looking for a thread ??
- Thread starter Ironhead
- Start date
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
I made my own using a empty 30 lb freon canister. If you want more specifics let me know.
Blackviper George used one too!
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f8/blackviper-engine-build-32335/index105.html
post#1043 and on has some pics,theres lots more in that thread.
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f8/blackviper-engine-build-32335/index105.html
post#1043 and on has some pics,theres lots more in that thread.
Last edited:
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
It would be easier to explain with a picture but I wouldn't be able to get one until about Wednesday. So I'll try to explain my best.
There are two valves on top of the canister, low side (blue) and high side (red). Inside the canister there is a stand pipe connecting the high side to the lower portion of the canister, which is the key to making this work.
So you need to thread a air coupler onto the blue valve to be able to pressurize the tank with air. On the red valve you need a hose with a threaded end that you connect to the engine oil gallery.
Most tanks have a plug on the top that you can remove to be able to fill the tank with oil. So first fill the tank, make sure both valves are closed, connect the air line, open the blue valve pressurizing the tank, open the red valve and now the oil is pushed up the stand pipe from the bottom of the tank through the hose and into the engine. Stand close to the canister and as soon as you hear air, shut off the red valve quickly.
That's it, we use this system to pre lube engines and CVT close loop transmissions in our tractors before start up. It works great and doesnt cost anything but a hose, if you have access to the proper style canister.
There are two valves on top of the canister, low side (blue) and high side (red). Inside the canister there is a stand pipe connecting the high side to the lower portion of the canister, which is the key to making this work.
So you need to thread a air coupler onto the blue valve to be able to pressurize the tank with air. On the red valve you need a hose with a threaded end that you connect to the engine oil gallery.
Most tanks have a plug on the top that you can remove to be able to fill the tank with oil. So first fill the tank, make sure both valves are closed, connect the air line, open the blue valve pressurizing the tank, open the red valve and now the oil is pushed up the stand pipe from the bottom of the tank through the hose and into the engine. Stand close to the canister and as soon as you hear air, shut off the red valve quickly.
That's it, we use this system to pre lube engines and CVT close loop transmissions in our tractors before start up. It works great and doesnt cost anything but a hose, if you have access to the proper style canister.
Last edited:
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
That is a oil accumulator that does not pre lube a engine for first start up after a rebuild. They are meant to lube during starts (not first fire up) and for roundy round cars that may loose oil pressure in corners.
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=13600
Last edited:
Accusump post #361
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f8/blackviper-engine-build-32335/index37.html
I thaught this pre lubed before starting?
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f8/blackviper-engine-build-32335/index37.html
I thaught this pre lubed before starting?
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
Yes and no. Pre lubes after it has run to build the pressure in the accumulator. Not what Ironhead is asking for.
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
I just reread my last post and it makes no sense. Check the link I posted, it explains better than me.
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f7/pull...ng-you-want-measured-picture-8000/index6.html
#235
Had it installed for some 5 years now, no issues, only peace of mind.
#235
Had it installed for some 5 years now, no issues, only peace of mind.
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
What I described in post 5 is what you want.
Support Us
Become A Supporting Member Today!
