Rear Wheel Well Liners- INSTALLED!

Kevan

Full Access Member
Joined
May 31, 2006
Messages
4,797
Reaction score
1
Location
New Albany, OH
Thanks to Patrick at Avondale for the sweet VTCOA deal on the rear wheel well liner kit for our truck!

The kit comes with:
(1) L liner
(1) R liner
(14) new mounting clips (pitch your old ones)
(8) self-tapping screws (pitch your old ones)
(6) smooth-tip machine screws
(1) set of installation instructions

Installed:
P1030550.jpg


They say that you can leave the wheel on and install them. While this may be true, don't bother trying it that way. LOL Just pull your wheels and give yourself the necessary room to work.

Also, check clearances on the inside of the tire after you get them set. I loosened the mounting screws, then wedged a chunk of 2x4 between tire and liner, THEN tightened the mounting screws down, and finally removed the wood block.
It's still pretty close, but thankfully we're not turning the back wheels. :)
 
Kevan you know I like you. I think your a good guy even if you don't think headers make any hp. But aside from that I notice two things in your picture that bother me.

1. Why are you using the jack to support your truck and not jack stands?

2. Why are you using a jack that is ( most likely buy the looks of ) under the wieght requirements for your truck?

I had another forum brother from a texas die this way.
 
noid said:
Kevan you know I like you. I think your a good guy even if you don't think headers make any hp. But aside from that I notice two things in your picture that bother me.
Mike- it's all good. Headers DO make HP. But in certain applications, you need a slight (or very slight) amount of back pressure which stock manifolds can provide. It's odd, but sometimes slightly more restrictive = more HP. Another subject for another time/thread.

noid said:
1. Why are you using the jack to support your truck and not jack stands?
Because I never spent any time UNDER the truck.
I was never at risk in the event that the jack did fail.

noid said:
2. Why are you using a jack that is ( most likely buy the looks of ) under the wieght requirements for your truck?
The jack is rated at 3 tons. It's designed for trucks and SUVs and thus has the higher load rating.

noid said:
I had another forum brother from a texas die this way.
Sorry about that, man.
 
Kevan said:
Because I never spent any time UNDER the truck.
I was never at risk in the event that the jack did fail.

Wow, I spent 2 hours one time polishing my exhaust. Then I just laid there and stared for another 2.:D
 
i was looking for those aswell:rock: .... i hate the openings arround the rear tire, i makes the truck look cheap:mad: . how much are these ($) so i can put them on my wish-list next time I visit the states (spring 2008):elefant:
 
I think they look good, but would love to a see a pic with the wheel on now.:dontknow: Thanks for sharing!
 
Kevan,

Good job......and they do look much better than stock.

I too got some for Christmas for my QC, and installed them on Christmas Day.

I didn't take the wheels off. I raised the truck up by placing a jack and block under the trailer hitch, raising the truck up until the tires were just about to leave the ground. Gave me plenty of space.

I like the look much better.

I have about a half an inch of clearance from the back side of the tire to the liner, and so far no scrapes......

Again, looks good...

Lee
 
I have them on mine also:) They look great but will eventually start rubbing through.:( I just let mine rub until they didn't touch & now they are ok:D
Al
 
They do rub, on hard cornering or if you get on a curb which has one side of the rear axle high and the other side low. But you can pull the wheel off after a few months and see the small area they hit and cut it out. I have had them on my truck for a driving season and they are "well marked" (pun not intended) so that I can notch them out.

If Kevan does not beat me to it I will post pics of my "modified" liners in the next month or so.


You can also do the install with the tire on if you jack the truck up from the frame to get more gap between the tire and wheel well.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00035.JPG
    DSC00035.JPG
    31.6 KB · Views: 405
  • DSC00036.JPG
    DSC00036.JPG
    62.3 KB · Views: 1,123
To get clearence put 2x4 between wheel and wheelwell liner and heat with heat gun from back side let cool, and presto no more rubbing. I have done this to both of my trucks and no problems.

Jim
 
viperam said:
To get clearence put 2x4 between wheel and wheelwell liner and heat with heat gun from back side let cool, and presto no more rubbing. I have done this to both of my trucks and no problems.

Jim

Interesting, I will give that a try. Thanks
 
I installed mine on Weds., and I used the 2x4 and heat gun trick too. Great minds must think alike. I have about 3/4" clearance. If it rubs, I'll trim.
 
As I stated in my first post:
- Install the liners.
- Put wheels/tires back on (if you had them off).
- Loosen the mounting bolts for the liners 1 full turn each.
- Insert shim (ever popular 2x4) between wheel/tire and liner.
- Tighten the mounting bolts for the liner.
- Remove shim/2x4.

That should keep your liner far enough away from your wheel/tire.
I'll check them after some harder driving, but I don't foresee a clearance issue.

BTW- Dodge Part #82207367
That's for the entire kit (contents listed in first post of this thread).
Contact Avondale or any of the other fine Dodge Part vendors on this site.
 
Do you have to drill new holes into the bed or do you use existing holes that are already there from the factory to complete the install?
 
JR_PRO said:
Do you have to drill new holes into the bed or do you use existing holes that are already there from the factory to complete the install?

No drilling all the holes are alredy there:D
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top