mickster said:
I think I should change the brake fluid as the brakes were SMOKING when we finished the second lap lol.
Also thinking EBC set up front and rear. any thoughts????????????????????????
Hi,
I am new to the SRT 10 world, but not to the Ring. I have been blessed in the Air Force and was stationed at Lakenheath, then Germany- 11 plus years there. Been to the Green Hell ('Ring) many times with my little Bavarian wundercar (a sister to my car with a much better driver then me did the full track in 7:22).
This track (and Hockenheim even moreso)) reward good brakes and punish those without them.
Sad to say, someone dies about once a month there and it usually has to do with failure to stop or properly navigate a corner, to say it in nice terms. Brakes are nothing to cut any corners on there. At the end, if the line is not long to exit, drive right off the track and cruise around the beautiful Eifel region to let the breaks cool. If stuck in line, you will hear the histle and crackle of all those rotors warping. Nice that we already have the brake cooling hoses, nice touch that surprised me when I bought mine.
The absolute best brake fluid bar none is Castrol SRF, period. It is very expensive, but has phenominal dry and wet (when water enters the system, which it always will) boiling temps that no other fluid can touch. It only takes you to boil your brakes once there to know it is worth every penny.
There is only one streetable brake pad I trusted that would outperform the factory BMW factory M pads at those high Autobahn speeds. Ferodo in the DS-2500 compound. They are good front and rear and usable for the track and also good at cold temps on the street. If you want to swap out pads at the track, DS-3000 are better for the front end and could keep Ds-2500 on the rears. Neither are kind on dust or rotors, so have to be vigilant on cleaning, not a big deal through. You are in luck, Ferodo UK is awesome, but not cheap compared to US discounters. I don't know if they make them for our wundertrucks though.
Rotors- best if can get floating discs (breaking surface is held on the center hub by expandale links. This will still allow you consistent braking when the rotors expands. Not absoluytely necessary, but nice if can get it, and will keep the rotors from warping (they will).
Also titanium backing plates for the pads, if you can find them, isolate some heat from transfering from the pads to the calipers. Remember that heat has to go somewhere, so if do this, even more important to have the best pads you can afford.
I dreamt about driving my QC around the ring and had to wake up to clean myself............
Be safe
Bryan
