need advice on n.o.s system

so from the sounds of it the stock fuel system can only supply enough fuel for a 100 shot max??? I thought someone on here was running a 150 shot on stock timing and stock fuel system.
 
Ok this is all very cool, and I am learning here.......... but can Gary or Mike or somebody explain what the difference is between a wet system and a dry system?

thanks patrick
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
Ok this is all very cool, and I am learning here.......... but can Gary or Mike or somebody explain what the difference is between a wet system and a dry system?

thanks patrick
Click to expand...

I got ya there Patrick. A dry system is where you only have one solenoid, which allows the NO2 through. In that type of system you are allowing your fuel mixture coming from your stock fuel system to mix with the nitrous and prevent detonation. That is why you need a wet system if you plan to run over 100 hp. In a wet application, you have a second solenoid, which controls an added amount of fuel that gets sprayed in at the same time as the nitrous. Usually this wet system is used in conjunction with a completely seperate secondary fuel pump. Some hardcore street/strip systems even use a second fuel source(tank) to allow mixing in racing gas only when the nitrous is used, thereby allowing you to drive on pump gas kept in your main fuel tank. When you hit the button, the extra fuel going in raises the octane, because it is coming from a seperate tank full of race gas. Hope this answers your questions. Let me know if I confused you with any of that.

Greg
 
So basically if your shooting more than a 100 shot, because of the volume of NOS, you need to have it mix properly hence the second solonoid, fuel pump etc.....

So then there would be no need for a wet system under a 100 shot?

Thanks Greg, appreciate the "splaining".

Are you driving down to LA this weekend or flying?

patrick
 
Funny, its wed night and I have no idea whether I am going for sure or not. If I do go, I will be driving my truck. Just sooo damn busy here. The girlfriend is opening a hair salon in two weeks and I am doing all of the remodeling work, in addition to keeping my company running at the same time. I am busy as shit and have no extra money right now as it is all going to the new shop, supplies, materials, etc. I will try to make it, but it will most likely be a friday afternoon decision.

Greg
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
So then there would be no need for a wet system under a 100 shot?
Click to expand...

Personally Patrick, I would go with a wet system on my truck no matter what the size shot I am using. Just cheap insurance. Spend a couple hundred bucks more and do the system right and you won't have to worry about rebuilding your motor before its time. These motors are too damned expensive to be screwing around with a dry system IMHO.

Greg
 
also, it wasn't really mentioned exactly but with a dry system you have to use a fuel pressure riser (it goes after the fuel pressure regulator) which will raise the fuel pressure up to over 75 psi when the NOS hits. since stock fuel pressure is around 40-45 psi for most cars, raising the fuel pressure adds enough fuel to suppor the NOS. however, on a vehicle with a 500 hp stock motor the fuel system is not capable of pushing double the fuel. it's got it's work cut out for it just running the stock motor. a wet kit (IMO) should be used in any NOS system. also, as gary brushed over before, if you hit the rev limiter while running NOS you will more than likely blow the motor. the rev limitor works by shutting off the fuel injectors, so guess what happens when you lose most of your fuel but keep spraying NOS and fuel? you get a really lean condition and not only is it lean it's got the NOS there to make it burn really hot. if you install NOS, make sure to wire it up to shut off when the clutch is pushed in just to be safe during shifts. and also wire up an RPM switch to shut it off a few hundred rpm before redline. it's probably less important on the automatics, but as soon as 2nd gear starts to slip like mine does with only DC's chip, you'll start hitting the rev limiter when it tries to shift to 2nd.

it may be a pain, but spraying nos by hand is also a safe way to go. all the switches and sensors are still succeptable to failure.

good luck! and boomer, save a kit for me after I get my tranny back for a 3rd attempt at lasting more than 2000 miles :D
 
I agree w/ all the comments made on this thread. Go Wet no matter what shot you plan to do! So the question still remains.....what is the biggest shot on a wet system the stock fuel system is capeable of supporting when you tap the fuel rail for the fuel source where the stock schrader valve was??

Is the stock fuel system really that maxed out just trying to keep the big V-10 running w/ out much room for additional capacity?
 
Ohhhh Yeahhh......and why is it not good to spray in 1st gear? Is there just no way the truck will hook up w/ that much add power in a torquey 1st gear?
 
Do these intakes have a tendency to pool up like other intakes when spraying a wet kit?
 
BOOMER said:
there are several things you need to have a complete 100% nitrous system for your truck that dont come in the pre=package kits.
the off the self stuff is just to get your feet wet, but there are dangers to just using what comes in the kit.
they come with cheesy toggle switches, and no exact application instructions or the correct length lines for the SRT to plumb it with
-the kits come with a tps or wot switch. you dont want to spray in first gear, or you need to manuely spray it, thats a PIA. also this method doesnt provide for over rev from a missed shift or tire spin. an over rev-hitting the rev limiter while spraying can be very very bad.
to eliminate that, and spray after first gear only at WOT starting at a programed rpm, and ending at a programmed rpm , you need a programable window switch.
- the kits dont include a pressure gauge for the bottle, so you dont know when you low, or at what pressure. or a purge kit.
it all depends what you want from a system and how accurate, and convient you want it to be as well as a safety precautions.
since we have been installing NOS on the SRT's we have found that the ZEX system is good, the solenoids from NX are more accurate, durable and a 1/3 of the weight of the other companies'.
we now have a complete bolt on kit that includes the everything from a remote bottle opener, bottle heater and maintainer, programable window/tps/rpm controller that has a first gear lockout -you program what rpm you want the nos to kick in and what rpm to turn off-and can control 2 stages of nitrous if so desired to upgrade later, all the corect length lines, wires, complete instructions, and pictures of the install for your exact application. a direct bolt on kit for the SRT.
we will have a price on the complete package etc, next week when i get back from california.
:burnout:
Click to expand...

Boomer

I've been trying to find the follow up link to this post regarding pricing....

Do you have this NOS system available for purchase now?
Cost?

Thanks
 
SWIFT said:
Do these intakes have a tendency to pool up like other intakes when spraying a wet kit?
Click to expand...

I know what you are talking about......after spraying and then popping the hood you can smell gasoline pooled up in the air intake tube...happens to my friend on his new stang. I have the KN air charger and have never experienced that smell after a run.

Brat....you still looking at a kit? Or settle on the flash?
 
i think that i have setteled on the flash,and a k&n cai.dont really want to push the tranny with a nos system,dont really know if it would hold up.
 
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