the fuse. That wire runs to the ASD fuse, NOT RELAY, (30a fuse). The circuit runs the o2 sensors, pcm, and injectors. Any short in that will cause the relay to pop. I think when I was moving the harness it shorted too much and blew the pcm. Before I took the manifold off I could put a 20a fuse in and turn the key on and it would blow instantly. Now after I repaired it, I can put a 20a fuse in and it will not blow. This leaves me to believe that the pcm is fried. Anyone else have any ideas on stuff to look for before I go and buy a new pcm? I have no signal at all to the pcm. I turn the key on and it turn the lights on the dash on like normal, but after about 5 seconds all the lights on the dash come on. I tried hooking up my sct tuner but no signal through the obd2 connection at all. Also, the fuel pump does not kick in on the 'on' cycle.
This sucks because I was about to go to the track with the new DR's and was hoping to pull 12's! DAMN IT! haha
 
It was shorting out to the block. The injector wire sleeve was exposed and the wire must have been touching. There was some grim in there too which could have arced the short. Im sure it was completely in two until I tried to move the harness. And yes that was the issue of blowing the fuse. That wire runs to the ASD fuse, NOT RELAY, (30a fuse). The circuit runs the o2 sensors, pcm, and injectors. Any short in that will cause the relay to pop. I think when I was moving the harness it shorted too much and blew the pcm. Before I took the manifold off I could put a 20a fuse in and turn the key on and it would blow instantly. Now after I repaired it, I can put a 20a fuse in and it will not blow. This leaves me to believe that the pcm is fried. Anyone else have any ideas on stuff to look for before I go and buy a new pcm? I have no signal at all to the pcm. I turn the key on and it turn the lights on the dash on like normal, but after about 5 seconds all the lights on the dash come on. I tried hooking up my sct tuner but no signal through the obd2 connection at all. Also, the fuel pump does not kick in on the 'on' cycle.
This sucks because I was about to go to the track with the new DR's and was hoping to pull 12's! DAMN IT! haha
 
Carefully check every ignition related fuse. Probably popped a different one.
 
Took the pcm out and its doing the exact same thing... I am thinking the pcm is shot
 
Not really :/ Wisconsin doesn't have a lot of srt10's here
I am buying one from a member here who is getting it flashed for me as well
 
I am in WI and have my original one, have a Mopar one in now. But the PCM's are flashed with the VIN I think so don't know that it would even work. But sounds like you got it handled.
 
mopar_mudder said:
I am in WI and have my original one, have a Mopar one in now. But the PCM's are flashed with the VIN I think so don't know that it would even work. But sounds like you got it handled.
Click to expand...

It should run fine but will set a CEL for vin mismatch.
 
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