Pumping clutch pedal between shifts

[TREKER]

I have had an ongoing issue with my clutch. I am looking to replace it soon but I do not think it is the clutch itself.

I took it out today because I am going to take it to a local transmission guy across from my office. The pedal goes all the way to floor without engaging or disengaging the clutch. Only after I pump the pedal do I get pressure enough to shift. When I pump pedal 10 times, I get enough pressure to get from 1st to 2nd, and maybe third before I cannot even get it out of gear without pumping it up again.

It got so bad that I had to pull over. I opened the master for the clutch cap and added a little fluid. (It was actually full still but looked kinda cloudy) Got back in, started it, and had perfect clutch again, but only for a short time.

Questions..

1. How can I nail down exactly what the issue is?
2. Is this the problem that occurs due to the stock plastic hydraulics?

Thanks

 

[Muzzy]

I am sure the stock plastic hydraulics do not help. They are cheap. It sounds like you have air in the line. You can try bleeding the clutch hydraulics and see if that cures the problem. If the master or slave cylinder is worn out, you will continue to get air in the line until they are replaced.

-Muzzy

 

[JRSVIPR]

I have had an ongoing issue with my clutch. I am looking to replace it soon but I do not think it is the clutch itself.

I took it out today because I am going to take it to a local transmission guy across from my office. The pedal goes all the way to floor without engaging or disengaging the clutch. Only after I pump the pedal do I get pressure enough to shift. When I pump pedal 10 times, I get enough pressure to get from 1st to 2nd, and maybe third before I cannot even get it out of gear without pumping it up again.

It got so bad that I had to pull over. I opened the master for the clutch cap and added a little fluid. (It was actually full still but looked kinda cloudy) Got back in, started it, and had perfect clutch again, but only for a short time.

Questions..

1. How can I nail down exactly what the issue is?
2. Is this the problem that occurs due to the stock plastic hydraulics?

Thanks

Yes it sounds like the hydraulics, Several of us have had the same problem.

 

[TREKER]

I am sure the stock plastic hydraulics do not help. They are cheap. It sounds like you have air in the line. You can try bleeding the clutch hydraulics and see if that cures the problem. If the master or slave cylinder is worn out, you will continue to get air in the line until they are replaced.

-Muzzy

Thanks bro...

I am not losing fluid so maybe the plastic is going bad. If that is the case, I will need to take it to a dealer I guess.

 

[JRSVIPR]

Thanks bro...

I am not losing fluid so maybe the plastic is going bad. If that is the case, I will need to take it to a dealer I guess.

JMB Justin has a upgrade kit for this, Look in the vendor section. He is a great guy. http://www.jmbperformance.com/

 

[TREKER]

JMB Justin has a upgrade kit for this, Look in the vendor section. He is a great guy. http://www.jmbperformance.com/

Yes, I know Justin ... I am going that route but I am trying to just nail down the problem first.

 

[JRSVIPR]

Yes, I know Justin ... I am going that route but I am trying to just nail down the problem first.

Don't quote me on this, But i am pretty sure that's the problem.

 

[Smokey]

Don't quote me on this, But i am pretty sure that's the problem.

i would also, you have air in the line, easy fix

 

[TREKER]

i would also, you have air in the line, easy fix

how would air get into system if I have no leaks? I open the master up and it's pretty topped off. I opened the cap and it sounded like it was vacuum sealed. I added a tea spoon of fluid and it was too much. Put cap back on and it was like a new truck. Not perfect, but 85% better. So how would air get into system?

 

[TREKER]

Bump...

How does air get into the system without having a leak?

 

[kennygene]

My truck does the same thing. You have a leak or it wouldn't be low. Crawl under the truck and look at the bottom of the bell housing. You can see it will be just faintly wet. This is exactly what mine does. However, the leak is not bad enough to replace the entire clutch system. Mine only needs fluid about once every 6 months or even less. If you keep an eye on it, your clutch will always work perfectly.
I usually make sure that when I remove the cap, the little rubber liner pops up about half way floating. That makes it easy to check. I hope this helps. Mine doesn't even leak enough to ever drip in the garage floor.

 

[TREKER]

My truck does the same thing. You have a leak or it wouldn't be low. Crawl under the truck and look at the bottom of the bell housing. You can see it will be just faintly wet. This is exactly what mine does. However, the leak is not bad enough to replace the entire clutch system. Mine only needs fluid about once every 6 months or even less. If you keep an eye on it, your clutch will always work perfectly.
I usually make sure that when I remove the cap, the little rubber liner pops up about half way floating. That makes it easy to check. I hope this helps. Mine doesn't even leak enough to ever drip in the garage floor.

Thank you for the info. I dont notice any leaks either. But I also dont seem to be low on fluid.

What I have noticed is at lower RPM's I can shifter easier. When I rev up and try to shift, the pedal will stick to the floor sometimes and I have to pump pedal to get it out of gear. The very next shift at lower RPM's seems fine. How low on fluid can you be before noticing an issue? I did notice that they is some gray stuff floating in the master too. WTF is that?

 

[Slitherbeast]

I would say , at the very least, to replace the master cylinder . then judge the results!!

 

[kennygene]

My truck has identical symptoms when low. You may want to drain it down and change the fluid to get the debris out. Otherwise, adding fluid and bleeding (if necessary) will keep it working properly.
My truck would not upshift above 3k rpms when it was low. Reverse was impossible without turning off the engine and first was hard as well. Now, upshifts are buttery smooth at 5800 rpms and reverse is just a click away! I spent about 2 bucks in regular brake fluid at NAPA.
You can replace the entire system and remove the trans to replace the slave if you want and it's probably a great idea. Myself, I don't drive my truck often and I hate the thoughts of spending the money on the upgrade to a truck with 10k miles on the clock. I usually just check the fluid every month or so...

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Thank you for the info. I dont notice any leaks either. But I also dont seem to be low on fluid.

What I have noticed is at lower RPM's I can shifter easier. When I rev up and try to shift, the pedal will stick to the floor sometimes and I have to pump pedal to get it out of gear. The very next shift at lower RPM's seems fine. How low on fluid can you be before noticing an issue? I did notice that they is some gray stuff floating in the master too. WTF is that?

Like Kenny said change the fluid it has broken down and the gray gunk is from gelling hot to cold. I had Idle hang at stop lights. But my fluid was dark with shit in it. Soak up the fluid up with a clean rag and clean out the inside of the cup and refill. Pump 10x and bleed repeat until it is clear and no air. Try that before you start replacing stuff.

 

[TREKER]

Like Kenny said change the fluid it has broken down and the gray gunk is from gelling hot to cold. I had Idle hang at stop lights. But my fluid was dark with shit in it. Soak up the fluid up with a clean rag and clean out the inside of the cup and refill. Pump 10x and bleed repeat until it is clear and no air. Try that before you start replacing stuff.

Two man job to replace fluid I assume and where do you bleed it from?

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Two man job to replace fluid I assume and where do you bleed it from?

No just use a bar to hold the pedal down after you pump it up(move the seat forward to hold the Bar) I use a long 3/8 extention. Right next to where the master plugs into the slave there is a bleeder screw 7/16 wrench also if you dont have a bleeder hose you will make a mess. Also becareful not to overtighten the bleeder valve because you can crack it

 

[TREKER]

No just use a bar to hold the pedal down after you pump it up(move the seat forward to hold the Bar) I use a long 3/8 extention. Right next to where the master plugs into the slave there is a bleeder screw 7/16 wrench also if you dont have a bleeder hose you will make a mess. Also becareful not to overtighten the bleeder valve because you can crack it

Is that under the hood or under the truck? I will look in a few minutes but I only see the master that goes into firewall.

 

[kennygene]

The slave is on the bellhousing (front of transmission before engine), on the driver's side. You can trace the hydraulic lines to it.

 

[TREKER]

The slave is on the bellhousing (front of transmission before engine), on the driver's side. You can trace the hydraulic lines to it.

Ok great. So I would need to jack it up or get in up on a lift. Im gonna go to a transmission shop right here and have them drain and refill it. See if that works and if not, just upgrade to the centerforce and viper hydraulics I guess.

Thanks again for the help boys.... I have a clear direction now as to how to proceed.. Much appreciated. :rock: