Then the front is gonna be higher than the back with rc springs. It doesn't drop it that much. There is nothing wrong with spacers. But it's your truck do what u want
removing front coil spring
- Thread starter JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE
- Start date
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
Do you recommend any particular type of spacer or will any do the job?
When I get back to cali on tues I will let you know the part number
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
I don't remember getting one for the spacer; perhaps E will chime back in on that one.
Did anyone ever get around to taking pics when they were in the process of changing out their coil springs? I'm going to tackle this by myself in the coming weeks along with changing out the front and rear shocks and adding a bump steer kit.
Did anyone ever get around to taking pics when they were in the process of changing out their coil springs? I'm going to tackle this by myself in the coming weeks along with changing out the front and rear shocks and adding a bump steer kit.
i bought some rc srt front springs, they work great and raised it about an inch, btw my way to change springs is to remove the 2 lower control arm bolts and nuts along with the shocks and sway bar, dont touch the ball joints, and have a jack under the control arm, slowly let the jack down along with jackstands under the frame and the spring comes out easily, reinstall and use taper punch or screw driver to align the lower control arm mounts and install the bolts and well you know the rest.
Sorry. I forgot. I gave them away to someone already. But if you Google 1" coil spacers for dodge ram.(srt10) they will come up. They are from belltech
NukeGM/Ford
Active Member
Good "outside the box " thinking
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
For the lower control arm bolts, what are the torque specs for the nuts? I've seen 150, 160 and 200ft lbs. Going to go the route mentioned above by 572mopar and trying to forsee any issues that may come up in the process. Thanks in advance.
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
Ran into some problems/issues while trying to change out the front shocks and springs. Found out I don't have big enough sockets to remove the lower control arm bolts that attach it to the frame.
Where the spring sits on the lower control arm, it appears that something is coming through the lower shock mount hole (see pic). Is this a pad or something else?
My other question is on the 3rd pic. It seems that the bushing is awfully contorted where the tie rod meets the spindle. Is that ok or is there a way to make that better?
Thanks in advance
Where the spring sits on the lower control arm, it appears that something is coming through the lower shock mount hole (see pic). Is this a pad or something else?
My other question is on the 3rd pic. It seems that the bushing is awfully contorted where the tie rod meets the spindle. Is that ok or is there a way to make that better?
Thanks in advance
Attachments
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 4X4 54 40 —
Shock Absorber Lower Bolt 4X4 135 100 —
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 4X2 54 40 —
Shock Absorber Lower Bolt 4X2 35 25 —
Lower Suspension Arm Frame Nuts LD 4X2 & 4X4 204 150 —
Lower Suspension Arm Frame Nuts HD 4X2 285 210 —
Lower Suspension Arm Ball Joint Nut 1500 series only 52 Then an additional 90° 38 Then an additional 90° —
Lower Suspension Arm Ball Joint Nut (HD 4X2 only 135 100 —
Upper Suspension Arm Frame Nuts (LD) 132 97 —
Upper Suspension Arm Frame Nuts (HD 4X2 only) 170 125 —
Upper Suspension Arm Ball Joint Nut 1500 series only 54 Then an additional 90° 40 Then an additional 90° —
Upper Suspension Arm Ball Joint Nut HD 68 50 —
Stabilizer Bar Frame Bolt 61 45 —
Stabilizer Link Lower Control Arm Nut 102 75 —
Stabilizer Link Stabilizer Bar Nut 27 20 —
Hub/Bearing Bolts (LD) 163 120 —
Hub/Bearing Bolts (HD 4X2) 176 130 —
Tie Rod End Nut 61 Then an additional 90° 45 Then an additional 90° —
That is the rubber isolator that the spring sits on. Is the truck in the air in this picture or is it sitting on the ground?
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
Thanks for the torque #'s. The truck is in the air in these photos
You're welcome! That angle will change when you put the truck back on the ground. No need to worry.
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
Made some progress today. I started on the driver's side but didn't finish that side. Even though I removed the bolt attached to the tie rod and the lower ball joint (see pics), I wasn't able to pry them loose. When I lower the lower control arm with the jack, nothing pops loose either. Even though the jack is completely lowered, the lower control arm ball joint doesn't come loose. Any suggestions?
I think I'll just remove the 2 bolts attaching the upper control arm to the frame seeing as how I don't want to mess with the ball joints at all.
I think I'll just remove the 2 bolts attaching the upper control arm to the frame seeing as how I don't want to mess with the ball joints at all.
Attachments
![IMG_4532[1].jpg](/data/attachments/42/42098-28e5457d81d5f4ea10d58cef3c47a77f.jpg)
![IMG_4531[1].jpg](/data/attachments/42/42099-33b331d3155d54dedd4d41ce70b13510.jpg)
![IMG_4530[1].jpg](/data/attachments/42/42100-f212b23c024bd5f4b1edd642924f58fe.jpg)
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You want me to pass by tomorrow? I can help you out. Lmk
BlackKnight
Full Access Member
E, that's one of the nicest things anyone has offered to do for me in a long time but I couldn't ask that of you. Plus, I have numerous other errands to run and unfortunately will be breaking up my time throughout the day to work on the truck. I have your cell #, perhaps I can call you with my questions?
10-1=9
Full Access Member
Put the nuts on part way as a safty. Then give the spindle a whack with a big hammer. Hit the spindle were the ball joint goes through it. That should pop it loose. You can also use a pickle fork but that usually tears the boot.
The same thing will work on the tie rod end. Pop that loose before the ball joint. They both have A tapered fit that makes them stick.
The same thing will work on the tie rod end. Pop that loose before the ball joint. They both have A tapered fit that makes them stick.
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NukeGM/Ford
Active Member
the tie rod was easy for me but the ball joint was a bitch, i know your only trying to go through the back side like 572 said.
if you have a propane torch you can try some heat but eventually i had to use some dry ice on my lower ball joint.
local grocery store had it, cost 5 bucks, use gloves , break into small pieces so you can get it around the tie rod end (not the spindle), 30 second, then whack with a hammer
too much heat could damage the aluminum spindle, i'm hoping mine don't collapse when I'm doing 110 in corner #4 at the big speedway
if you have a propane torch you can try some heat but eventually i had to use some dry ice on my lower ball joint.
local grocery store had it, cost 5 bucks, use gloves , break into small pieces so you can get it around the tie rod end (not the spindle), 30 second, then whack with a hammer
too much heat could damage the aluminum spindle, i'm hoping mine don't collapse when I'm doing 110 in corner #4 at the big speedway
by looking at the pic you can see the force of the spring is pushing the ball joint stud into the spindle so smacking with a hammer isnt going to just do it, BUT if you were removing the upper ball joint then the spring and pressure would be working eith you and a few wraps with a hammer would work, if i were you start the nuts back on and do the bolt and nut from the a-arm and frame, much easier, be sure to have the truck resting on a jack stand and a floor jack under the a-arm with little pressure as you remove the bolts and nuts, when i reassemble i clean then grease the spring buckets to eliminate any noises after a few miles of driving.
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