OIL PRESSURE

Prof said:
My life is so laid-back that blood pressure is in the negative numbers!

But I still have one consulting client and that hits me for about 5 hours a month and one trip a quarter...and yesterday...got a call about teaching a couple of classes in the fall...very tempting to get back in the classroom...I do love that environment.

I still wonder what might cause high oil pressure and what would be considered too high??

Oil pressure in an engine is usually dictated by the main bearing clearance. The closer the tolerance between the crank and bearings the higher the load on the pump. A couple of other factors also come into play, oil viscosity (using higher than recommended) and oil pump type. There are high pressure pumps and high volume pumps. Although, a high volume pump will also generate higher pressures than stock. In your case if I were a tech looking at it, my first instinct would be to connect a mechanical gauge (verify the stock sending unit is working). A bypass in the filter allows oil through without being filtered in case it becomes clogged (rule that out). Sediments in the oil passages could lead to excessively high pressure. A partially spun main bearing could also lead to excessively high pressure. Oil has to flow from the block through the hole in the main bearing to lubricate the crank and rods. If the bearing is spun enough to block that hole, it will cause a problem.

These are some things that come to mind from my experience rebuilding engines. My guess is it is probably the sending unit malfunctioning or if you are using a higher viscosity oil that recommended, you may try switch back.
-Muzzy
 
Stinker said:
Replace you sending unit prof

but on a note, how well or what kind of breather system do you have?

on forced induction that is the cause of many oil leaks, you need a breather from each valve cover, and no I really dont care what any of the builders have to say, jsut take my word on this , it makes a big difference.

And also that is the reason why I run a mechanical oil pressure, water temp, and fuel pressure guage, you need accurate readings and stock guages cannot be trusted.
listen to this man as he speaks the truth, with FI you need a better breather setup, no offense but that roe thingy is crap, you need to have a breather on both sides, preferably with a vacum assist, until I did my system I would get oil everywhere, not saying this is your problem but your motor would definately benefit from a better breather system, these motors work better in a vacum, having a little filter at your oil fill in not nearly enough, my $.02
 

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Great overview Muzzy. Still using Mobil 1 Syn 10w30 have from the start. Will check the pressure asap with a mechanical gauge... only have about 1000 miles since last oil change, used a factory filter...

Thanks for all of the other ideas...

Great to have an experienced mind working with me on this issue...most things are easy for me on the fourth or fifth time...its those first three times that get me down!
 
I have two breathers on the driver side bank, but none on the passenger side. There is a breather port there, but it is covered with a plastic cap...anyone added a breather there on a Roe install?

Marc T...NBT...Bone? Or even a recent Roe install...maybe the more recent installs have more breathers? I have no oil spray or film in the engine compartment...
 
And also that is the reason why I run a mechanical oil pressure, water temp, and fuel pressure guage, you need accurate readings and stock guages cannot be trusted.

Agree 100%
 
hehateme/1Fast400 said:
Agree 100%

Thanks for your input Mike, and sorry for the ripoff at your track!

But congrads on the super turnout!
 
Prof I will tell you one thing I have learned that I do love bud.

The pillare guage placement sucks.

I know its the best place for cool looks, but here lately during a few , shant we say , street money runs;) have noticed that where I put my guages on the hood area is killer.

the ones on the pillar I have to look to the side and it takes away from my forward view for a second.

the ones out front I can see with ease during the run, actaully thinking of moving the AEM a/f guage and the boost guage out there since they are more critical and moving the oil pressure and water temp inside
 
Got to get new setup...yours may be the way to go...even if it isn't the best, just being like Stinker has a lot of value!
 
Prof, for now, just cut that cap off and put a breather on from Autozone or similar store. Simple install. They must have capped the wrong side. Like the others said, need breathers on both sides.

Probably 10 bucks at a local store. May need a 90 degree elbow, I haven't looked at your setup.
 
I am goin to have a set of valve covers fo sale that has the fitting dohickys ready in the rear for dual set up if anyones interested
 
Prof said:
My life is so laid-back that blood pressure is in the negative numbers!

But I still have one consulting client and that hits me for about 5 hours a month and one trip a quarter...and yesterday...got a call about teaching a couple of classes in the fall...very tempting to get back in the classroom...I do love that environment.

I still wonder what might cause high oil pressure and what would be considered too high??


Mine sits at 75/25/55...Cold/Idle/Cruising at 70.....
 
areuv said:
listen to this man as he speaks the truth, with FI you need a better breather setup, no offense but that roe thingy is crap, you need to have a breather on both sides, preferably with a vacum assist, until I did my system I would get oil everywhere, not saying this is your problem but your motor would definately benefit from a better breather system, these motors work better in a vacum, having a little filter at your oil fill in not nearly enough, my $.02

Would you elaborate a little more 0n your setup?

I have attached a catchcan to the 2 rear ports and have the Roe breather on the ooil filler cap. I will post photos later!!

Roy, I will post photos later!!:D

Areuv, very interested in your set-up!!:rock:

Vacuum assist has been mentioned by some other peeeps I have talked too. Is it run through the exhaust??
 
Crankcase evacuation is probably the best way to get rid of blow-by gases and improve ring sealing. The Exotic Engine setup looks pretty, but is just ties to a vent canister. It does nothing to provide negative crankcase pressure. You should be able to modify the Exotic Engine (pretty) setup to work with some of the components of these kits: Crank Case Evacuation Kits

I would replace their vent canister with the check valves from the Moroso or Mr. Gasket setup and weld them into the exhaust. That way it will still look nice, but also provide the necessary low pressure to help reduce oil leaks and improve ring seal.

...my 2 pesos
-Muzzy
 
Muzzy said:
Crankcase evacuation is probably the best way to get rid of blow-by gases and improve ring sealing. The Exotic Engine setup looks pretty, but is just ties to a vent canister. It does nothing to provide negative crankcase pressure. You should be able to modify the Exotic Engine (pretty) setup to work with some of the components of these kits: Crank Case Evacuation Kits

I would replace their vent canister with the check valves from the Moroso or Mr. Gasket setup and weld them into the exhaust. That way it will still look nice, but also provide the necessary low pressure to help reduce oil leaks and improve ring seal.

...my 2 pesos
-Muzzy


:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
That is something i will look into!!

Here are some photos of my set-up now. I have not had any leakage yet!! Knock on Wood.

I know I could have routed the hose in a more discreet manor, but I was in a hurry!!:eek: :p






Thanks Justin!!:rock: :rock:
 

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