SilvrSRT10
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Oh sure, that's you story now. Let someone's hot daughter share your room and watch the sleeping monster awaken.:rock:Prof said:
Ported T/B?
- Thread starter Roz
- Start date
That would be a welcome miracle. I would be happy with a short wilted asparagus stalk, but "sleeping monster" really sounds good...I think I will add that to my sig!
21 CTSRT
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Im waiting til boomer gets done with his single blade t/b. no release dates yet.
FSTJACK
Full Access Member
Thumbnail on porting a throttle body
I have no tip in or adaptive issues with my ported throttle body.
The throttle blades must be marked (indexed) on disassembly to get them in the exact stock position when you reassemble the butterflys to the shaft, and to the throttle bores. A small scribe with a very sharp point works well, for marking the blades and housing.
Remove the TPS.
The butterfly shaft threads that protrude through the shaft must be ground flush with the throttle shaft to prevent breakage. They are swedged in and even after grinding you will need to use lubricant, (Zep 45, Triflow, penetrant) to get them out. Some of them might not come out easily even after grinding and lubricating. Screw them out and in to get them to release. Alternate going back and forth between the screws to give them a chance to cool down, they will get hot. Work slowly so as not to break a screw. Keep the screws in order so you can reinstall them back in the same hole they came out of.
The shaft positioning is critical with regards to lateral movement to keep the butterflys from binding, and have correct air flow at idle.
If you do not want to remove the bearings from the housing mask them off carefully so no debris can get into the bearing itself.
Do not touch the areas of the throttle body bore where the butterflys ride.
Measure the TPS pin out resistance before dissassembly so it can be reset to the factory calibration. Prefferably measure the actual output voltage of the TPS wiper at idle. this is more accurate than measuring resistance.
After porting, blending and polishing, clean all the metal parts with brake clean, very well. Blowing out everything but the TPS with high pressure compressed air. Making sure that the threads on the screws and the shaft are cleaned of all dirt and oily residue. Do not get cleaner on the TPS, or O rings.
Reinstall the shaft, install the butterflys but do not tighten yet, just snug the screws down loosly. Carefully align your scribe marks between the butterflys and the throttle body housing. Once you have the butterflys in position (this will take some time to align correctly). Make sure that there is no binding between the butterfllys and the housing. Tighten the butterfly screws to final torque. Recheck the butterflys and housing for any binding or misallignment. Remove the screws one at a time and apply Blue thread locker to the threads of each screw. Reinstall and tighten the screw with the loctite and go to the next screw, repeating the process untill all screws are tightned with thread locker. Check for proper alignment of the butterflys to housing once mere.
Reinstall the TPS and check for resistance or voltage.
I have no tip in or adaptive issues with my ported throttle body.
The throttle blades must be marked (indexed) on disassembly to get them in the exact stock position when you reassemble the butterflys to the shaft, and to the throttle bores. A small scribe with a very sharp point works well, for marking the blades and housing.
Remove the TPS.
The butterfly shaft threads that protrude through the shaft must be ground flush with the throttle shaft to prevent breakage. They are swedged in and even after grinding you will need to use lubricant, (Zep 45, Triflow, penetrant) to get them out. Some of them might not come out easily even after grinding and lubricating. Screw them out and in to get them to release. Alternate going back and forth between the screws to give them a chance to cool down, they will get hot. Work slowly so as not to break a screw. Keep the screws in order so you can reinstall them back in the same hole they came out of.
The shaft positioning is critical with regards to lateral movement to keep the butterflys from binding, and have correct air flow at idle.
If you do not want to remove the bearings from the housing mask them off carefully so no debris can get into the bearing itself.
Do not touch the areas of the throttle body bore where the butterflys ride.
Measure the TPS pin out resistance before dissassembly so it can be reset to the factory calibration. Prefferably measure the actual output voltage of the TPS wiper at idle. this is more accurate than measuring resistance.
After porting, blending and polishing, clean all the metal parts with brake clean, very well. Blowing out everything but the TPS with high pressure compressed air. Making sure that the threads on the screws and the shaft are cleaned of all dirt and oily residue. Do not get cleaner on the TPS, or O rings.
Reinstall the shaft, install the butterflys but do not tighten yet, just snug the screws down loosly. Carefully align your scribe marks between the butterflys and the throttle body housing. Once you have the butterflys in position (this will take some time to align correctly). Make sure that there is no binding between the butterfllys and the housing. Tighten the butterfly screws to final torque. Recheck the butterflys and housing for any binding or misallignment. Remove the screws one at a time and apply Blue thread locker to the threads of each screw. Reinstall and tighten the screw with the loctite and go to the next screw, repeating the process untill all screws are tightned with thread locker. Check for proper alignment of the butterflys to housing once mere.
Reinstall the TPS and check for resistance or voltage.
FSTJACK said:
Now there should be a charge for that lesson!
SilvrSRT10
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Prof said:
iwantmysrt said:
A post for the DIY section.
Nowwhat
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I did mine pretty much the same way FSTJACK described. I used a Sharpie to outline the throttle plates before disassembly. That way I had my "do not cross" line when porting. Secondly, I did not reuse the factory throttle plate screws. I went to my local Ace Hardware and got replacement hardened machine screws. I also used Red threadlock mostly due to my paranoia of them coming loose (blue is probably more than adequate).
Here are some pics from back when I did mine:
Stock
This is a picture of one side roughed out, with the other side stock:
These are pictures of the TB after I finished porting and giving a bath in the parts washer:
I measured the bores at 2.558"(from the back side). The bores from the front side are 2.310". That is a difference of .248" or roughly a quarter inch. The front side bores have 8.378 square inches combined. After porting the front to match the back, the bores now have 10.273 square inches combined. I gained 1.895 square inches by porting the stock TB.
-Muzzy
Here are some pics from back when I did mine:
Stock
This is a picture of one side roughed out, with the other side stock:
These are pictures of the TB after I finished porting and giving a bath in the parts washer:
I measured the bores at 2.558"(from the back side). The bores from the front side are 2.310". That is a difference of .248" or roughly a quarter inch. The front side bores have 8.378 square inches combined. After porting the front to match the back, the bores now have 10.273 square inches combined. I gained 1.895 square inches by porting the stock TB.
-Muzzy
Damn! That looks huge!
Would someone have to reprogram my VEC III if I had this done?
Would someone have to reprogram my VEC III if I had this done?
Texas Yellow Fever
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Prof said:
Prof, it is amazing how much you can open them up. I do not think you'd have to program anything.
SilvrSRT10
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Muzzy said:
Muzzy, whats your seat of the pants meter tell you. Is it a noticeable gain?
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