Major Engine Issue...

Can get ya a stock strock engine for $10 and one good for 1500hp for $13k with the best of the best stuff, and well under 4 months
 
Stinker said:
Can get ya a stock strock engine for $10 and one good for 1500hp for $13k with the best of the best stuff, and well under 4 months
Click to expand...

Oh really. :) $13k doesn't seem bad at all, who's pricing would that be?
 
Deibs said:
Oh really. :) $13k doesn't seem bad at all, who's pricing would that be?
Click to expand...

Underground bro, he can def hook ya up, but be careful:D he is awefull good at talking ya into more:D

Kevins number is 704-361-3443 Just tell him Sawyer told ya to call, but it doesnt take long for them to get the engines, and its the same ones they use in all their big hp cars, stroked 522, pistons, rods, billet mains, any cam ya want, if I remember correctly. Now I do not know if it includes heads or not, but some sweet talkin to him goes along way bro, he is good people:rock:
 
Stinker said:
Underground bro, he can def hook ya up, but be careful:D he is awefull good at talking ya into more:D

Kevins number is 704-361-3443 Just tell him Sawyer told ya to call, but it doesnt take long for them to get the engines, and its the same ones they use in all their big hp cars, stroked 522, pistons, rods, billet mains, any cam ya want, if I remember correctly. Now I do not know if it includes heads or not, but some sweet talkin to him goes along way bro, he is good people:rock:
Click to expand...

Same with Taliban Dan and he will be at the Nats to talk to...

He wants to see Stinker do plug wires without taking off the I.M.
 
Stinker said:
Underground bro, he can def hook ya up, but be careful:D he is awefull good at talking ya into more:D

Kevins number is 704-361-3443 Just tell him Sawyer told ya to call, but it doesnt take long for them to get the engines, and its the same ones they use in all their big hp cars, stroked 522, pistons, rods, billet mains, any cam ya want, if I remember correctly. Now I do not know if it includes heads or not, but some sweet talkin to him goes along way bro, he is good people:rock:
Click to expand...


That is a deal...even without heads.......
 
Silverback said:
To minimize damage do not run it any longer, or you may run the risk of destroying the block.

Since you have a goal HP wise that you want to acheive, build it with that mind. Otherwise you will just end up doing it again, and the majority of the money you spend on the first rebuild will be down the drain.

From what I have seen time wise, if you start now you may have it ready to run in the spring. Seems to take a while to rebuild these beasts unless you are planning on doing a lot of the work yourself.

Good luck and keep us informed on how it goes. I know a lot of folks will want to know specifically what happened to it also.
Click to expand...

Werd......

Sucks, bro....... Sorry....:mad: :(

D
 
Rice Eater said:
Let me know if you want to sell the ROE blower!!
Click to expand...


No Roe TSTM on wingless trucks!

But it does not sound as bad as you initially thought.

Go thru the diagnosis, you may be surprised...just does not sound like a major failure to me.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Last edited:
Deibs said:
Well yesterday was my worst day during my short ownership of this truck...

I was on my home from camping and i was all but 5 min away from my house when the truck decided to take a :toilet: As far as me and my dad could figure it sounded like a pushrod. The #7 piston has just the worst banging going on. I'm not even sure as to how to describe it sound wise properly.. kind of like the usual injector noise but a lot louder and a lot more metal banging together.. :(

I did have a few questions on this issue as i need some direction. My plan was going to be in this order.. Drop Kit/Air Bags/Traction -- Tranny/Rear End -- Engine Build. With the Engine coming in a years time and the other two being done this winter while the snow flies.

So now with the rods failing am i going to be price wise deep enough to justify pulling the engine now and forging the internals.. take into account that i'm looking at a full build as my goal in the end is to be upwards of 900 to 1000 rwhp. I'm not too sure at the price of this job (to fix the pushrods),, or if this is all it will need.. the truck did still run without any misses, it just had the terrible knock!!

This just plain out and out sucks............ i had the stupid thing planned out and was trying to take it easy with my tune and boost so that i could keep everything in order, oh well :dontknow:
Click to expand...
Ebay! they got low mile complete set-ups for about 7k us- less if you just want the engine.
good luck
 
RUFROZN said:
Ebay! they got low mile complete set-ups for about 7k us- less if you just want the engine.
good luck
Click to expand...
:D one blown motor is enough. I'd have to see a total history report on the engine and who built it before i'd think about purchasing it.

If i could send it to underground and have it done for 13K US it wouldn't be too bad,, i had initially got quoted 30K CAN locally but thought that i could get it for 20K CAN if i was to send it to the states -- that would be my end price with shipping/conversion and any extras.
 
Well i finally got some time to take the Valve covers off and i was hoping someone could give me some insight.. it would be appreciated soooo much!!

It looks to be fine on the passenger side unlike i previously thought... BUT looking at the drivers side, Cylinder 1 doesn't look to be right see picture below. You can view the sets of pictures to see more.

Passenger side pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10302151@N07/sets/72157601399663205/

Driver side pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10302151@N07/sets/72157601393331596/

Here is the picture i am talking about with Cylinder 1 having 1 spring compressed. Any thoughts???????? :dontknow:

1097359078_0dd9692b31_b.jpg


 
I took the passenger side off and then took pictures,, then i put it back together and started it,, took a quick video and then took the drivers side apart.
 
If any of your pushrods were bent enough to knock you should have been able to feel the rocker arm loose. Did you give them a feel and see if they were all tight?

Also, did you check all of your spark plugs to see how they looked?
 
So how did it sound with the #7 spark plug pulled?
 
Yeah the rockers were all tight.. so i think it's something else.

As for sound i'm working on it.. i just need to convert the file.. it's in 3g2 from my cell phone. Be 5 min.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Random Media

918791216 1 smaller
2255.jpg
red led corner lights led hood scoop and led fog light
At the park
Back
Top