"Nitrous" will this work???

The Itch

The Itch

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Can you run the switches through the ground instead of the Hot lead with a relay set up? :dontknow: If not, why?:dontknow:
This isn't for the truck ~but~ the trucks system goes in next... :D

PS... I won't be doing it this way in the 10...:p

switchsonground.jpg
 
the way you have that system wired out the systems relay is basically armed at all times if you have the yellow wire pinned to a "hot" and not a "ignition switched". there will always be 12 volts on the system and more in particular the relay will always be armed, this will draw off your battery and will kill it with a slow draw. if anything I would put the switch on the 86 or 85.
why the two switches?
 
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mr. anderson said:
the way you have that system wired out the systems relay is basically armed at all times if you have the yellow wire pinned to a "hot" and not a "ignition switched". there will always be 12 volts on the system and more in particular the relay will always be armed, this will draw off your battery and will kill it with a slow draw. if anything I would put the switch on the 86 or 85 that way the relay is only.
why the two switches?
Click to expand...


Ditto, you need a master arm switch for the relay on 86....then you should be able to use 2 switches the way you want for activation.
 
Last edited:
mr. anderson said:
the way you have that system wired out the systems relay is basically armed at all times if you have the yellow wire pinned to a "hot" and not a "ignition switched". there will always be 12 volts on the system and more in particular the relay will always be armed, this will draw off your battery and will kill it with a slow draw. if anything I would put the switch on the 86 or 85 that way the relay is only.
why the two switches?
Click to expand...

One is the purge.
Running it this way I was using one relay for both~and~ in my TA the LESS wires I add, the better.
If I tap an accessory line with 86 then it will be armed with the key and won't draw off the battery right?:dontknow:
 
Itch, yes if you run it on acc power then yes it will only be armed when in that position. I don't recommend a nitrous system without a shut-off, even on a track vehicle.

is your t/a a M6? also what shot running? I assume something under a 125 dry shot if the T/A is near stock internals?
 
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mr. anderson said:
Itch, yes if you run it on acc power then yes it will only be armed when in that position. I don't recommend a nitrous system without a shut-off, even on a track vehicle.

is your t/a a M6? also what shot running? I assume something under a 125 dry shot if the T/A is near stock internals?
Click to expand...

I do have a WOT and toggle switch on the GROUND side of the solenoid. So it cannot activate until both of those AND the key are switched on.

I'm going to run a 100 dry shot (not very often)...:D
This car is my lover not fighter...;)
 
It will not work. You need a relay for each circuit. You can mount the relays side by side and use short wires connecting 30 and 85 from one relay to the other to save running 2 wires.

30 = Power, preferably switched
87 = Solenoid or item needing power
85 = Power, preferably switched
86 = Switch to ground

Wire each circuit this way and you can have your switches on the ground side.
 
Nevermind about my last post. I looked at your picture again and realized that you are switching the ground side of the solenoids. Your diagram will work, but like the others said use switched power.

The only thing I dont like about your way is that you are going to extend the wires from the negative side of the solenoids back into the cab to the switch and then to ground. This makes more work IMO.

I would ground the solenoids directly to the engine block and wire it my way and then switch the ground side of the relay instead. Cleaner wiring.
 
in all seriousness why do you need relays? relays are for high amp draw applications ie. starters, fans, lights, not low amperage like selnoids. they only draw .6 amps so technically you would not need selnoids and it would be a lot less wires and mess.
 
perk_1405 said:
in all seriousness why do you need relays? relays are for high amp draw applications ie. starters, fans, lights, not low amperage like selnoids. they only draw .6 amps so technically you would not need selnoids and it would be a lot less wires and mess.
Click to expand...

Hey if I don't need the relay I'll yank it out. I thought it protected the solenoids...
 
Nitrous relays draw alot more the .6amps! You need relays, keep the wiring simple. Typically a purge solenoid doesnt use a relay, just make sure the switch you are using to activate it can handle 5 amps or so and the wiring is 14g or bigger. Your schematic should work fine, its just different than most (including me) would do it.
Justin
 
JMB Justin said:
Nitrous relays draw alot more the .6amps! You need relays, keep the wiring simple. Typically a purge solenoid doesnt use a relay, just make sure the switch you are using to activate it can handle 5 amps or so and the wiring is 14g or bigger. Your schematic should work fine, its just different than most (including me) would do it.
Justin
Click to expand...

Thanks Justin and the rest of you... :rock:

The location of my Line Lock was also part of the consideration during the design and install of the N02.
With this set up I only ran 3 wires into the cockpit through switches and then to ground.
If you've ever worked on an LS1 Firebird, you might understand the reason for thinking "out of the box" and doing it this way. Because of the (FRIGGN) tight spaces and location of available power (mostly under the hood) it just made more sense (to me) to do it this way. :dontknow: I don't like stringing wire all over the place or splicing if I don't have to.;)

The truck (getting a NX 100hp wet shot) is designed completely different but I will still make the install as hidden and clean "as possible". With 100sq.ft. of space under the hood of the truck I shouldn't have to be too creative...:D :p
 
Itch, If this is a M6, get a new clutch. mine lasted about 10 runs on a 125 dry shot. the stock clutch will crap out quick. either that or get a progressive controller so it doesn't all hit at once.

spec's stage 3 is a nice upgrade on the LS1's for a reasonable price and you don't need to upgrade the master/slave.
 
mr. anderson said:
Itch, If this is a M6, get a new clutch. mine lasted about 10 runs on a 125 dry shot. the stock clutch will crap out quick. either that or get a progressive controller so it doesn't all hit at once.

spec's stage 3 is a nice upgrade on the LS1's for a reasonable price and you don't need to upgrade the master/slave.
Click to expand...

No mine is an automatic... I know...:eek:
I'm going to have my tranny guy give it a good going through before going nutz. :slug:
I have quite a bit of converter lag on kick-down so I'm not sure what converter I have in the car. The tranny is my weak link in the car just like the truck, but I'll work that out.

I swore I wouldn't mod this car (1 of 1)but you know what, I've decided it's NOT an investment. I bought it to keep,,, so here we go $$$...:dontknow: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Stinker said:
:D :D :D :D :D :D never kno:p
Click to expand...

Re; Challenger "MOLEST" that sucker... Like you need permission...:D
Just get a STICK-ON N02 system to match it's hood pins...:p

Seriously...
How about a couple of custom brake lines for my Line LOCK for a ghey LS1 ??? Possible?$?:dontknow:
 
JMB Justin said:
Nitrous relays draw alot more the .6amps! You need relays, keep the wiring simple. Typically a purge solenoid doesnt use a relay, just make sure the switch you are using to activate it can handle 5 amps or so and the wiring is 14g or bigger. Your schematic should work fine, its just different than most (including me) would do it.
Justin
Click to expand...


my bad it is the nitrous express selenoid pulls 1.8 not .6...

i was looking at the fuel and purge ones.
http://www.zex.com/Products/NitrousComponents/Solenoids.asp
 
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