Piston swap?

BLWNSRT

Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
792
Reaction score
5
I've got a few questions I have a 06 with 15000km, with a roe with a 8# pulley making 6#s of boost, this winter I am going to do the pistons.
So I was looking at Roe's site there are direct replacement pistons and there is the whole rotating Assembly. I am not going to run 800+ HP just going to add w/m to it this summer and already have hardened pushrods.

I was thinking to go with the direct replacement pistons can I just pit them in or should I hone the block, my other truck I got a shop to bore it out and fit each piston to it's hole.

Another question I have put the dowel pins in the crank that came with the Roe kit so I really don't want to pull the crank out of the block, if I do what do I have to do ( one dowel is a little crooked).

Open to ideas I want to keep the cost down as much as possible (yeah right :D ) I can do everything at work except the machine work.

Thanks
 
Ramchargerguy said:
I've got a few questions I have a 06 with 15000km, with a roe with a 8# pulley making 6#s of boost, this winter I am going to do the pistons.
So I was looking at Roe's site there are direct replacement pistons and there is the whole rotating Assembly. I am not going to run 800+ HP just going to add w/m to it this summer and already have hardened pushrods.

I was thinking to go with the direct replacement pistons can I just pit them in or should I hone the block, my other truck I got a shop to bore it out and fit each piston to it's hole.

Another question I have put the dowel pins in the crank that came with the Roe kit so I really don't want to pull the crank out of the block, if I do what do I have to do ( one dowel is a little crooked).

Open to ideas I want to keep the cost down as much as possible (yeah right :D ) I can do everything at work except the machine work.

Thanks
At least get forged rods and key the crank ,some have had trouble with the pins. if you bore your machinest will have to have the proper torque plates.
having it all balanced would be nice as well.:) :girl:
 
How hard is it to key a crank that has had pins installed I have never done one like this before.
 
Ramchargerguy said:
How hard is it to key a crank that has had pins installed I have never done one like this before.
you can take the pins out once you take the pulley off thats not a big deal.
 
Ramchargerguy said:
How hard is it to key a crank that has had pins installed I have never done one like this before.
i believe you woud have to remove it and have the slot cut into it for the woodroof type key, might ask Sean about that.
 
Wifey said:
the man that has been down the road should know:rock: :rock: :D :girl:
Yeah but your 1 of a few smart one's. I would keep her stock, now I know what I know:dontknow: :D :bawling: $$$$$$$$$just falls out of your pockets once you start. Wifey knows best:girl:
 
DevilDawg3097 said:
Yeah but your 1 of a few smart one's. I would keep her stock, now I know what I know:dontknow: :D :bawling: $$$$$$$$$just falls out of your pockets once you start. Wifey knows best:girl:
worse than a boat, the biggest hole in the water you dump all your $$ in;) :girl:
 
Hey Ramcharger guy ,get ahold of Louie at AMS Engines,he did my engine and YellowFever#154 's also,he is the only one around here with a Viper torque plate. He will get you customs pistons,rods,enlarge your wristpins,wire lock them the works!! Excellent guy to talk and deal with!
 
Yellow venom said:
Hey Ramcharger guy ,get ahold of Louie at AMS Engines,he did my engine and YellowFever#154 's also,he is the only one around here with a Viper torque plate. He will get you customs pistons,rods,enlarge your wristpins,wire lock them the works!! Excellent guy to talk and deal with!

I was going to send you a pm to see what you did.
 
Ramchargerguy said:
So I started reading, did you hone the block in vehicle and put stock bore pistons in. Have you keyed your crank or have pins.

Edit got to the line where u used a 320 hone
no I didnt key the crank. Not goin over 850hp;). They were drop in pistons and rods fro wiseco and K1. I am very happy and 10k miles later :D Im running 10lbs of boost an a 100-150 shot no problems stayed with 9.6-1 on compression. Tony can hook you up. Oh and Ring end gap I used was .010 on top and .020 bottom. Also I noticed you have less miles on yours then when I did mine so you should be well with in tolerances on liners and crank. So you should be able to do a dropp in with just a hone like mine. I had 20k and a new crank put in. So ;)
 
DevilDawg3097 said:
no I didnt key the crank. Not goin over 850hp;). They were drop in pistons and rods fro wiseco and K1. I am very happy and 10k miles later :D Im running 10lbs of boost an a 100-150 shot no problems stayed with 9.6-1 on compression. Tony can hook you up. Oh and Ring end gap I used was .010 on top and .020 bottom. Also I noticed you have less miles on yours then when I did mine so you should be well with in tolerances on liners and crank. So you should be able to do a dropp in with just a hone like mine. I had 20k and a new crank put in. So ;)

thanks that was a good read, I will pm Tony see what he says. I still think I will pull the motor and do it on a stand. Just send it to the engine shop to measure the bores and file the rings. I've got 6 months easy of winter to decide what I will do.
 
I'll tel ya I dont agree with what dawg did:D

and he will tell ya I said the same LOL

but with that said, he is working, but if you pull it and put it on a stand , you are good to go,

K1 tech rods are the best to go with , no modifications to the crank, I am trying hard to get some at the moment, actualy a couple sets.

billet mains right now tho are impossible to get almost

but the K1 rods need custom pistons, the only drop in pistons are from Roe if not mistaken, he sells diamond pistons that will fit the oem rods


the reason I say custom pistons is you will go from a .943 pin on oem to a ,927 chevy style pin n the k1 rods, but the rod end fits the oem crank , other than that you will end up with chevy rods, and have to offset grind the crank for the rods to work properly
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
I'll tel ya I dont agree with what dawg did:D

and he will tell ya I said the same LOL

but with that said, he is working, but if you pull it and put it on a stand , you are good to go,

K1 tech rods are the best to go with , no modifications to the crank, I am trying hard to get some at the moment, actualy a couple sets.

billet mains right now tho are impossible to get almost

but the K1 rods need custom pistons, the only drop in pistons are from Roe if not mistaken, he sells diamond pistons that will fit the oem rods


the reason I say custom pistons is you will go from a .943 pin on oem to a ,927 chevy style pin n the k1 rods, but the rod end fits the oem crank , other than that you will end up with chevy rods, and have to offset grind the crank for the rods to work properly


20K miles as a Mopar/Chevy hybrid and she still screams....almost zero blowby and about 2K miles to a qt of oil.....:party:
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top