You can do a quick search and get some good info. After nearly 80K miles I've had the opportunity to try different combinations and found what Zeckhausen offers to be the best all around. At the very least have your rotor's turned then add good quality pads.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/
Here is a previous post of mine. Zeckhausen recommends the same break in procedure.
Since there's been quite a bit of discussion about this subject and the fact I just had my rotors turned and new brake pads I spoke with a buddy of mine here in Phoenix who happens to be a brake engineer for Toyota. There was another question about cryogenic rotors on another board that we both participate on and thought I'd share his post.....
+++++++++++++++++++++++
A while back, Clarkie asked me if the cryogenic rotors were worth it? Today...many, many months later, I have the answer. I am stuck in Dallas at a multi-day brake engineer conference and I co-chaired a session called "testing". The bad is that I am surrounded by a crowd that is...well...a little dull. The good is that anything you want to know about brakes (research, advanced tech, etc.) can be answered.
Anyway, I had a conversation with a peer from a performance race and aftermarket street brake kit company. Since our conversation was opinion only and not 'official', I'm going to leave it at that. That said, I trust the judgment of this guy and his company is on the leading edge of performance brake development.
"Is the cryogenic treatment for street rotors worth it?"
In his response, he stated that in one an only one case in his life was the answer yes. It was providing rotors to a factory sponsored race team to solve an initial difference in feel/fade during break-in. That's it.
Cryogenic treatment's main function is to avoid rotor cracking in a post manufacturing treatment.
PURPOSE FOR POSTING THIS:
This can be done just as effectively by a proper break-in of BOTH the rotor and pad pair. Yes - a rotor needs break-in too. His recommendation is to do a 10-stop series of brake applies of high decel (0.8g) back to back until you get to 10 from a speed of 60 to 5-10mph. Allow for cooling then do it one more time. Racers may want to kick up the speed to 80mph for the applies (even those in the Supertwins ).
You will likely get some green fade during the first ten stops somewhere in the 5-7 stop area - this is good. The next series fade will almost surely be later in the ten stops if at all. A third time is not necessary.
NOTE: it is very important that you do not come to a stop, even for a moment. The pads will be sticky enough to leave an imprint of the pad shape on the rotor and an uneven transfer layer.
This does mainly two things: prepare the pads by de-gassing the phenolics out of the pad material (the fade effect by the gas actually pushing back on the pad as it escapes beteen the pad and rotor), and preparing the rotors with a transfer layer.
In this guy's mind, this is by far the best thing you can do for your new pads and rotors...including saving your cash by not paying for your premium priced cryogenic rotors.
If you put new pads on current rotors (very common), you can lightly/evenly sand the rotor surfaces with fine grit sand-paper to remove the old transfer layer. Then proceed with the break-in above. This would apply to carbon-mets, ceramics, and any organic pads that rely on a transfer layer.
The result should be a dramatic reduction in fade and the likelihood for heat cracks.
Hope this helps
)
