attila
Full Access Member
is any online sto re where to order stock gaskets? looks like Summit doesn't carry them
thanks
thanks
Re-Using Header Gaskets?
- Thread starter SlvrSnake
- Start date
SlvrSnake
Full Access Member
attila said:
Ask an yee shall receive. MOPAR Parts America
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...1500&year=2005&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0
attila
Full Access Member
:rock: :rock: :rock: thanks
SlvrSnake
Full Access Member
attila said:
Not a problem
Re-torquing header bolts in aluminum bock.
Good idea but this is my theory. Aluminum head verses steel header. Aluminum will expand more when heated then steel. That's is your first problem. It's not going to change. You drive at the drag strip, you gives a shit if you win. You drive on the street, gasket is the answer, along with the gasket sealer you use on it. Ever re-tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold of a new vehicle you bought?
Gaskets first. You know more then I about gaskets for the SRT10, but I have always used Felpro. I think thats how you spell it? You get my meaning don't you? A long ago proving part. Cast iron block verses steel headers, use felpro. Factory Al block using cast iron exhaust manifold I would stick with factory gaskets. Same for steel headers.
Factory AL block using steel headers I would use a good sealer on header side of gasket. Put the sealer on the inside edge of the gasket too. Port area. also, any bolt hole in the exhaust mounting flange should not be tight. Tight is when you put the right size bolt in you should not feel the threads scraping through the hole. Ream the bolt hole out a little.
You install headers to lower exhaust pressure. While doing this you allowed exhaust to exit the head exhaust port faster. Good thing. Just remember though, exhaust gasses were a little hotter when they hit the exhaust manifold. More heat. More expansion. That steel header is really ready to go nuts with the extra heat. What ever coating you have on your headers I doubt they will lower the temp 10 degrees on the outside. Use a rap around insulator with glue before installation. Want a show truck? Want a track truck? Want a street truck its up to you? Street must go in dry, wet, sleet, or maybe snow. Bottom line is -- you want to be driving by that vehicle sitting on the side of the road.
Believe it or not? I know sometimes there is not much room between the bolt hole and the exhaust pipe on a particular cylinder. I would use the largest hardened steel washer that would fit under the bolt head, even if I had to grind a flat spot on the washer as to not interfere with the exhaust tubing. I have welded 1/4 inch flat bar to the header port flange with a solid weld around the port to inhibit expansion of the flange to lesson gasket blow out, with some success. Cast iron to steel. Have not tried AL block to steel header.
Wish I could say this only took me ten minutes to write. I can not. I put my heart and soul into it because I feel for all of you out there that are plagued with header problems. If it is not one thing it will be another, all caused by heat. I am a junk yard welder and touch man. If you don't care to get burnt? Stay away from both, including headers. Where can I get my next set of headers!!!!!! Gave you my best advise from experience. bobbymac AKA therambler
Good idea but this is my theory. Aluminum head verses steel header. Aluminum will expand more when heated then steel. That's is your first problem. It's not going to change. You drive at the drag strip, you gives a shit if you win. You drive on the street, gasket is the answer, along with the gasket sealer you use on it. Ever re-tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold of a new vehicle you bought?
Gaskets first. You know more then I about gaskets for the SRT10, but I have always used Felpro. I think thats how you spell it? You get my meaning don't you? A long ago proving part. Cast iron block verses steel headers, use felpro. Factory Al block using cast iron exhaust manifold I would stick with factory gaskets. Same for steel headers.
Factory AL block using steel headers I would use a good sealer on header side of gasket. Put the sealer on the inside edge of the gasket too. Port area. also, any bolt hole in the exhaust mounting flange should not be tight. Tight is when you put the right size bolt in you should not feel the threads scraping through the hole. Ream the bolt hole out a little.
You install headers to lower exhaust pressure. While doing this you allowed exhaust to exit the head exhaust port faster. Good thing. Just remember though, exhaust gasses were a little hotter when they hit the exhaust manifold. More heat. More expansion. That steel header is really ready to go nuts with the extra heat. What ever coating you have on your headers I doubt they will lower the temp 10 degrees on the outside. Use a rap around insulator with glue before installation. Want a show truck? Want a track truck? Want a street truck its up to you? Street must go in dry, wet, sleet, or maybe snow. Bottom line is -- you want to be driving by that vehicle sitting on the side of the road.
Believe it or not? I know sometimes there is not much room between the bolt hole and the exhaust pipe on a particular cylinder. I would use the largest hardened steel washer that would fit under the bolt head, even if I had to grind a flat spot on the washer as to not interfere with the exhaust tubing. I have welded 1/4 inch flat bar to the header port flange with a solid weld around the port to inhibit expansion of the flange to lesson gasket blow out, with some success. Cast iron to steel. Have not tried AL block to steel header.
Wish I could say this only took me ten minutes to write. I can not. I put my heart and soul into it because I feel for all of you out there that are plagued with header problems. If it is not one thing it will be another, all caused by heat. I am a junk yard welder and touch man. If you don't care to get burnt? Stay away from both, including headers. Where can I get my next set of headers!!!!!! Gave you my best advise from experience. bobbymac AKA therambler
Last edited:
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