ROE + NOS + stock bottom end = ??????

[yellowfever#154]

I have some traction issues to take care of first but as soon as that happens I'm sure I will feel the need for more speed! Without spending money on over priced rods, pistons, cams, and heads can I make this thing stay together with a little NOS? Maybe use a little at half track or so to give it a little extra umpf.

 

[FATJACK]

Not to ho your thread, but tell me about your six speed inc. tranny, do you like?

 

[tinygiants]

My opinion is no. The margin on our stock internals is to close to add that much power without something giving up. Just my .02

 

[moparracing]

dale knows from practical experience...... i'd listen to him.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Not to ho your thread, but tell me about your six speed inc. tranny, do you like?

I bought one of there rebuild kits, I think it was the 5A kit, and I did the rebuild. Basically the parts in the kit looked exactly like what came out of the stock tranny, except for the billet keys and bronze fork pads. If I was to do it again I would not buy the kit unless the syncros needed to be changed and I would have bought individual pieces. I ordered the parts in early December and I recieved them in about March. They kept telling me that the couriers lost the packages but there tracking numbers didnt make any sense. I think they were lying to me, but anyway I did recieve my package. It came in 2 boxes, they sent me 2 complete sets of bearings accidentally and my package of snap rings were actually used. Some of the snap rings were worn really bad, it was kinda pathetic. To be honest with you I wont ever deal with them again. The tranny does work better now, mainly because I now have reverse and also because I had damaged shifter rail bushings causing me to need a 3ft snipe on my shifter to move it. I feel the tranny is probably not a whole bunch different than a stock one in good working order. 3rd gear is still a bitch, even with Garys shifter (I think I bought it from you Jack). Anyway thats how I feel.

 

[Dave T(BADVENM)]

Two words:

KA BOOM

Trust me (as I have already had a motor blow up) you do not want to do this...unless you have an extra 5-6K around just to get another block. How much boost are you running now? Maybe you could get another pulley for another 2 psi or so, that would be close to 50 horses or so.

First thing I would do if you decide to go this route is upgrade the pistons and rods...once you do your chances of reliable power with your suggested combo will come through.

Traction will always be a problem, so why add more power that you're not gonna be able to put down at the track. You could get one of Stinkers rear axle upgrades which I think will allow for a real drag slick and thus better traction.

It cost me $6500 for a replacement motor alone when mine blew up from a "Viper tuner" of sorts which some are familiar with. Add to that the removal of all the engine bay stuff including the motor, putting the "new" motor back in, retuning the truck and all the labor (unless you do it yourself) involved. I think it ended up running me about $10K to get mine back on the road.

Get the power down to the ground that you have now, then worry about more power. Good luck, its an expensive decision...especially when it has anything to do with "Viper".

1st pic is the piston that went through the motor on the dyno, the 2nd pic is what came through into the cylinder wall from the piston in the 1st pic.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Two words:

KA BOOM

Trust me (as I have already had a motor blow up) you do not want to do this...unless you have an extra 5-6K around just to get another block.

First thing I would do if you decide to go this route is upgrade the pistons and rods...once you do your chances of reliable power with your suggested combo will come through.

Traction will always be a problem, so why add more power that you're not gonna be able to put down at the track. You could get one of Stinkers rear axle upgrades which I think will allow for a real drag slick and thus better traction.

It cost me $6500 for a replacement motor alone when mine blew up from a "Viper tuner" of sorts which some are familiar with. Add to that the removal of all the engine bay stuff including the motor, putting the "new" motor back in, retuning the truck and all the labor (unless you do it yourself) involved. I think it ended up running me about $10K to get mine back on the road.

Get the power down to the ground that you have now, then worry about more power. Good luck, its an expensive decision...especially when it has anything to do with "Viper".

You have some good points, better make her hook before adding more. I actually have contacted Tony about a rearend the other day. Probably will be a mod for next winter.

The last thing I want to do is replace a block. If a piston or 2 melts, well then its time to go forged but no sense risking a block in the mean time.

Are there different options as far as companies that everyone is using for rods and pistons or are we limited? I suppose you could have anyone make a custom piston but what available for rods?

 

[yellowfever#154]

Two words:

KA BOOM

1st pic is the piston that went through the motor on the dyno, the 2nd pic is what came through into the cylinder wall from the piston in the 1st pic.

So what went wrong in your situation? Was it a bad tune, too much NOS, over boost???? I cant say I have seen a piston come apart like that, pretty nasty.

 

[Dave T(BADVENM)]

One other and possibly bigger thing to think about, who is tuning the motor with these mods you have on already? If the tune is crap the motor will go no matter how much money you put into the motor.

 

[Dave T(BADVENM)]

So what went wrong in your situation? Was it a bad tune, too much NOS, over boost???? I cant say I have seen a piston come apart like that, pretty nasty.

I wish I knew. I bought the truck already supercharged. Sent it to a large Viper retailer who also installs mods on Vipers. I wanted it dynoed to ensure the a/f was safe. Second run on the dyno it let go. I think the truck had nitrous or nitrous/propane injection before the Paxton.

Either way, from what I was told the piston doesnt show nitrous damage but I do know that I was responsible for the entire bill. The people that had it on the dyno blamed the dealership I bought it from and vice versa, I was caught in the middle. Needless to say that dealership (which I bought 4 vehicles from in a short period of time...including a Viper) will NEVER get any of my money again.

 

[yellowfever#154]

I wish I knew. I bought the truck already supercharged. Sent it to a large Viper retailer who also installs mods on Vipers. I wanted it dynoed to ensure the a/f was safe. Second run on the dyno it let go. I think the truck had nitrous or nitrous/propane injection before the Paxton.

Either way, from what I was told the piston doesnt show nitrous damage but I do know that I was responsible for the entire bill. The people that had it on the dyno blamed the dealership I bought it from and vice versa, I was caught in the middle. Needless to say that dealership (which I bought 4 vehicles from in a short period of time...including a Viper) will NEVER get any of my money again.

Currently I am running the tunes that came with the ROE and I havent had it dynoed yet. I guess I probably should to ensure that all is well, I have put 900 miles on it including 8 passes at the track. There is a local shop that claims they have tuned Vipers with the VEC and are familiar with it.

I wonder why they made a second dyno run, I guess if it was A/F related they would have caught the problem and not run it the second time. But if it was NOS related there would have been no warning. Kinda crappy the dealer wouldnt help out expecially since you obviously are a good customer.

 

[Dave T(BADVENM)]

The second dyno run was because they found leaks in the tubing that runs through the supercharger (and a bit of lost boost) the first time. The second day was after they thought the leaks were fixed.

Do you have a reliable and accurate air/fuel gauge? With the VEC you can datalog your dyno runs and check the a/f...this is your best friend if you dont have one.

 

[yellowfever#154]

The second dyno run was because they found leaks in the tubing that runs through the supercharger (and a bit of lost boost) the first time. The second day was after they thought the leaks were fixed.

Do you have a reliable and accurate air/fuel gauge? With the VEC you can datalog your dyno runs and check the a/f...this is your best friend if you dont have one.

Leaks in the tubing? What tubing are you talking about? Something to do with how the base manifold was assembled?

I am going to get a A/F gauge as soon as Tony is done developing a driveshaft hoop. I will get it in the same package. Is it possible to datalog while making passes at the track? Probably I guess, I never thought of that.

 

[Deibs]

Leaks in the tubing? What tubing are you talking about? Something to do with how the base manifold was assembled?

I am going to get a A/F gauge as soon as Tony is done developing a driveshaft hoop. I will get it in the same package. Is it possible to datalog while making passes at the track? Probably I guess, I never thought of that.

It's possible to datalog at the track.. you just need to run a USB cable into wherever your laptop is at.. and the laptop plugged into power also to datalog, not hard to do. I just used a Radioshack inverter.

The tubing is from the air intake on the Paxton, you wont get that with the Roe, as the intake is attached. The base shouldn't leak if you put a fair amount of that silicone stuff that Roe sends.

Interesting to hear what you have planned for that beast.. Now that would be something fun!!

 

[yellowfever#154]

It's possible to datalog at the track.. you just need to run a USB cable into wherever your laptop is at.. and the laptop plugged into power also to datalog, not hard to do. I just used a Radioshack inverter.

The tubing is from the air intake on the Paxton, you wont get that with the Roe, as the intake is attached. The base shouldn't leak if you put a fair amount of that silicone stuff that Roe sends.

Interesting to hear what you have planned for that beast.. Now that would be something fun!!

Hey Shane, was thinking about data logging last night and I wont be able to see A/F ratios will I? Did you datalog when you ran the SC?

Paxton, now the tubing makes sense. I was thinking ROE for some reason, I think Dave even told me that in one of his replys. I used some super silicone crap that we use on our tractor oil pans that weigh about 300lbs and it takes a bottle jack to seperate them from the block when taking them apart.

Just thinking for the future, I dont ever see myself getting rid of the truck so better have a end goal in mind.