Parts for noisy Dana60

[Viper-Bastler]

As I already mentioned in my introduction thread, I got trouble with the Dana 60. It became noisy. I don't know whether the gears or bearings cause the noise. Will be the best idea to replace everything. As my Tremec made sound I found a single scratch in a bearing. I fixed it with a Timken Masterkit. Big work for a very small damage. ( see pics in my album )

I would prefer a little stronger parts than OEM cause I'm usally driving at 120 to 140 mph for long distance. The Tremec T56 and the Dana are getting amazing hot.

Today I read a lot here and found this site very helpfull:
www.drivetrainspecialists.com
But what will fit in my '04 RC best ? What is recommended ? Did anybody replace gears or bearings by stronger ones ?

Ah, yes, money matters. I saw a complete nice rearend at JTS. :drool: Simply too expensive.

 

[ZCx]

howdy & welcome to the RBC from Texas:rock::rock::rock:

bout the only "upgrade" for the stock rearend is the cryoed spider gears.

have not heard of any better bearins, clutch packs, axles or gears for our "one off" Dana's

probably just have to change tranny & rearend fluids more often, to get better life out of them

 

[viperhauler]

what noise? grinding or crunchy? or whiney?

i had a clip inside that holds the clutchpack together break... i caught it early and replaced the new clutches in the rear end and the actual gears were fine...

a good upgrade is to cryo the spider gears (which you have to take out anyway when you rebuild), but other than that, they're a decent rear end.

i would say order a new clutch kit from jtsvp.com and if you want, you could cryo the spider gears, but if you're not going to the track much, then you won't benefit as much...

make sense?

 

[Slitherbeast]

just slow down some! these trucks are a big brick ! the drivetrain takes alot of stress maintaining 120-140mph for any length of time!! stuff is gonna get hot!!!! to maintain those speeds < just get a viper!!!

 

[Viper-Bastler]

Cause it is a grinding noise I expected the bearings to be weak. But rotation of the pinion may be very fast and may cause the same noise.
and...
Speeding with a "small" Viper isn't funny at all. Everbody knows the Viper.
If I come with my Ram to catch a BMW thats fun.
I am living near Dingolfing. BMW are built here, and I guess every third neighbour is working at BMW. :toilet:
And I'm not driving too fast, I'm just flying too low.
I just found this:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfIRn2DkITM[/ame]
to explain the problems of my tranny.

 

[ZCx]

that would be sweet:rock::burnout::rock::burnout:

saw a show on the Autobahn & they showed about the "ghost drivers".
those jack wagons must be lookin to die

 

[Prof]

I completely replaced my stock rear end...went with Strange 35 spline axles, with cryoed gears, and a Detroit Locker. Also added Wilwood calipers and rotors...net gain:

Incredible traction, the ability to run 16 inch rims with slicks, no issues at all these days.

Go to Tony's web site and check out the full rig...

http://shop.jtsvp.com/product.sc?productId=6&categoryId=176

 

[Slitherbeast]

You will have to replace all the bearings and realign the pinion to crown . you need to fine the best possible oil and , somehow , increase the volume in both the diff and the trans. Find a larger diff cover that will carry more oil ,or make one . Design a trans oil cooler that will carry more oil and can run from the drain hole , through a pump , cooler and then back to the fill hole. just my opinion.... these beasts push alot of air at those speeds !
Strength of the diff ,i don't think,is the issue. the diff is strong as it is. Any diff and trans you put to that kind of test , will build alot of heat!!

 

[viperhauler]

Cause it is a grinding noise I expected the bearings to be weak. But rotation of the pinion may be very fast and may cause the same noise...

It sounds like carrier bearings to me... My wife's jeep carrier bearings went out in the Dana44 and it sounded like an ice machine crushing ice...

IMO, the high speed driving is fine, but replace the clutches while you're in there, and go ahead and replace the pinion seal, too... The gear set may be fine but check ALL the teeth, if they're sharp or chipped, replace them...

Cryoed spider gears may not be necessary, in this case...

 

[Viper-Bastler]

I completely replaced my stock rear end...went with Strange 35 spline axles, with cryoed gears, and a Detroit Locker. Also added Wilwood calipers and rotors...net gain:

Incredible traction, the ability to run 16 inch rims with slicks, no issues at all these days.

Go to Tony's web site and check out the full rig...

VENOM EDITION SERIES REPLACEMENT PERFORMANCE AXLE ASSEMBLY - JTS Venom Performance

YES ! :drool: Even the price would be fine. ...if I wouldn't live in germany and had to ship it in an overseacontainer and taxes ...

 

[Viper-Bastler]

You will have to replace all the bearings and realign the pinion to crown . you need to fine the best possible oil and , somehow , increase the volume in both the diff and the trans. Find a larger diff cover that will carry more oil ,or make one . Design a trans oil cooler that will carry more oil and can run from the drain hole , through a pump , cooler and then back to the fill hole. just my opinion.... these beasts push alot of air at those speeds !
Strength of the diff ,i don't think,is the issue. the diff is strong as it is. Any diff and trans you put to that kind of test , will build alot of heat!!

Thats exactly my first idea for the Tremec. Oilcoolers are cheap, but so far I was not able to find an elektric oilpump that will fit.

Btw. I know a lot of SRT drivers in germany. One of us disassembled his 48RE 4!-times in 2 years. Allways a little fortified, but he seems to have no luck so far. At the moment his QC. is standing again.

 

[ZCx]

really would not hurt to know exactly what temps the tranny & rear diff is running.

either a temp sensor/gauge set up, temp. gun or temp tape

just by touch can be very misleading.

i know that NASCAR runs a pump driven off the pinon/driveshaft thru a cooler for the rearend.

same type set up should work for a manual tranny