Paxton install Radiator removal

silversrt

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What a fu**ing pain in the ass.I had to remove 5 hydraulic lines , a plug ,2 bolts, both hoses, and a bunch of wire clips,in order to get out my radiator last night.What kind of design uses the power steering to drive the fan?:dontknow: :mad: :mad: For those of you that know about the Paxton install, you have to remove the radiator in order to gain acess to the crankshaft and pulley in order to add 2 dowel pins so the extra hp wont cause the pulley to spin on the crank. I swear this and drilling the oil pan are a royal PITA. Oh well, im done venting for now.Any short-cuts that you guys know of would really help save time so I can get it done in time for sat.:)
 
LOL....welcome to the "I installed the Paxton myself club"..I think there's only 3 of us out there :D

Yes, the radiator is a pain, (having a 19mm too) But to make life easier, I removed the A/c condenser while I was there...then you don't need a 90 degree chuck, you can just go straight into the crank.

My A/C never blew cold right away, but after I took the condenser off, and the dealership refilled it, it blows cold ASAP from turn-on. So that fixed my a/c issue :)

-Red
 
RedSrt007 said:
LOL....welcome to the "I installed the Paxton myself club"..I think there's only 3 of us out there :D

Yes, the radiator is a pain, (having a 19mm too) But to make life easier, I removed the A/c condenser while I was there...then you don't need a 90 degree chuck, you can just go straight into the crank.

My A/C never blew cold right away, but after I took the condenser off, and the dealership refilled it, it blows cold ASAP from turn-on. So that fixed my a/c issue :)

-Red

Patrick,
Let me guess. The three are: You, myself and VPRPWR (Daniel) ?

I can now understand why DC performance charges 2500-4500 for the install.
I am just not made of money and that 2500 can be better spent on a vacation or something else.I have never tackled such a project before, but I have done a few jobs.Like changing the timing belt and water pump on my honda.I figured I could do it.The only pressure is to have it done by sat.I am taking friday off of work though.That should help me tie up the loose ends.
Hopefully I will be a famoso with a few extra ponies.:burnout: :D
About what should my RWHP be with the "stock" Paxton tune?
 
silversrt said:
Patrick,
Let me guess. The three are: You, myself and VPRPWR (Daniel) ?

I can now understand why DC performance charges 2500-4500 for the install.
I am just not made of money and that 2500 can be better spent on a vacation or something else.I have never tackled such a project before, but I have done a few jobs.Like changing the timing belt and water pump on my honda.I figured I could do it.The only pressure is to have it done by sat.I am taking friday off of work though.That should help me tie up the loose ends.
Hopefully I will be a famoso with a few extra ponies.:burnout: :D
About what should my RWHP be with the "stock" Paxton tune?

Yup, VprPwr and I are the only ones right now, you will be #3 :rock: to join us...(hopefully #3 isnt bad luck LOL)

if you get everything done correctly (no belt slippage, install the right pulleys (ones that come in the kit to replace the oem ones), no boost leaks, etc..) You should be about to see about 600-615 at the wheels on the factory Paxton tune...Remember, this is all pure stipulation, but that's my guess

-Red
 
It's called pinning the crank. So she won't slip... under/boost!

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Quick
 
Last edited:
sleeper said:
silversrt said:
Patrick,
Let me guess. The three are: You, myself and VPRPWR (Daniel) ?

What about Boomer?:dontknow:

Doesn't count. He turned "pro" long ago.

Unfortunately, I'm going to miss the pleasure of pinning the crank pulley, as the engine will be returned to me with that done. However, I did have to completely remove the rad, condenser, hydraulic lines to get the engine out. Guess I didn't miss out much, eh?;)
 
silversrt said:
What a fu**ing pain in the ass.I had to remove 5 hydraulic lines , a plug ,2 bolts, both hoses, and a bunch of wire clips,in order to get out my radiator last night.What kind of design uses the power steering to drive the fan?:dontknow: :mad: :mad: For those of you that know about the Paxton install, you have to remove the radiator in order to gain acess to the crankshaft and pulley in order to add 2 dowel pins so the extra hp wont cause the pulley to spin on the crank. I swear this and drilling the oil pan are a royal PITA. Oh well, im done venting for now.Any short-cuts that you guys know of would really help save time so I can get it done in time for sat.:)
i feel guilty when i giggle about this. its a long process to do one. hang tough!
 
Paxton Install

I've been viewing this forum and the old one for about 9 months, but this is my first post. I did a the full Paxton install a couple of months ago and sent Silver SRT a PM if he needed any help. This is a great forum. To Silver SRT, this weekend I'll be at home, installing Billy Boat exhaust system.

Location The OC - Calif.
Cal plate VIPER HP
2005 Com. edition
 
VIPER HP said:
I've been viewing this forum and the old one for about 9 months, but this is my first post. I did a the full Paxton install a couple of months ago and sent Silver SRT a PM if he needed any help. This is a great forum. To Silver SRT, this weekend I'll be at home, installing Billy Boat exhaust system.

Location The OC - Calif.
Cal plate VIPER HP
2005 Com. edition


Hrey bro,
Thanks for the contact info.I might give you a call when i get stuck.:D
Dont be a stranger and continue posting.:D
 
sleeper said:
So where you at on this install bill? Are you still on track for the 23rd?

Well Eric,
I got the crank pinned last night and put back the pulley and went ahead and put in my 170 deg. T-stat.The radiator is back in but the lines are not hooked back up yet.Tonight I will drill the oil pan and tap for the oil drain hose fitting,And finish hooking all the hydraulic lines back up to the radiator.I am off fron work on friday, so tommorrow night i will do a marathon into the early morning.I am sure gonna try like hell to "git-er-done" .:dontknow: :confused: :burnout: :)
 
VIPER HP said:
I've been viewing this forum and the old one for about 9 months, but this is my first post. I did a the full Paxton install a couple of months ago and sent Silver SRT a PM if he needed any help. This is a great forum. To Silver SRT, this weekend I'll be at home, installing Billy Boat exhaust system.

Location The OC - Calif.
Cal plate VIPER HP
2005 Com. edition
Hey Viper welcome to the non Turd licker club :D Post up more since you have some knowledge that can be useful to others and have some damn fun :D
 
VIPER HP said:
I've been viewing this forum and the old one for about 9 months, but this is my first post. I did a the full Paxton install a couple of months ago and sent Silver SRT a PM if he needed any help. This is a great forum. To Silver SRT, this weekend I'll be at home, installing Billy Boat exhaust system.

Location The OC - Calif.
Cal plate VIPER HP
2005 Com. edition


Welcome to the forum even though you have been lurking for a while. Post up some time.
 
VIPER HP said:
I've been viewing this forum and the old one for about 9 months, but this is my first post. I did a the full Paxton install a couple of months ago and sent Silver SRT a PM if he needed any help. This is a great forum. To Silver SRT, this weekend I'll be at home, installing Billy Boat exhaust system.

Location The OC - Calif.
Cal plate VIPER HP
2005 Com. edition

Forget that idea of doing the exhaust, :idea: Come down to Famoso and join the family.:D
 
To Silver SRT: When you drill the pan with the Rotobroach, be extra careful removing it from the pan as the edge of the alum. cut out can fall off of the end of the Rotobroach cutter and into the pan!! Then your screwed. I tested cutting a flat piece of alum. in the vise before drilling the pan. I found that if you move the drill in a circlular motion after the Rotobtoach cuts thu the pan, and the CAREFULLY pull it out very slowly at a angle, the piece will not fall off the end of the Roto. Frankly I liked drilling the crankshaft better. Also there is no oil in the front of the pan with only 8.5 quarts of oil. After the alum. shaving fall off in the pan, I overfilled the oil (about 10 quarts) and jacked up the rear end of the truck so the oil would get to the front of the pan and then drained the oil to wash out the shavings. Oh and also grease the drill bit and the Rotobroach to help catch the shavings also.
I could go on and on, so my offer still stands to call me if you get in a bind.

VIPER HP
 
Dude, thats a lot of work.......I would be nervous. Good luck with getting her done in time, but getting her down properly is what you really want.

Viper HP, post up some more, we need more tech guys like yourself. Post some pics of your ride too.

patrick
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
Dude, thats a lot of work.......I would be nervous. Good luck with getting her done in time, but getting her down properly is what you really want.

Viper HP, post up some more, we need more tech guys like yourself. Post some pics of your ride too.

patrick

Youre not kidding! I just got done for tonight.Radiator is back in and all hoses and lines are reconnected.Oil pan is drilled and fitting is in place.Started putting together bracket to mount the main unit.It will be close but im gonna do my best to get it done by sat..I am doing it correct and taking my time so to speak.I have learned that rushing causes mistakes.I am taking off friday from work.I hope that gives me the time I need.:confused: I"ll keep yall updated. :)
 
silversrt said:
Youre not kidding! I just got done for tonight.Radiator is back in and all hoses and lines are reconnected.Oil pan is drilled and fitting is in place.Started putting together bracket to mount the main unit.It will be close but im gonna do my best to get it done by sat..I am doing it correct and taking my time so to speak.I have learned that rushing causes mistakes.I am taking off friday from work.I hope that gives me the time I need.:confused: I"ll keep yall updated. :)
get a set of calipers and measure the spacers for the mouting plate. some of the instructions show putting a spacer next to the belt tensioner pulley. THIS IS WRONG, EVEN THOUGH THE MOUNTING PLATES ARE DRILLED AND TAPPED FOR IT, YOUR TENSIONER PULLEY WILL HIT THE SPACER, AND DAMAGE THE PULLEY, SPACER AND BELT.
now back to your regular scheduled programming;)
 
BOOMER said:
get a set of calipers and measure the spacers for the mouting plate. some of the instructions show putting a spacer next to the belt tensioner pulley. THIS IS WRONG, EVEN THOUGH THE MOUNTING PLATES ARE DRILLED AND TAPPED FOR IT, YOUR TENSIONER PULLEY WILL HIT THE SPACER, AND DAMAGE THE PULLEY, SPACER AND BELT.
now back to your regular scheduled programming;)

Thanks Boomer! This part has me scratching my head.The instructions I have were downloaded off of the Paxton site.
 

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