Major changes coming.for the 14 second Ram

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Well the ol girl is to the point that the vec must go
problem is with the aem if ya wire it straight and bypass the pcm, no guages or door locks work
J Reed in oregon had developed a harness for the vipers but does not seem to work on the trucks
So hopefully next week there will be a new harness and we will try it.
The freakin Aem is amazing!

But also the fuel tank is leaving and a fuel cell replacing it
just need to make up my mind about a 16 gal or 22 gal

Then maybe the rear axle deal also


maybe one of these days I can get some purty headligts!lolololo

 

[Silverback]

Well the ol girl is to the point that the vec must go
problem is with the aem if ya wire it straight and bypass the pcm, no guages or door locks work
J Reed in oregon had developed a harness for the vipers but does not seem to work on the trucks
So hopefully next week there will be a new harness and we will try it.
The freakin Aem is amazing!

But also the fuel tank is leaving and a fuel cell replacing it
just need to make up my mind about a 16 gal or 22 gal

Then maybe the rear axle deal also


maybe one of these days I can get some purty headligts!lolololo

Go for the purty headlights Stinker. They will get you into the 13's.

 

[WAZZSUP]

Get rid of the George Forman Grill for mak'n Chicken located in the bed if'n you really want to go fas-turd

 

[Sithor]

You might as well go with a 16 for a 22 is not much smaller than our 26. I know the material itself is a weight savings but just seems to be not much of a change for the money. As for the AEM I should really get a hold of my buddy Scott at Spectre Performance. He does custom ECUs for them. He started out by making Megasquirts at home.

 

[dieselgeek]

Hi - Sithor pointed me to this post. This is interesting!

Regarding the gauges, locks, etc. - what I usually do is LEAVE the factory computer in the vehicle, only disconnecting the circuits that the standalone needs to control fuel supply and ignition.

So, what you should do, is get something like Alldata where you can see what pins in the factory ECU harness drive the 10 injectors; and also how the ignition is controlled (is it COP or wasted spark? or perhaps COP+ wasted spark like on the newer hemis?)

but the idea is, to let the factory computer still have power, temp sensors, speed sensors, and tach input (cam and crank position sensors). The AEM needs to only share the tach input circuit, then it can use a standard GM temp sensor for the coolant temp (make a tee fitting from hardware store parts, and tap it into a heater hose) and intake air temp (thread it into your intake somewhere). The throttle position "output" or "sense" will be the one (out of three) that feeds into your ECM and varies between 0 and 5 volts when you open/close the throttle, share that with the factory computer also (tee into this wire without disconnecting).

Anyways, by leaving the factory computer in place all your OEM stuff will still work (ABS? airbags? power windows? OEMS are crazy with electronics these days). The AEM will just control spark and fuel, and maybe your cooling fans if you want to take over that circuit as well. There will no longer be a rev limiter.

One other trick I learned is that some later model ECUs will check resistance across the fuel injectors when started, to check for a bad injector: when you disconnect these from the dodge ECU the circuit is open, and might trigger the CEL. What you do is install a resistor that matches your injector's impedance between the OEM injector outputs and 12v, and the factory computer will be happy. Drive by wire should still even work - this is how we did it on Parish's Silverado truck and it runs like a champ with DBW.


Post up if you need further help, this sounds like a fun project,

-scott

 

[Rice Eater]

stinker why you goin to a fuel cell?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

put more weight to the rear of the truck, plus make room for a 4 link system

 

[TheSickness]

put more weight to the rear of the truck, plus make room for a 4 link system

I cant wait to see her at the Nat's Tony :rock:

 

[Blakewilder]

Lemme know about the 4-link T....Ill prolly be ridin with ya on that one.

 

[TurboFreak]

Hi - Sithor pointed me to this post. This is interesting!

Regarding the gauges, locks, etc. - what I usually do is LEAVE the factory computer in the vehicle, only disconnecting the circuits that the standalone needs to control fuel supply and ignition.

So, what you should do, is get something like Alldata where you can see what pins in the factory ECU harness drive the 10 injectors; and also how the ignition is controlled (is it COP or wasted spark? or perhaps COP+ wasted spark like on the newer hemis?)

but the idea is, to let the factory computer still have power, temp sensors, speed sensors, and tach input (cam and crank position sensors). The AEM needs to only share the tach input circuit, then it can use a standard GM temp sensor for the coolant temp (make a tee fitting from hardware store parts, and tap it into a heater hose) and intake air temp (thread it into your intake somewhere). The throttle position "output" or "sense" will be the one (out of three) that feeds into your ECM and varies between 0 and 5 volts when you open/close the throttle, share that with the factory computer also (tee into this wire without disconnecting).

Anyways, by leaving the factory computer in place all your OEM stuff will still work (ABS? airbags? power windows? OEMS are crazy with electronics these days). The AEM will just control spark and fuel, and maybe your cooling fans if you want to take over that circuit as well. There will no longer be a rev limiter.

One other trick I learned is that some later model ECUs will check resistance across the fuel injectors when started, to check for a bad injector: when you disconnect these from the dodge ECU the circuit is open, and might trigger the CEL. What you do is install a resistor that matches your injector's impedance between the OEM injector outputs and 12v, and the factory computer will be happy. Drive by wire should still even work - this is how we did it on Parish's Silverado truck and it runs like a champ with DBW.


Post up if you need further help, this sounds like a fun project,

-scott

Where are you located I need help installing a stand alone in the truck to run the turbo.

 

[1Fast400]

Sucks that AEM isn't working right. Odd since it works with the vipers. Ain't it fun being the first to do something!