amtrucker22
Active Member
mmmmtorque said:The weight of your penis pre-erection
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
rc leveling kit interest
- Thread starter JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE
- Start date
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
RedRamRules
Full Access Member
Are the materials annealed or heat treated prior to use receiving them? Just wanted to know, steel would be great as long as it is 316L, don't want that stuff to rust. Put me down as interested, if the price is right
DRamSrt10
Full Access Member
What is the cost?? I might be interesting.
Chuck B
Full Access Member
In the motorcycle racing world lowering unsprung weight equals huge improvements in handling. Just a couple lbs loss is eye opening. Thats one thing I was actually impressed with about our SRT's. Having 22" rims adds massive amounts of weight and still the engineers managed to have a reasonable riding/handling vehicle.
Once again engineers successfully dealt with the marketing department....
Once again engineers successfully dealt with the marketing department....
nycstev
Full Access Member
Sorry.. didnt mean an elaborate on unsprung wieght (!), but rather the dynamics of vehicle motion and wieght transfer during launch. It seems judging from some posts , these trucks have a difficult time getting traction during launch. Lots of people it seems have spent big $$$ building tremendous power but cannot efficiently transfer it to the ground. All problems have solutions!
Steve
Steve
Sharpimage
Full Access Member
nycstev said:
you bet... and my solution is just take the front end and roll cage that SOB
in and you lost like 200Lbs..
:dontknow: :rock: :rock: :burnout: also, i can't imagine anything over $200 for this kit right? i mean four U-Bolts
and two blocks? :dontknow:
Sharpi
Sharpimage said:you bet... and my solution is just take the front end and roll cage that SOB
in and you lost like 200Lbs..
also, i can't imagine anything over $200 for this kit right? i mean four U-Bolts
and two blocks? :dontknow:
Sharpi
better be at least half of that!lolololololololol
nycstev
Full Access Member
hey sharpImage can you explain? Take the front end off? Roll cage? You lost me...:dontknow:
Steve
Steve
Sharpimage
Full Access Member
nycstev said:
Hhaha, here's the idea i was getting at...
just no front fenders.. also, i hope you didn't think i was being literal.. hence
the wink.
Sharpi
nycstev
Full Access Member
Sharpimage said:Hhaha, here's the idea i was getting at...
just no front fenders.. also, i hope you didn't think i was being literal.. hence
the wink.
Sharpi
Sorry I was just in my " serious mode "here...LMFAO
I meant to post this the other day and forgot.
Anyway, if I remember right the blocks are approximately 2 x 2 x 4 inches.
If they are machined out of 6061-T651 they will weigh 1.57 pounds each. If they are machined from A36 steel they will weigh 4.53 pounds each.
As was mentioned earlier in this thread, unsprung weight should be considered when choosing which material to use. And in regard to strength, the aluminum will be fine, as long as it's not cast aluminum tooling plate. That stuff is crap for this kind of application.
Anyway, if I remember right the blocks are approximately 2 x 2 x 4 inches.
If they are machined out of 6061-T651 they will weigh 1.57 pounds each. If they are machined from A36 steel they will weigh 4.53 pounds each.
As was mentioned earlier in this thread, unsprung weight should be considered when choosing which material to use. And in regard to strength, the aluminum will be fine, as long as it's not cast aluminum tooling plate. That stuff is crap for this kind of application.
yyyesss sir!
lol
lol
mopar_mudder
Full Access Member
Interested yes, but still on the fence. Changing ride heights gets trick. I would think that 1.5" or so block would be enough. Alot of times when the back is exact same height as the front it will actually "look" low in the back.
Also blocks add spring wrap giving the axle more leverage to twist the spring. But who knows. maybe that would cause more weight transfer by putting extra pressure on the factory slapper spring.
Also blocks add spring wrap giving the axle more leverage to twist the spring. But who knows. maybe that would cause more weight transfer by putting extra pressure on the factory slapper spring.
RedRamRules
Full Access Member
Any price points yet Stink?
Sharpimage
Full Access Member
with this drop would we need to worry about drive shaft angle? :dontknow:
i thought i would just bring it up as i didn't know..
Sharpi
i thought i would just bring it up as i didn't know..
Sharpi
Sharpimage said:
On an RC it's not an issue as the angle of the transmission mainshaft and the rearend pinion does not change. The driveshaft could care less.
nun yet buddy,just made it to knoxville,should be home tommorrow and start working on it berooooo.
I had three inch blocks in mine mudder with slicks at bradenton dropping at 4000rpms and probs
I had three inch blocks in mine mudder with slicks at bradenton dropping at 4000rpms and probs
mopar_mudder
Full Access Member
Stinker said:
Cool, I would do Alum if I did it, would like to bring the rear down to level it out but don't want to mess with the front. How about an option on just the block, I can get u-bolt local. It would be cheap to just ship the alum blocks. But if you are getting a good price on the whole deal it might come out the same in the end. Must be getting lazy in my old age cause I can make them myself, but they would be steel
Another quicky. Has their been any problems sheering off the center pin on alum blocks? Or are you planing on a new center pin to bolt the block to the spring pack????
Begood
Full Access Member
On my truck, 2" blocks made the rear slightly lower than the stock front. Yours may be different.
Bill.
Bill.
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