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STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEED CLUTCH
To determine if the master cylinder assembly
requires bleeding or if the complete system requires
bleeding:
(1) Uncouple the clutch master cylinder line from
the clutch slave cylinder with quick Disconnect Tool
6638.
(2) Slowly depress the clutch pedal.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force as this will
cause the uncoupled male coupling to blow out.
(3) If the pedal feels hard in a relatively short distance,
air is present in the clutch slave cylinder.
(4) If the pedal feels spongy air is present in the
master cylinder assembly.
LINKAGE BLEED
(1) Remove the reservoir cap taking care not to
damage the diaphragm (Fig. 1). If fluid level is not
up to the step in the reservoir add D.O.T. 4 brake
fluid.
CAUTION: Use only D.O.T. 4 compatible brake fluid.
Other than D.O.T 4 will cause system malfunction.
(2) Slowly depressing the clutch pedal while opening
the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw (Fig. 2).
(3) Holding down the clutch pedal and tighten
bleed screw to 15-20 N·m (11-14 ft. lbs.).
(4) Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 two times then check
fluid level in reservoir.
(5) Pump clutch pedal rapidly a minimum of 10
times. If clutch pedal still feels spongy, repeat Step 2
through Step 5.
MASTER CYLINDER BLEED
(1) Uncouple the master cylinder line from the
clutch slave cylinder, with quick Disconnect Tool
6638.
(2) Remove the reservoir cap taking care not to
damage the diaphragm. If the fluid level is not up to
the step in the reservoir, add D.O.T. 4 brake fluid.
CAUTION: Use only D.O.T. 4 compatible brake fluid.
Other than D.O.T 4 will cause system malfunction.
(3) Open the male quick connect coupling by
depressing the poppet in the coupling while depress
the clutch pedal to the floor.
(4) Close the quick connect coupling by releasing
the poppet while holding the clutch pedal to the floor.
(5) Release the pedal.
(6) Repeat Step 3 through Step 5 two more times
and check fluid level.
(7) Couple system back together. Then pump
clutch pedal rapidly a minimum of 10 times.
(8) If clutch pedal still feels spongy repeat Step 3
through Step 7.
Fig. 1 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RESERVOIR
1 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RESERVOIR
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
4 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
5 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH LINE
Fig. 2 RELEASE BEARING/HYDRAULIC SLAVE
CYLINDER
1 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RELEASE
2 - BLEED SCREW
3 - TRANSMISSION
DR CLUTCH - SRT-10 6 - 5
CLUTCH - SRT-10 (Continued)
SPECIFICATIONS
CLUTCH - SRT-10
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Clutch Bleed Screw 18 - 156
Clutch Cover Bolts 30 22 270
Clutch Release Bearing 22 - 200
Flywheel Bolts 74 55 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove clutch
housing from engine (Fig. 3).
(3) Mark pressure plate and flywheel to maintain
their position when installing clutch assembly.
(4) Insert Clutch Disc Aligning Tool through the
clutch disc hub to prevent the clutch disc from falling
and damaging the facings.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts (Fig. 4) one or two
turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern. This will
release spring pressure evenly and avoid clutch cover
damage.
(6) Remove pressure plate assembly and disc.
CLEANING
Clean flywheel face with crocus cloth or 400-600
grade sandpaper, then wipe the surface with mineral
spirits. If the surface is severely scored, heat checked
or warped, replace the flywheel.
CAUTION: Never machine the flywheel face. If flywheel
surface is bad the flywheel must be replaced.
Wipe the friction surface of the pressure plate with
mineral spirits.
LINE DISCONNECT TOOL 6638
Fig. 3 CLUTCH HOUSING
1 - CLUTCH DISC
2 - PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
Fig. 4 PRESSURE PLATE
1 - PLATE
2 - BOLTS
6 - 6 CLUTCH - SRT-10 DR
CLUTCH - SRT-10 (Continued)
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If clutch disc is marked flywheel side (Fig. 5)
(1) Mount clutch assembly on flywheel, being careful
to properly align dowels and alignment marks
made before removal. If new clutch or flywheel is
installed, align cover balance spot as close as possible
to flywheel balance orange spot. Apply pressure to
the alignment tool. Lightly tighten the clutch cover
bolts enough to hold the disc in position.
(2) Tighten pressure plate bolts a few turns at a
time in a crisscross pattern until bolts are all seated.
Then tighten bolts sequence (Fig. 6) to 30 N·m (270
in. lbs.). Remove clutch disc alignment tool.
(3) Install bellhousing on engine.
(4) Install transmission.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The bearing and slave cylinder are serviced
together as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate
the bearing from the slave cylinder.
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Disconnect hydraulic line from hydraulic slave
cylinder with Line Disconnect Tool 6638/6638A.
(3) Remove transmission.
(4) Remove slave cylinder bolts (Fig. 7) and
remove cylinder.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install slave cylinder onto transmission and
tighten bolts to 22 N·m (200 in. lbs.).
(2) Install transmission assembly.
(3) Connect hydraulic line to slave cylinder.
(4) Bleed the system.
Fig. 5 CLUTCH DISC
Fig. 6 TORQUE SEQUENCE
Fig. 7 RELEASE BEARING/HYDRAULIC SLAVE
CYLINDER
1 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RELEASE
2 - BLEED SCREW
3 - TRANSMISSION
DR CLUTCH - SRT-10 6 - 7
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
FLYWHEEL
Common causes of flywheel problems:
² Incorrect bolt tightening
² Mounting the flywheel on a dirty crankshaft
flange
² Improper seating on the crankshaft flange shoulder
² Heat warpage
² Loose flywheel to crankshaft bolts
The flywheel should be replaced if warped or overheated.
Do not machine the face of the flywheel
to correct a warped or overheated condition.
Clean the crankshaft flange and its mating surface
on the flywheel before assembling. dirt/grease in this
area could cause the flywheel to mis-align when
installing.
Use new bolts when mounting flywheel and secure
the bolts with Mopar Lock and Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over
tightening can distort the flywheel causing run out.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch housing.
(3) Remove clutch assembly (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean flywheel bolts and apply thread sealer.
(2) Install flywheel on engine and install flywheel
bolts.
(3) Tighten flywheel bolts to 74 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch assembly.
(5) Install clutch housing and transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission assembly from the vehicle.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch disc (Fig. 9).
(3) Remove pilot bearing with an internal puller
and slide hammer to remove.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the new bearing with Mopar high
temperature wheel bearing grease.
(2) Insert the new bearing into the engine crankshaft
by hand or with a clutch alignment tool.
(3) Install the clutch disc and pressure plate.
(4) Install transmission assembly..
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick disconnect
at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove heat sheild over hydraulic line.
Fig. 8 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE
Fig. 9 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE
6 - 8 CLUTCH - SRT-10 DR
(3) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 10).
(4) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(5) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
(6) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 11).
(9) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(10) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(11) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(12) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and connecting
lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehicle
engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N·m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) If new clutch linkage is being installed, connect
the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is connected
to the slave cylinder, it should never be disconnected.
(12) Install heat sheild over hydraulic line.
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
Fig. 10 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 11 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
DR CLUTCH - SRT-10 6 - 9
LINKAGE (Continued)
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position switch (CPPS) is mounted
on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig. 12). The
wiring harness connector is inside of the vehicle
under the left side of the instrument panel.
NOTE: Switch is serviced with clutch master cylinder.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to
either shut down/prevent operation of the speed control
system when pedal is depressed. The position
switch is an integral part of the clutch master cylinder
push rod.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
(1) Disconnect switch 2-wire connector attached to
pedal support bracket, under instrument panel to left
of clutch pedal (Fig. 13).
(2) Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
² Pedal Depressed - Continuity
² Pedal Released - No Continuity
(3) If continuity is not present or always present,
replace clutch master cylinder. Switch is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 12 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 13 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
6 - 10 CLUTCH - SRT-10 DR
