Lowering Blocks are ready...

Texas Yellow Fever said:
They're just stuck you have to stick a large screwdriver or something like that in there and pry them apart from the mounting perch on the axle tube.
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Ok thanks!!
 
SLH Lowering blocks

Dramsrt10

Did you have trouble getting the male end of the lowering block to slide into the rearend? I ground the hell out of everything to make them fit. Tolerences must have been off by a couple thousanths and the logos were worn off a bunch from shipping. :mad: They're in now!

They look great now that they are in. I finished them last night (this morning) so I'll post some pics. Truck has the right stance now.:rock:
 
Getting mine today. I hope I dont have tolerence issues. Something does not seem right.

Steve, anything you could add to this? Anyone else have problems?
 
Ok alright, thanks. I got all 4 U bolts off but how can I get the leaf spring break apart from the ....something....a rod that hold the brake rotor? Do you know what I am talking? I mean...I can't install the blocks because the leaf spring are in the way.
07-20-2007 03:52 PM
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yea, don't do what i did! took off nut on the center bolt on the bottom plate...that aligns and holds the spring pack together. spray some PB blaster where the pin enters the axle tube..and then smack it hard with a maul, it will pop out.;)
 
When I installed mine, to get the spring away from the rear end took a large screwdriver.

When I installed the blocks, there was a little alignment issue getting the pin to align with the rear end. Same solution, large screwdriver (prybar) to move things around a little until they started lining up, then when you lower the rear end and tighten the u_bolts, everything falls right into place (Kind of like a press fit, as you tighten the u-bolts, everything comes together). Just take your time and do a little prying to line things up. Things were tight, but nothing needed grinding of any type.

One of the best mod installs I've ever run into.
 
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The block "presses" in to there, it should be a super tight fit...
 
Lowering blocks

ccfeyh -
you were lucky then. My blocks would not slide in even when I raised the rearend up away from the springs and just tried to place them up there:confused: and hold them - wasn't going to happen. I had to grind the hell out of mine :banghead: (truck and block)to fit. Maybe an 06 problem? they're in now and they are not going anywhere. Truck looks great too.
 
Mine wouldn't "slide" in either, you wouldn't want them to just slide in, needs to be a tight fit. But when you lower the rear end back onto the block, you have to make sure the hole lines up (little prying and moving around required), from there comes the press fit, once you start tightening the u-bolts it presses the stud into the rear end.
 
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Just got mine today!!!! Thanks SLH!!!! :rock:

Now I would like to get a little better understanding of what you guys are talking about. What is getting stuck?
 
TREKER said:
Just got mine today!!!! Thanks SLH!!!! :rock:

Now I would like to get a little better understanding of what you guys are talking about. What is getting stuck?
Click to expand...

Ok, when you loosen the u-bolts and jack up the rear end, it will not seperate from the springs, so take a large screw driver and pry the rear end from the springs, continue jacking until you can get the block in there. Then slowly lower the rear end, making sure the "pin" on the block lines up with the receiving hole in the rear end, it will not just slip in and you may have to pry a little to align them (side to side or front to back). Let the rear end sit on the pin, full weight. Then start tightening the new u-bolts and the "pin" will press into the housing on the rear end.

Now, drink a brew, then repeat everything on the other side. When you're finished, sit back and admire your new look.:rock:

Take your time, it will go together like butter, took me about an hour for the entire thing.
 
tolerences

ccfeyh
that is exactly what I tried - get it started and then tighten the ubolts to press them in - no go. I would keep that in mind for anyone who is trying that, if it doesn't just pop in - start reaming. My experience may be an isolated incinent. Mine were off, and needed grinding to fit. Looking at my truck today though, I can't believe how it changed the look of the truck. It looks so much better and not like a jacked up pickup truck.:rock: I love it even more now!
 
Ok, mine gave me a little trouble, kind of like it was trying to go in crooked, back side going in faster than the front side, so I just tightened the front side until it evened out. You do have to work it a little, tighten the front, then tighten the back, then back to the front, etc.. Also a little WD40 probably helped out some too. I did that just to make it slide a little better.

You need to pull it in with the nuts as even as possible otherwise it will bind on you.

You may have just had one of those installs that sucks, but mine went fairly well.
 
ccfeyh said:
Ok, when you loosen the u-bolts and jack up the rear end, it will not seperate from the springs, so take a large screw driver and pry the rear end from the springs, continue jacking until you can get the block in there. Then slowly lower the rear end, making sure the "pin" on the block lines up with the receiving hole in the rear end, it will not just slip in and you may have to pry a little to align them (side to side or front to back). Let the rear end sit on the pin, full weight. Then start tightening the new u-bolts and the "pin" will press into the housing on the rear end.

Now, drink a brew, then repeat everything on the other side. When you're finished, sit back and admire your new look.:rock:

Take your time, it will go together like butter, took me about an hour for the entire thing.
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1. Does the spring come slapping down when it releases from the axle?
2. The pin you are talking about it the hole in the new block where it fits into?
3. After you start to lower it onto the blocks, you still have to pry it around until it seats?.
4. Is there a certain amount of torque you should go with on tightening them?
 
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Fit95 said:
ccfeyh
that is exactly what I tried - get it started and then tighten the ubolts to press them in - no go. I would keep that in mind for anyone who is trying that, if it doesn't just pop in - start reaming. My experience may be an isolated incinent. Mine were off, and needed grinding to fit. Looking at my truck today though, I can't believe how it changed the look of the truck. It looks so much better and not like a jacked up pickup truck.:rock: I love it even more now!
Click to expand...


Can you take a pic of your truck with the 1.5's That was the same size I just got today. :dontknow:
 
TREKER said:
1. Does the spring come slapping down when it releases from the axle?
2. The pin you are talking about it the hole in the new block where it fits into?
3. After you start to lower it onto the blocks, you still have to pry it around until it seats?.
4. Is there a certain amount of torque you should go with on tightening them?
Click to expand...

Here's pictures of mine installed http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=285252&postcount=139

Answers:

1. YES, be prepared and don't have something in the way. Just jack up the rear end about an inch or two, then use your screw driver to pry them apart.

2. The hole on the bottom of the block fits over the "bolt" that requires you to pry the spring loose. The pin on the top goes into the hole in the bottom of the rear end.

3. Just to get the pin aligned in the rear end, you'll feel it "drop" in and align. Now we're talking about moving the rearend not the block, when they come apart seems it doesn't want to just line back up. You could be lucky.

4. I don't remember what the tourque was, seem I remember reading somewhere that it's around 100 FTLBS, but I could be wrong.

Most important things is do one side at a time
 
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ccfeyh said:
Here's pictures of mine installed http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=285252&postcount=139

Answers:

1. YES, be prepared and don't have something in the way. Just jack up the rear end about an inch or two, then use your screw driver to pry them apart.

2. The hole on the bottom of the block fits over the "bolt" that requires you to pry the spring loose. The pin on the top goes into the hole in the bottom of the rear end.

3. Just to get the pin aligned in the rear end, you'll feel it "drop" in and align. Now we're talking about moving the rearend not the block, when they come apart seems it doesn't want to just line back up. You could be lucky.

4. I don't remember what the tourque was, seem I remember reading somewhere that it's around 100 FTLBS, but I could be wrong.

Most important things is do one side at a time
Click to expand...

1. So loosen the existing bolts on one side.
2. Take wheel off
3. Jack up the frame of the rear so the springs start to hang a bit. Then if they dont release after you jack it a bit, use the large screwdriver.
4. Take out existing spacers???
5. Install new blocks, align, lower, tighen each side evenly until it seats.
6. close it all up.

That about it?
 
Well, you don't really need to take the wheel off, but it gives you more room, I decided not to take them off.
 
TREKER said:
1. So loosen the existing bolts on one side.
2. Take wheel off
3. Jack up the frame of the rear so the springs start to hang a bit. Then if they dont release after you jack it a bit, use the large screwdriver.
4. Take out existing spacers???
5. Install new blocks, align, lower, tighen each side evenly until it seats.
6. close it all up.

That about it?
Click to expand...

You forgot the brew
 
TREKER said:
Sorry...

:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :puke: :puke: :puke: :puke:

Miss anything else?
Click to expand...

One last thing, Git 'R Dun and post some pictures :rock:
 
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