OnceBitten
Full Access Member
My Oil Temp Gauge is "stuck" on 170 deg. Anyone had this issue? Not sure where to start to diagnose the problem. Any help is appreciated.
Oil Temp Gauge Issue
- Thread starter OnceBitten
- Start date
Dom426
Full Access Member
might be the sending unit??
problem with the oil gauge seems to be common...dont remember any fixes other than replacing but as Dom said you might have the sending unit checked before buying a guage..
OnceBitten
Full Access Member
Next dumb question to avoid having to search. Where is the sending unit located on the engine? I guess I will start there.
Thanks
Thanks
perk_1405
Full Access Member
The gauge is usually the problem. I would start looking for the sender near the oil filter housing, that's where the usually are
OnceBitten
Full Access Member
Just ordered a sending unit (36.00). The gauge costs (160.00) might get lucky. If it is the gauge anyone know a cheaper source for it?
the guage usually takes a crap on ya, check with dragon , he can hook you up with a oem unit, if you want aftermarket, I can help ya,
the sending unit is located on the passenger side of the engine, find you oil cooler, and follow the lines from it to the block, the sending unit is jsut above them
the sending unit is located on the passenger side of the engine, find you oil cooler, and follow the lines from it to the block, the sending unit is jsut above them
Psycho Mythic
Full Access Member
My gauge has been stuck on 170 since i bought the truck too. The light comes on but the gauge never moves, even if the truck is turned off. That makes me assume that the gauge is bad, if i was the sending unit i would think it just wouldn't move at all, or maybe read inaccurate or something.
Hey stinky, what does an aftermarket oil temp gauge cost for you?
Hey stinky, what does an aftermarket oil temp gauge cost for you?
Psycho Mythic said:
You have an 06 truck...any warranty left?...if so, it will cover the guage..
I don't recall anyone ever having a sending unit problem. It is usually the gauge. I would think if it was the sending unit the needle would probably just sit on zero and not move, or peg.
When it sticks in the range somewhere it is probably the guage.
When it sticks in the range somewhere it is probably the guage.
Psycho Mythic
Full Access Member
I wish, the warranty was up when i bought itTNVIPER said:
perk_1405
Full Access Member
TNVIPER said:
That would be putting a bandaid on the problem. Crappy gauges from the factory, I would go aftermarket.
perk_1405 said:
He can always go after-market if the replacement OEM breaks...which may never happen or as long as he owns the truck....not everyone has had a problem...my truck was built 37 months ago..guage work fine...if it does quit I am going to replace it with another A/F guage...the oil temp guage is kinda useless to me...maybe good if you road race..
there are many choices Psycho, electric, mechanical, 1/2 sweep full sweep, digital carbon, we could go on.Psycho Mythic said:
but here is one that is a short sweep electrical with sending unit, close to the factory look for about $65 shipped
mr. anderson
Full Access Member
mine failed, when I bought my truck(used) it was stuck at 180 with power on or off. I got lucky and found one on fleabay for 50 shipped.
OnceBitten
Full Access Member
Well it sounds like it is probably the gauge but....is there anyway to "test" the sending unit? I could use a multi-meter but I am not sure what would be a "good" reading.
mr. anderson
Full Access Member
OnceBitten said:
yep, if there is someone else near you in WV with a 10 swap the gauge. you don't need to pull it from the pillar just disconnect the electrical connector.
but chances are if power is off and it is stuck its most likely the gauge. you could confirm this by removing the connector from the gauge and start the truck. without power the gauge should go to below 140 or what would be zero.
perk_1405
Full Access Member
OnceBitten said:
remove the wire and measure resistance to grd off the sender. then crank the truck and do the same. u should see it change.
Chuck B
Full Access Member
Two basic checks for these type sensors. One is voltage check of the circuit and the other is resistance of the sending sensor. Please understand if your SRT has canbus system (2006) you need to take care about making electrical connections/tests. Otherwise voltage should be no less than 1vdc and not greater than 5.2vdc. Resistance check of the sending unit should never be below 100 ohms. You'll want to disconnect the wire plug from the sending unit before doing basic resistance check. Disconnecting the harness and then starting the engine may throw a an error code. Its a good test for the sending unit however you'll then need to erase the error code afterward.
Doing a series of checks/tests would narrow the problem. I'd start with a simple resistance check with engine off of the sending unit. Hope that helps...
Doing a series of checks/tests would narrow the problem. I'd start with a simple resistance check with engine off of the sending unit. Hope that helps...
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