Let's talk suspension/traction.

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Hopefully more perople will chime in. Dom is doing a ladder bar setup in his, right? Where is that homo at:dontknow:

dont know ? but his is really done nice, :rock:

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Before you buy anything try giving your caltracs 3 more full turns. Bags also help very well on the street. Also people still think I am goofy but think about going to a 3.73 gear.Just my pennies worth :marchmellow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Before you buy anything try giving your caltracs 3 more full turns. Bags also help very well on the street. Also people still think I am goofy but think about going to a 3.73 gear.Just my pennies worth :marchmellow:

Dawg you are soooo correct:rock: :rock:

this is the way I xplained it to someone jsut today on the gears, and i want to see if you agree with me

now if all you want is more umph on the street, and more burnout power, and an occasional track time once a year or so and times arent important then 4.88's is for you

but if you are a dedicated track guy that wants the very last tenth of a second, and a excellent quarter mile time, and dont worry too much about the street deal and huge burnouts,, then going to a 3.90 or 3.73 is definilty the way to go

and I still think 4.10's would be excellent in a QC, more mpg, less spinnning, and better quarter mile times

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Dawg you are soooo correct:rock: :rock:

this is the way I xplained it to someone jsut today on the gears, and i want to see if you agree with me

now if all you want is more umph on the street, and more burnout power, and an occasional track time once a year or so and times arent important then 4.88's is for you

but if you are a dedicated track guy that wants the very last tenth of a second, and a excellent quarter mile time, and dont worry too much about the street deal and huge burnouts,, then going to a 3.90 or 3.73 is definilty the way to go

and I still think 4.10's would be excellent in a QC, more mpg, less spinnning, and better quarter mile times

Your dead on the lower the HP the higher the gear the higher the HP the lower the gear. I am debating 3.55/3.73 the 3.73 because of how tall the slick I am running. But your are correct, I used to think the taller the better but when you get with the old timers of racing and listen, it is amazing the little things they know. Yes 4.10 in a QC would do it wonders.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Before you buy anything try giving your caltracs 3 more full turns. Bags also help very well on the street. Also people still think I am goofy but think about going to a 3.73 gear.Just my pennies worth :marchmellow:

Gears... now that's thinkin with your dipstick Dawgy

Some wider tires (325), gears, and a bit of weight reduction/transfer up front just might get the job done.

Something to think about for sure...

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Gears... now that's thinkin with your dipstick Dawgy

Some wider tires (325), gears, and a bit of weight reduction/transfer up front just might get the job done.

Something to think about for sure...

weight transfer will definately help. But if you lowered it, thats not gonna help. But yours isnt lowered is it? Adjustable front shocks helps. Lowering just for FYI is more for road course or highway racing imo.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

weight transfer will definately help. But if you lowered it, thats not gonna help. But yours isnt lowered is it? Adjustable front shocks helps. Lowering just for FYI is more for road course or highway racing imo.

Yeah, it's lowered... xmetal 1/2 drop.

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Yeah, it's lowered... xmetal 1/2 drop.

Thats part of your problem Now you have to make a decision between looks or hooks:marchmellow: I went with 305/45's because they fill out the wheel wells good they way they sit stock beleive it or not makes them hook good with adjustable fronts alot better, if the front end can't lift your not getting your weight transfer to the back. Heres a test I was told to do. Push down on your front bumper and see how if it bounces or just goes back right away, if that makes sense.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Thats part of your problem Now you have to make a decision between looks or hooks:marchmellow: I went with 305/45's because they fill out the wheel wells good they way they sit stock beleive it or not makes them hook good with adjustable fronts alot better, if the front end can't lift your not getting your weight transfer to the back. Heres a test I was told to do. Push down on your front bumper and see how if it bounces or just goes back right away, if that makes sense.

Ya, it makes sense. I'll definatly think about it. Can you post a pic of your truck with the 305/45s for me?

 

[FSTJACK]

A few pics of my silver truck, and that's all I will say.
It cost a lot to get this done.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Thanks Jack:rock: Where'd you get it done at?

 

[DevilDawg3097]

A few pics of my silver truck, and that's all I will say.
It cost a lot to get this done.

Mr Jack How ya been? Of course this is a real track truck:rock: Im sure you can enlighten us a little bit, Please.

 

[QuickSilver]

Yeah, it's lowered... xmetal 1/2 drop.

Do you have QA-1's on the Truck?

Quick

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Do you have QA-1's on the Truck?

Quick

No sir, I do not.

 

[FSTJACK]

For all around driveability and ride I would get a set of Caltracks from one of our vendors.

The hook is much better and the ride and handling is also improved.

If you are not going to race the truck the stock Bilstein shock is very hard to beat.

The cage & 4 link on my silver truck was done in SimiValley, CA by a company that is out of business. It uses Koni dbl adjustable coilover shocks on the back.

The inner fenderwells have been widened 5" so I can fit a larger Hoosier slick, if you look close at the picture of the bed you can see that it is no longer stock.

 

[Begood]

For all around driveability and ride I would get a set of Caltracks from one of our vendors.

The hook is much better and the ride and handling is also improved.

If you are not going to race the truck the stock Bilstein shock is very hard to beat.

The cage & 4 link on my silver truck was done in SimiValley, CA by a company that is out of business. It uses Koni dbl adjustable coilover shocks on the back.

The inner fenderwells have been widened 5" so I can fit a larger Hoosier slick, if you look close at the picture of the bed you can see that it is no longer stock.

How is the progress coming Jack?

By the way, it's good to see you post.


Bill.

 

[blackviper]

Here is what I'm doing. I'm removing the Caltracs because I had a set of custom 60 inch traction bars made. This should move the theoretical center towards the rear and provide plenty of weight transfer. I also have QA1's and air bags so I have plenty of adjustability. I'll post pics in my build thread in the upcoming weeks.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Thanks for the help/ideas guys:congrats: Looks like I"ve got some research to do

Jack, I do have Caltracs on the truck, but that's not gonna cut it. I'm looking for a bit more traction in 2nd and 3rd gear.

George, looking forward to seeing the pics:rock:

 

[pokeytemplar]

A few pics of my silver truck, and that's all I will say.
It cost a lot to get this done.

All I can say is wow. Every month or so I do searches for your posts so that I can see and read about your builds. Glad you posted those up!

 

[yellowfever#154]

For all around driveability and ride I would get a set of Caltracks from one of our vendors.

The hook is much better and the ride and handling is also improved.

If you are not going to race the truck the stock Bilstein shock is very hard to beat.

The cage & 4 link on my silver truck was done in SimiValley, CA by a company that is out of business. It uses Koni dbl adjustable coilover shocks on the back.

The inner fenderwells have been widened 5" so I can fit a larger Hoosier slick, if you look close at the picture of the bed you can see that it is no longer stock.

Jack, did you use a factory width axle or is it narrowed?