Roe forged internals?

Mine is. But it was not a package. I got a Roe. Later I forged the internals. The original forged engine was lost, and had to be built again. The new engine is running strong.

As for cost, I paid nearly 18,000 the first time. The second time is hard to put a value on, as a lot of it was donated. The actual cash spent was near 6,000 if I remember right.

My overall feeling is that any power adder on stock internals is just a matter of time. They will all need to be freshened up in the end.
 
Pete let it go bro, you're not going to be faster than me! But naw I probably won't do the heads/cam for awhile so you don't have to worry about that...I'm just putting everything together piece by piece.....I'll get my spare heads built along with my custom grind cam and everythign to go with it and it will probably sit for awhile.:argh: I want to do full exhaust at the same time and really only want B&B so it will be awhile befor ei fork out 2k for headers alone! Unless i can come up on a set for the low by the time i get back!
 
hahaha... well like i said i want a strong foundation before i build. I was just looking at roe's website to see about some dyno tuning time and thats when i saw a complete forged rotating assembly for like 2 or 3k
 
youll pay for what you get on the bottom end. i think the K1 rods will bolt right in without machining the crank but they are hard to come by if im not mistaken.
 
eddie102870 said:
youll pay for what you get on the bottom end. i think the K1 rods will bolt right in without machining the crank but they are hard to come by if im not mistaken.


thats a no pooper there ,,,

i have a set sitting here looking at me :rock:
 
Ironhead said:
thats a no pooper there ,,,

i have a set sitting here looking at me :rock:


:confused: .......That sounds creepy. Did they make any demands yet? :dontknow: Just sayin'...
 
Venom Power said:
:confused: .......That sounds creepy. Did they make any demands yet? :dontknow: Just sayin'...


yup they demand i buy some forged piston to go with them they are lonely :D
 
Ironhead said:
thats a no pooper there ,,,

i have a set sitting here looking at me :rock:

I went with callie rods.. they were a little cheaper only by about 50 bucks compaired to the K1's but they have a bad ass rep with big built motors...... but anything with boost or Juice your going to want to be forged ahead of time... because if you lay a piston threw the block your out 8 grand just for a new block or if you just shoot it threw the oil pan like i did 3500 bucks it's for a new one lol
 
Tooloe said:
I went with callie rods.. they were a little cheaper only by about 50 bucks compaired to the K1's but they have a bad ass rep with big built motors...... but anything with boost or Juice your going to want to be forged ahead of time... because if you lay a piston threw the block your out 8 grand just for a new block or if you just shoot it threw the oil pan like i did 3500 bucks it's for a new one lol


i have another block and oil pan sitting in my garage :D my plan is to forge it then drop it in next year ,,then ill sell you my old motor after you trash yours again lol:aetsch:
 
I didn't buy that kit. I did buy diamond pistons. I started out going through 1 qt of oil every 1,000 miles and after I had 12k I was going through 2 qts of oil every 500 miles. About have the pistons were too loose. I now have custom Aris pistons and do not burn any oil. You need to match the piston with the bore.
 

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