question about a/f gauge

[Stanimal]

i've had my a/f gauge in the truck for about a month now, and ever since i installed it it hasn't read right. i tried all 4 wires on the driver side primary O2. here's what i get. 2 of the wires keep it pegged at rich. 1 wire keeps it pegged at lean unless you are full throttle at high r's then it moves up 1 bar, and the other is right in the middle with 6 bars lit up BUT it keeps bouncing between that and full rich with one bar unless you are floored then it stays at full rich. i'm lost at what to do. any help?????:dontknow: :dontknow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

probably need to know what make you have and if its a wide band or not, and if you have any directiones. and where yu have the o2 installlllllllllllllllllllllllled

 

[Stanimal]

it's a auto meter pro comp NOT WIDEBAND unfortunately lol. it's mounted in the cubby under the heater controls, and i do not have the directions. it came in another car i got.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/837j.pdf


This should be your directions and on ours the two white wires are the heaters, the black ground, so the grey should be the one you should connect to

Without being a wideband its not gonna read quick enough to give you a real accurate reading.

you can do to ebay and search AEM Air fuel and it will bring up a six way air fuel guage with sensor for about $244 that is a wideband and it takes samples in miliseconds, and is real close to accuracy.

Hope this helps bro.

Sounds like your last wire you taped into was the right one, our trucks are pig rich from the factory.

thats why a good tune really brings on the power,

 

[Stanimal]

thanks. i'll give it a shot

 

[azpyroguy]

thanks. i'll give it a shot

Yep.. the AEM (or any wideband) is what you want... like the other said, the non-widebanders are SLOW... and not accurate... good for pretty lights is about it..

 

[Stanimal]

hooked it to the grey, it stays full rich all the time. im lost

 

[Stingray]

i've had my a/f gauge in the truck for about a month now, and ever since i installed it it hasn't read right. i tried all 4 wires on the driver side primary O2. here's what i get. 2 of the wires keep it pegged at rich. 1 wire keeps it pegged at lean unless you are full throttle at high r's then it moves up 1 bar, and the other is right in the middle with 6 bars lit up BUT it keeps bouncing between that and full rich with one bar unless you are floored then it stays at full rich. i'm lost at what to do. any help?????:dontknow: :dontknow:

That was the wire you want! The black, grey and white wires Stinker referred to are on the O2 side of the connector. On the other side of the O2 connector (vehicle side) the 2 wires - brown with yellow and brown with light green are for the heater - you don't want those. The dark blue with dark green is the sensor ground. The one you want (sensor signal) is the dark blue with light blue.

 

[TurboFreak]

On mine they had to install another O2 sensor as the stock one is not 0-1 volts. I think it is 0-5 volts like the wideband type. I ended up replacing the cheappy($40) Autometer a/f gauge with a wideband Innovate($400) one after the turbo install.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

This is th ebest deal I have been able to find



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...019QQitemZ290072866359QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks Stingray , he he eh once again on he wrong side!LOLOL

 

[Stingray]

Thanks Stingray , he he eh once again on he wrong side!LOLOL

You didn't have the wrong side. It's just that the schematics don't show the wire colors for the O2 side of the connector. So I couldn't say if he needed the white, grey or black wire.