Please Help

[Rickspeed]

So I am in the middle of my Mopar Long Tube Header install, and after getting off the stock headers and exhaust componets on the drivers side, I decieded to pull a spark plug and check it out. To my suprise the first 4 i pulled were gapped at .040 or greater, so i figured let me replace the plugs.

Everything was going smooth until I got to the 5th one all the way in the rear. Connecter ripped out of the wire and was stuck on top of the plug, and now i cant get the manifold off because of 1 screw.

Does anybody know a shop in NJ that has concept in finishing the install. All my friends are import heads, and have no clue. I really wanted to do the install myself but running into these issues suck. The truck is my only means of transport, and i lost my job before the holidays, so this really sucks.

Sorry for rambling on, Thanks, Rick

 

[includemeout]

sacrifice the plug, hit it with a hammer( don't hit the wire connector though as you may be able to resue it with care) and break the porcilin part off, will give you the clearance you need.???

 

[Rickspeed]

sacrifice the plug, hit it with a hammer( don't hit the wire connector though as you may be able to resue it with care) and break the porcilin part off, will give you the clearance you need.???

the bolt i need to get out is holding the intake manifold on, its nowhere near the plug, thanks for the help though.

 

[SANCHOBA]

if your :dontknow: talking about the INTAKE MANIFOLD,why is it coming off for headers? or am i missing something?

 

[includemeout]

the bolt i need to get out is holding the intake manifold on, its nowhere near the plug, thanks for the help though.

You will need a wooble head socket and an extention.

 

[FerrariTruck]

You will need a wooble head socket and an extention.

add a double wobble from what i've heard

 

[Rickspeed]

add a double wobble from what i've heard

that is what I am picking up first thing in the morning, and gunna continue, hope it works. thanks

 

[Venom Power]

if your :dontknow: talking about the INTAKE MANIFOLD,why is it coming off for headers? or am i missing something?

Scott, I think he means he is attempting to remove the intake manifold because he has to replace the broken plug wire.

I had the same problem with the connector breaking off the wire and staying on the spark plug. That was also on the driver side and last plug.. Plug #9. It happened on #7 too. I got a small pick hook and hooked onto the connectors and pulled. It worked for both plugs. If you don't have a small pick hook you should be able to use a wire hanger. Straighten it and use a pair of pliers to make the end into a small hook that fits into the plug holes. OR you can go to an auto parts store or hardware store and purchase a set.

 

[Rickspeed]

if your :dontknow: talking about the INTAKE MANIFOLD,why is it coming off for headers? or am i missing something?

I have a spark plug wire issue, i need to remove wire number 9, and fix or replace it.

 

[includemeout]

JMB Justin
Supporting Vendor

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,050
Member Number: 595

You'll need:
T20 torx
7/16 wrench and socket (shallow preferred)
1/4 drive ratchet and extensions
Flat Screwdriver
T30 socket

I just took mine off today, took about 30-40 minutes with air tools. The gaskets should be reusable, they are o-ring style, but you can replace them as well (will run you almost $100 for the set at list price). Remove the TB, Map sensor, IAC motor, power brake hose, injector clips, fuel rails, and valve cover breather line. Remove the clips holding the wiring harness to the intake. These are a pain and will require some prying. There are 5 I believe. Now the intake bolts. All of them are easily accessed either through the slots in the top of the manifold or from the side of the manifold except.......two back lower ones. This is where you get the T30 socket out and go through the narrow slot in the back. A socket will not work on the drivers side, but will on the passengers side (you cant pass it through the slot though). If the bolts fall, no biggie, the valley tray will catch them. That should take care of it, and the manifold should lift off (not light, its alot of aluminum!)

 

[SANCHOBA]

1/4" driveset....torx,socket and long extension and tap the torx into the head of the bolt so it bites. i tried the flex and u-joint and didn't have any luck. and tape your sockets to the extension or you'll lose them and have to go purchase another...ask me how i know!

YOU CAN DOIT'!

 

[Rickspeed]

JMB Justin
Supporting Vendor

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,050
Member Number: 595

You'll need:
T20 torx
7/16 wrench and socket (shallow preferred)
1/4 drive ratchet and extensions
Flat Screwdriver
T30 socket

I just took mine off today, took about 30-40 minutes with air tools. The gaskets should be reusable, they are o-ring style, but you can replace them as well (will run you almost $100 for the set at list price). Remove the TB, Map sensor, IAC motor, power brake hose, injector clips, fuel rails, and valve cover breather line. Remove the clips holding the wiring harness to the intake. These are a pain and will require some prying. There are 5 I believe. Now the intake bolts. All of them are easily accessed either through the slots in the top of the manifold or from the side of the manifold except.......two back lower ones. This is where you get the T30 socket out and go through the narrow slot in the back. A socket will not work on the drivers side, but will on the passengers side (you cant pass it through the slot though). If the bolts fall, no biggie, the valley tray will catch them. That should take care of it, and the manifold should lift off (not light, its alot of aluminum!)

I did all that, but that one on the drivers side stripped with the T30, it seems to be ALOT TIGHTER than the others. So now i am in a bit of a situation. Any Ideas? And thanks.

 

[Rickspeed]

1/4" driveset....torx,socket and long extension and tap the torx into the head of the bolt so it bites. i tried the flex and u-joint and didn't have any luck. and tape your sockets to the extension or you'll lose them and have to go purchase another...ask me how i know!

YOU CAN DOIT'!

i did all that, and the bolt stripped using the T30 torx. Now i need to find another way.

 

[SANCHOBA]

tap the torx into the head of the bolt..i had the same problem. the head of the bolt catches all sorts of crud/corrosion. and push down when unscrewing

oooppss...i think we are typing at the same time!

 

[SANCHOBA]

any chance you can get some PB BLASTER or equivalent on it? (i'd go look but i'm on the boat)

 

[Rickspeed]

any chance you can get some PB BLASTER or equivalent on it? (i'd go look but i'm on the boat)

I am gunna go at it again tomorrow, but I am pretty sure the torx part of the bolt is stripped, and I will have to pull out the big guns (PB Blaster) and see if it helps. Thanks.

 

[FerrariTruck]

use a small propane torch and apply some heat to bolt for like a minute and then try.

 

[SANCHOBA]

i saw a tool/bits on TV call GRAB-IT,kinda' like an EZ-OUT

 

[Rickspeed]

Thanks guys, got it off today. Since it is off, and never planning on taking it off again after putting it back on. Dropped it off to my polishing guy to get it blinged out.