Rear diffy help!

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Ok, so I have a terrible vibration I have isolated down to the pinion yoke and possibly bearing. U-Joints are fine and new and double checked. Seems the vibration started eating away at the ears on the yoke just where the Ujoint caps sits against on one side. I plan a new yoke obviously, but does it make sense for the outer pinion bearing to be shot and causing the vibration. The yoke does seem too loose. Can I just check for the 240 ft.lbs torque on the nut and see if it backed off? Can the OUTER pinion bearing be replaced without carrier removal?
Thanks in advance to those of you who have had their differentials apart or simply have the experience.:rock:
Have to fix this before the track Saturday.
Also noticed it seems VERY hot (the Pumkin) and has plenty of gear lube?

 

[Slitherbeast]

Check the nut if it is loose , replace it! They are $3:00. The damage may already been done though! How long was it run like this? Don't take it to the track until you have it checkout properly! If it is gonna pile up , it will do it on the track and spill oil all over it!! These engines have alot of torque and will tear the spider gears to smithereens if there is any play in it!

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Check the nut if it is loose , replace it! They are $3:00. The damage may already been done though! How long was it run like this? Don't take it to the track until you have it checkout properly! If it is gonna pile up , it will do it on the track and spill oil all over it!! These engines have alot of torque and will tear the spider gears to smithereens if there is any play in it!

Not driven much at all! I was racing and did a 1-2-1 shift and been like that since. I changed the center carrier bearing since it looked bad and it's better but not gone. It's a vibration only under torque, not coast or decel and only at a certain RPM range. Do these rears use a crush sleeve or just shims?
Thanks for the suggestions.:rock:

 

[Slitherbeast]

Shims.! Shimmed between gearhead and tapered bearing to set gear depth engagement , then stack shims between rear bearing and yoke to about 5 in/lbs of torque required to turn the free pinion. So a slight drag when the nut is torqued ! If the nut did just back out , a simple nut replacement with loctite should fix it! If you have to replace the yoke you may have to reshim the back bearing to match any yoke length difference that might exist

 

[Slitherbeast]

The key is get it as tight as you dare!!! To tight and it will burnup the bearing and to loose and it will vibrate and improperly wear the crown and pinion!!!

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Thanks again man! I am really hoping the nut backed off. There is no audible noise difference in the rear like whine or roaring, Just the vibration that I swore woulda been bearings broken in the Ujoint.

 

[vipertank]

Not driven much at all! I was racing and did a 1-2-1 shift and been like that since. I changed the center carrier bearing since it looked bad and it's better but not gone. It's a vibration only under torque, not coast or decel and only at a certain RPM range. Do these rears use a crush sleeve or just shims?
Thanks for the suggestions.:rock:

damn i hate them 1-2-1!