New cam

[Nucdancer01]

When you guys have swapped cams was it necessary (recommended-I know) to replace valve springs, and was head machine work required?

If it's a cam swap, doesn't seem too terribly difficult. If I've got to pull/disassemble heads and have machine work done, that's a different story...

 

[caveman]

Some don't pull the heads when swapping the cam. Others recommend pulling the heads, as per the factory tech manual.

 

[brye stanton]

yes, you have to swap the spring out if cam is high lift. you need extra strength to snap valves shut at higher rpms. pushrods too because of flexing

 

[brye stanton]

The whole object of a cam is to allow the engine to breathe. If you don't do everything to achieve that the cam wont do what it is supposed to do. I am going through this too as we speak....i'm wanting the 710 cam from roe. I'm trying to find a way to ditch the connecting rods, but achieve a reasonable hp.

 

[VPRPWRD]

If I were doing it, I would replace cam, stronger springs, stronger push rods and I'd pull the heads and put 8.4L head gaskets in for a slight compression bump. Some would suggest lifters also, in our application I don't believe it is a necessity.

 

[BlackMamba50]

You might consider getting head work done while you have the top end apart. Couple of us have broken stock valve springs and bent stock pushrods with a stock cam. You will need to upgrade the springs with a bigger cam. Thicker pushrods allow for better valve train rigidity. As suggested by others, get the thinner head gasket for bumped up compression.

 

[Nucdancer01]

I'm looking at a new, but older design cam. It's gonna be a good price.

The truck is a daily driver. I have another work truck, I just really enjoy driving this one so my other just sits..

If it's only gonna be price of a gasket kit, oil, and necessities, plus a couple of weekends of wrench time, I'm thinking about doing it.

Long term will be a Procharger, I think. I'm just looking at playing around a little right now. Little different sound, some more bottom end torque maybe.

I'm not interested in spending $1500-2000 just for a cam swap now, only to spend $7k on a Procharger, plus all of the extras for that, when I get the money saved up...

 

[Nucdancer01]

Plus a tune, but that's already planned..

 

[BigRed460]

To do it right your going to need ro pull the heads, but it's not that hard.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

You don't have to remove heads nor machine them. The correct valve spring for the particular cam should be used. Lifters aren't necessity either. To degree cam you'll need an adjustable timing chain.
Otherwise good to go :rock:

 

[JMB Justin]

I would HIGHLY recommend getting the correct cam over saving a couple hundred bucks on an old design, you are talking about probably a 20-40whp difference in power, why go through the aggravation to do the job and leave that much on the table. The heads/intake do not have to come off, you have to pull/drop the pan, front cover, and valve covers. Having the correct tools helps a ton of course. My cam kit with all the parts needed for install is $1300 plus shipping, includes cam/springs/locators/pushrods/valve seals.
Justin