PROJECT "THUNDER DOME"

[MoparMan84]

Finally time to start building the system in the truck. Going with JL Audio 5.25" C5 components and C2 coax powered by a JL 300/4. And as far as the sub, well, I'm sure from the pictures you now realize why its called "THUNDER DOME". JL 12" W7 powered by a JL 1000/1. My friend is helping me build a new sub box that will resemble the OEM center consul. Should be retarded LOUD!!!

 

[1-FAST-SRT-10]

Sub box under the rear seat stealth look loud bass...

 

[ryan]

Finally time to start building the system in the truck. Going with JL Audio 5.25" C5 components and C2 coax powered by a JL 300/4. And as far as the sub, well, I'm sure from the pictures you now realize why its called "THUNDER DOME". JL 12" W7 powered by a JL 1000/1. My friend is helping me build a new sub box that will resemble the OEM center consul. Should be retarded LOUD!!!

VERY LOUD ibet...sweet combo of amp to sub,they work well together.

 

[Dom426]

no offense but i think it looks like shit right there looks like something a highschool kid would do..... no maybe with some modification it could look cool like wrap it in suede or some integrated cup holders hell i dont know but im not sure if anything could make thatv look better ...with all do respect.....edit just read the rest of your post lol thank you thanks so much i should have read the whole post i was just so horrified with what i had seen i needed to respond asap

 

[MoparMan84]

no offense but i think it looks like shit right there looks like something a highschool kid would do..... no maybe with some modification it could look cool like wrap it in suede or some integrated cup holders hell i dont know but im not sure if anything could make thatv look better ...with all do respect.....edit just read the rest of your post lol thank you thanks so much i should have read the whole post i was just so horrified with what i had seen i needed to respond asap

lol You thought I was just going to leave that box sitting there? HAHAHA!!!! No sir, not at all. My friend is a carpenter by trade and hes helping me design and fab a beautiful center consul that will house the sub. The bottom will be carpeted to match the floor, and the top will have a leather arm rest that will be stitched together to resemble the seats.

 

[Hatedonmostly]

Ever heard of digital designs???? I ran them for years. Had 2 15-9500 d1 coils with two earthquake d-3s Best on a term was 149.2 not bad. I used to compete years ago in car audio, So if ya need anything let me kno if I have it i'll hook you up.

 

[5_0_BAIT]

It will sound awesome. Make sure your carpenter friend knows how to make a sub box. Sounds dumb, but a sub box is not made like a piece of furniture. Make sure he uses MDF of 3/4" or thicker ( I use 1" MDF).

I do have a question. Actually 2.

First, are you running (or going to run) that amplifier off the stock deck??
If so, you might run into a small problem. The line output converters will not stand long abuse from a 1000 Watt amplifier. They have a tendancy to get real hot (lots of experience with this unfortunately) Make sure you turn the gain on the Line Output Converter as slow as possible.

Second, are you gonna run a second battery??? or just a cap?? (JL 1000 draws between 60-80 Amps of current pretty steadily)
If cap, don't waste your money, trust me they are useless (ask me and I will be glad to explain)
Battery is the way to go. You can run a second battery with an isolator so that when you run your amps it won't kill your primary battery, causing the question " Ya'll got n-e jumper cables?"

Enjoy the new beats, and play it loud:rock: :rock: :rock:

Hatedonmostly, I have had DD's in the past. They are the shit. The everyday laimon doesn't even know they exist. It's sad really. They make high quality stuff.

 

[SRT10VENOMOUS]

Ever heard of digital designs???? I ran them for years. Had 2 15-9500 d1 coils with two earthquake d-3s Best on a term was 149.2 not bad. I used to compete years ago in car audio, So if ya need anything let me kno if I have it i'll hook you up.

When i was 18 i use to run 2 18 inch strokers " peak handling power 4000 wats rms" and i ram them with a colosus hyphonics and was pushing a lil over 2000rms if i recall corectly... that set up hit 145 + or so

 

[MoparMan84]

It will sound awesome. Make sure your carpenter friend knows how to make a sub box. Sounds dumb, but a sub box is not made like a piece of furniture. Make sure he uses MDF of 3/4" or thicker ( I use 1" MDF).

I do have a question. Actually 2.

First, are you running (or going to run) that amplifier off the stock deck??
If so, you might run into a small problem. The line output converters will not stand long abuse from a 1000 Watt amplifier. They have a tendancy to get real hot (lots of experience with this unfortunately) Make sure you turn the gain on the Line Output Converter as slow as possible.

Second, are you gonna run a second battery??? or just a cap?? (JL 1000 draws between 60-80 Amps of current pretty steadily)
If cap, don't waste your money, trust me they are useless (ask me and I will be glad to explain)
Battery is the way to go. You can run a second battery with an isolator so that when you run your amps it won't kill your primary battery, causing the question " Ya'll got n-e jumper cables?"

Enjoy the new beats, and play it loud:rock: :rock: :rock:

Hatedonmostly, I have had DD's in the past. They are the shit. The everyday laimon doesn't even know they exist. It's sad really. They make high quality stuff.

I do plan on purchasing an aftermarket head unit. I was thinking maybe an Alpine. But as far as a extra battery, I really never considered that. I guess that's something i should look into.

 

[5_0_BAIT]

MoparMan84, good to hear you are gonna replace the deck. Alpine is great, just make sure that the one you buy has high voltage sub-out. You want nothing lower than 3 period. The higher the pre-out voltage the louder and clearer EVERYTHING will be (sub wise)

To give you an idea of what's out there, Eclipse (fujitsu-ten) makes decks with 8 Volt Pre-Outs. Best in its class.

The whole battery thing is something most people forget about. Once you hit the threshhold of a big system (1000 + RMS Wattage) you have to upgrade your electrical system.

A List of things to change:
Second Battery (not a necessity but HIGHLY, HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommended)
Upgrade alternator ground to 4 Gauge or larger
Upgrade engine block ground to 4 Gauge or larger
Gold/Platinum Battery terminals

Most people overlook these upgrades (the JL manual for the amp lists upgrading engine grounds as a must on page 2) Any system done RIGHT is built like this.

Would you SC or TC your truck without forgin' it? You can but why?

Same holds true for the electrical system. The system will work without these upgrades, but it puts unneeded stress on the sub, amp and electrical system.

Post up if you need anything. I have an entire garage of audio. From fittings, to digital fuse blocks, current meters, voltage meters (for installing in the car Autometer one's) If you can think it, I probably have 2.

Have fun and welcome to the audiophile community:rock: :rock: :rock:

Oh almost forgot, make sure you take a vid of the sub moving hard. The guys on the forum will freak when they see how much excursion that thing has!!!

 

[NorCal SRT-10]

no offense but i think it looks like shit right there looks like something a highschool kid would do..... no maybe with some modification it could look cool like wrap it in suede or some integrated cup holders hell i dont know but im not sure if anything could make thatv look better ...with all do respect.....edit just read the rest of your post lol thank you thanks so much i should have read the whole post i was just so horrified with what i had seen i needed to respond asap

haha.. your brutal honesty always cracks me up. Your just "keepin' it real!"

 

[Hatedonmostly]

MoparMan84, good to hear you are gonna replace the deck. Alpine is great, just make sure that the one you buy has high voltage sub-out. You want nothing lower than 3 period. The higher the pre-out voltage the louder and clearer EVERYTHING will be (sub wise)

To give you an idea of what's out there, Eclipse (fujitsu-ten) makes decks with 8 Volt Pre-Outs. Best in its class.

The whole battery thing is something most people forget about. Once you hit the threshhold of a big system (1000 + RMS Wattage) you have to upgrade your electrical system.

A List of things to change:
Second Battery (not a necessity but HIGHLY, HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommended)
Upgrade alternator ground to 4 Gauge or larger
Upgrade engine block ground to 4 Gauge or larger
Gold/Platinum Battery terminals

Most people overlook these upgrades (the JL manual for the amp lists upgrading engine grounds as a must on page 2) Any system done RIGHT is built like this.

Would you SC or TC your truck without forgin' it? You can but why?

Same holds true for the electrical system. The system will work without these upgrades, but it puts unneeded stress on the sub, amp and electrical system.

Post up if you need anything. I have an entire garage of audio. From fittings, to digital fuse blocks, current meters, voltage meters (for installing in the car Autometer one's) If you can think it, I probably have 2.

Have fun and welcome to the audiophile community:rock: :rock: :rock:

Oh almost forgot, make sure you take a vid of the sub moving hard. The guys on the forum will freak when they see how much excursion that thing has!!!

Yes listen to him he is right, Cap are useless, I would get another battery. I had 4 kinetic's on my old setup, Yet still not enough. Car audio world is very fun. If i recall the 1001 is a class d right?

 

[MoparMan84]

The more I look at the sub sitting in the center consul, the less I like it. I mean, even with a nice box in there, it just looks so massive. I might have to think about plan B. Plan B was to buy a set of used SRT10 bucket seats and replace the bench in the back with the 2 buckets. Then I would have plenty of room for the sub and amps. But that's just added expense. I need to look at this more closely. Learning about the battery upgrade and the power/ground upgrade is making me think twice about what I'm getting myself into.

 

[Hatedonmostly]

Or you could just do smaller subs? Maybe 2 8's.... 2 dd1508's would shake that truck with a good mono amp.

 

[5_0_BAIT]

MoparMan, can I make a suggestion???

Go with 2 Heavy 8's (JL 8" W7) They are much shallower than the 12" but with 2 you get a larger cone area (16" instead of 12") which pushes more air. Another idea/hint would be to down-fire the subs. You might not be able to see how pretty they are but they pound harder and give you a surround sound feel. Just a thought.

If you don't wanna upgrade the electrical system, make sure you stay around the 400-800 RMS Wattage area.

You could always runa second battery and mount it by the rear tire with the battery relocator kit from Justin (my plan before I sold the 10)

 

[Hatedonmostly]

But does he have enough room to down fire the subs and make them load off of the floor. 8w7's are pretty beefy if i must say, but 2 of them and a 500/1 would be perfect. Go ported get best bang for your buck inless your going for SQ

 

[Dom426]

MoparMan, can I make a suggestion???

Go with 2 Heavy 8's (JL 8" W7) They are much shallower than the 12" but with 2 you get a larger cone area (16" instead of 12") which pushes more air. Another idea/hint would be to down-fire the subs. You might not be able to see how pretty they are but they pound harder and give you a surround sound feel. Just a thought.

If you don't wanna upgrade the electrical system, make sure you stay around the 400-800 RMS Wattage area.

You could always runa second battery and mount it by the rear tire with the battery relocator kit from Justin (my plan before I sold the 10)

5.0 bait you know dam well that is not how you figure cone area!!!

 

[Dom426]

MoparMan, can I make a suggestion???

Go with 2 Heavy 8's (JL 8" W7) They are much shallower than the 12" but with 2 you get a larger cone area (16" instead of 12") which pushes more air. Another idea/hint would be to down-fire the subs. You might not be able to see how pretty they are but they pound harder and give you a surround sound feel. Just a thought.

If you don't wanna upgrade the electrical system, make sure you stay around the 400-800 RMS Wattage area.

You could always runa second battery and mount it by the rear tire with the battery relocator kit from Justin (my plan before I sold the 10)

radius squared x pi (3.14)
2 8" woofers have a cone area of 100.48 sq inches
and a 12 has a cone area of 113.04 sq inches

so you my friend are way wrong!!!

 

[MoparMan84]

So ive decided to stay with the 12. Ive looked at a couple designs and I think I can make this work. I sketched out a couple designs. What do you guys think about down firing the W7. Someone recommended it in one reply. Heres a question though, can I change the shape of the recommended box as long as i keep the same air space? Here's a couple designs i came up with. And suggestions would help. And thanks to everyone who has posted on this tread, I truly appreciate the help!!!

 

[Hatedonmostly]

Cubes are cubes in air space no madder how you build it. Are you running sealed or ported? if ported what fz are you going to tune your port at, Mine was 40sqin at 38hz in my old setup. Lower the better for street beating.