My engine blew up. :mad:

I do not think that replacing a single piston is a realistic option. If a ring or rings are gone even on one piston or a part to the piston is gone...I would go through the entire engine. The chances of dusting a $19k engine is huge if you don't pull it down completely. But once you pull it down entirely...you might find some financial reason to just replace the piston that is a problem.

But if that is your direction, build it to trade, not to drive.

Without the financial pressure the wise way to go, once you tear it down, is to go with forged pistons, and rods as a minimum.

If you just replace the one piston...trade that machine to a dealer and let us all know the VIN...and start with a new truck. I am suspicious that you will find that the problem hole is the same one that you found the damaged spark plug. As you will recall, I recommended then, that you go directly to a dealership and trade the truck on a new one...
 
First of all thanks everyone for the advice. So here is what I'm thinking. Strip it down and get it all cleaned up. Forged pistons (all of them) and put it back together. With the forged pistons I should be able to run a little higher boost. Around 8psi or so. We are going to send off my waste-gates back to STS and see what the issue is with them and also relocate the boost reference for the waste-gates. Then add the meth on-top for a little added protection.

Discuss.
 
Whats to discuss? still aint right, the wastegate isnt the problem, you have to have a controller, a three pound spring is capable of 6 pound spikes or more, a 5 pound spring 10 or more an so on.

and i am wondering are you gonna replace the rod the piston was on?

there is possibility of damage to the rod also, might me minor but worth having checked.
 
Rods are an extra $2500.00. I was planning on using the stock rods if they aren't damaged. Just don't know if it is worth the extra cost to change the rods. Are the rods and pistons the weakest things on the engine?
 
Sleeper is asking the right question...if you are going to pull the engine down you will pull the rods...they are the second weakest part of the engine as it is designed. Highly recommend if you take the rods off, don't put them back on.

Spend the money to put in forged rods and forged pistons if you tear it down. Or glue it together and trade it in...
 
i cant believe you are going to put the STS back on. Sorry but I think thats just plain stupid. I would sell it and get a roe or just build a N/A motor and get the same power to the ground
 
have you made the effort to call around and get prices on rods, or just takin the first price you were offered?

I got my oliver rods and wiesco pistons for $2500, pistons and rods are not that bad if you do your homework...........
 
I forget what year the motor is in your truck but I was told that the connecting rods in the '03 Viper motors were the strongest of the Gen III motors. When I did my tuning and making 700+ rwhp at PBJ my first worry was the strength of the connecting rods...even though they were the strongest stock ones of the Gen III motors. It was in the back of my mind...how long will they hold out.

My second concern and something I nor the tuner thought about was the stock injectors. I maxed them out power wise and we didnt have time to get higher performing ones (flow rate I think is the term) in time before I had to head home.

Like others have said, rods and pistons are the weak links. Of course, if you do those and the motor is already apart might as well upgrade other things. You dont want to be doing this again. You may want to think about upping the injectors while you are at it.
 
Stinker said:
have you made the effort to call around and get prices on rods, or just takin the first price you were offered?

I got my oliver rods and wiesco pistons for $2500, pistons and rods are not that bad if you do your homework...........
Click to expand...


That is what I was first offered. 1100 for pistons and rings plus 2500 for rods (3600 total). I don't even know where to shop for the things that I need so I'm kinda of flying blind on this one. I don't how many different type of pistons are out there nor where to shop. Same for the Rods.
 
Dave T(BADVENM) said:
I forget what year the motor is in your truck but I was told that the connecting rods in the '03 Viper motors were the strongest of the Gen III motors. When I did my tuning and making 700+ rwhp at PBJ my first worry was the strength of the connecting rods...even though they were the strongest stock ones of the Gen III motors. It was in the back of my mind...how long will they hold out.

My second concern and something I nor the tuner thought about was the stock injectors. I maxed them out power wise and we didnt have time to get higher performing ones (flow rate I think is the term) in time before I had to head home.

Like others have said, rods and pistons are the weak links. Of course, if you do those and the motor is already apart might as well upgrade other things. You dont want to be doing this again. You may want to think about upping the injectors while you are at it.
Click to expand...


Mine is an 05. Built Sept 04. I already have larger injectors, the meth kit and the SCT. Plus the VEC 3 in my garage that I plan on selling.
 
Smoke I am not trying to cause you to spend $, I know what people sometimes say about my advice on the other end of the phone:D

I jsut dont want to see you make a mistake, as I did, as others have,,,

if you gonna do it , do the rods and pistons at the very minimal, make some calls, you can find deals, I am surprised Marty isnt giving you cost on parts if nothing else but to help you out? it did go on his dyno:dontknow:

but thats his choice

but bro, if you cant afford it, go back stock, but either way keep the boost down to a safe level,,, jsut because you have rods and pistons still dont make it bullet proof, Hilgee said it best:rock:

but please at least invest in a controller, it is a must on a turbo, ;)
 
stick said:
i cant believe you are going to put the STS back on. Sorry but I think thats just plain stupid. I would sell it and get a roe or just build a N/A motor and get the same power to the ground
Click to expand...


Maybe, I haven't made a final decision. The engine lasted almost 3 years, 15 or so 1/4 mile runs at the strip and countless red light racing. If I try to sell the truck then I know I'm going to lose money. That is just the money for the truck not counting mods. I know, I know, no money to be made on the mods. But the resale on this trucks suck.
 
Stinker said:
Smoke I am not trying to cause you to spend $, I know what people sometimes say about my advice on the other end of the phone:D

I jsut dont want to see you make a mistake, as I did, as others have,,,

if you gonna do it , do the rods and pistons at the very minimal, make some calls, you can find deals, I am surprised Marty isnt giving you cost on parts if nothing else but to help you out? it did go on his dyno:dontknow:

but thats his choice

but bro, if you cant afford it, go back stock, but either way keep the boost down to a safe level,,, jsut because you have rods and pistons still dont make it bullet proof, Hilgee said it best:rock:

but please at least invest in a controller, it is a must on a turbo, ;)
Click to expand...


I know you are not asking me to spend money. I just trying to see what all my options are. People like you have already been there and done that with the parts. I'm not saying that I can't afford to do rods and pistons, just trying to weigh the options on what has to be done, what should be done, and what can be done. Got a recommendation on what type of rods and pistons to go with and from where?
 
you can turn your crank down .020 and run chevy rods. I paid 900.00 for my eagles
 
Smoke if Marty is going to do the work...speak with him about the parts. I would hate to go against his ideas if he is doing the work...give him a ball part budget after you have an idea of what you are willing to spend and ask him to come as close to your budget as he can and still feel confident that you are doing the right thing.

Your closest adviser needs to be the person you trust to do the work.
 
Stinker said:
Smoke I am not trying to cause you to spend $, I know what people sometimes say about my advice on the other end of the phone:D

I jsut dont want to see you make a mistake, as I did, as others have,,,

if you gonna do it , do the rods and pistons at the very minimal, make some calls, you can find deals, I am surprised Marty isnt giving you cost on parts if nothing else but to help you out? it did go on his dyno:dontknow:

but thats his choice

but bro, if you cant afford it, go back stock, but either way keep the boost down to a safe level,,, jsut because you have rods and pistons still dont make it bullet proof, Hilgee said it best:rock:

but please at least invest in a controller, it is a must on a turbo, ;)
Click to expand...

Ha, my truck let go when Woodhouse had it on their dyno and I paid for everything. They also quoted me a price and then when its time to pick up the truck added another thousand bucks or two that I wasnt told about prior. A$$holes!
 
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