significant problem

[BlackoutViper]

Here in florida it's not cold much but I think the last front that came through broke my truck... The symptoms: truck will NOT shift into gear unless it's been running for a couple mins to "warm up". while running even after a good while the shifts are very stiff and forced. Trying to get the truck into reverse is a whole 'nother issue, that's just luck... parking is torture. one of the biggest noticeable difference is that the clutch pedal has about 50% of the total range as play now... like a bicycle brake that needs to be tightened. the truck's going into the shop very soon but I was hoping to have a good baseline knowledge of what is or may be wrong. any help is appreciated tremendously and if anybody has any ideas but just needs more info i'd be more than happy to answer any questions. Again, any help would be an extremely valuable asset to save some money lol

 

[FerrariTruck]

check the level of brake fluid in the reservoir...if ok then go ahead flush and bleed it with fresh brake fluid. dot 3 or 4.

if it still persists you may have a leaking slave cylinder

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Might be as simple as bleeding your clutch or as complicated as a clutch replacement. I'd start with the simple fix first. Bleed the clutch system to make sure there isn't any air in it. Make sure the clutch line is away from and heat source. If this doesn't do it then consider the Viper hydraulic master/slave upgrade. If you need to go that route you might also consider doing the clutch/pressure plate since you have things apart.

 

[yellowfever#154]

All the above responses are bang on, also change out the oil in the tranny to a ATF synthetic. The lighter oil helps when the temps are cold.

 

[FerrariTruck]

All the above responses are bang on, also change out the oil in the tranny to a ATF synthetic. The lighter oil helps when the temps are cold.

 

[robwclark]

OK im gonna tell you what to do.....listen:

Do the Viper hydrolics upgrade, period.

This alone is the single most significant mod to a stock truck in my opinion. This should fix your problem as long as your clutch is good. If your clutch doesnt have a firm "grip" when you let out during hard shifts, it could be time for a clutch. You know many guys out there dont realize just how important a good stong slip free clutch engagement is. Im am dead serious when I tell you it can make the difference between a 14.3 1/4 mi run and a 13.5 just because of a bad clutch engagement.

Comparison, and a very accurate one at that:

Take two BONE STOCK identicle 2005 Viper trucks. The only difference is:

Truck "A" has a sloppy stock clutch/stock hydrolics with 35k miles.

Truck "B" has a stage 2 Centerforce(or whatever) and Upgraded Viper Hyrolics with the same 35k miles, but this truck has the new clutch/upgrade hydros setup.

Take these trucks to the dyno and both trucks will dyno exactly say 410 HP at the wheels. OK so, you and your buddy with identicle 410 RWHP trucks decide to do a little drag race on the way home at a stop light. The truck with the new clutch will pull the stocker out 2 truck lengths at bare minimum, and not only that, but simply appear to be a faster truck at all speeds because that truck will continue to get faster all the way to 155 mph, because you got all 410 HP to the ground faster and more efficiently than your buddy with the stock clutch. True Stuff . . . . . I promise you.

 

[moparracing]

you need to upgrade (flywheel is optional) :

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=236

 

[robwclark]

you need to upgrade (flywheel is optional) :

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=236

By optional, please understand what he means is optional, is torque/HP trading. Theoretically, the lighter flywheel should help, but your HP gains will come at the cost of torque at different spots in the rev band. I personally dont like the trade, I like the stock flywheel as I am a torque whore. , BUT you should rev a little free'er up top and gain a slight bit of HP, no brainer on a Camaro or a vette, but our trucks are heavy ho's, and need all the torque you can get IMO.

 

[moparracing]

By optional, please understand what he means is optional, is torque/HP trading. Theoretically, the lighter flywheel should help, but your HP gains will come at the cost of torque at different spots in the rev band. I personally dont like the trade, I like the stock flywheel as I am a torque whore. , BUT you should rev a little free'er up top and gain a slight bit of HP, no brainer on a Camaro or a vette, but our trucks are heavy ho's, and need all the torque you can get IMO.

by "flywheel is optional", i mean it's a personal preference thang....

i've run both flywheels - if you're drag racin', ya need the fidanza.... strickly street, then the stocker will do.

 

[FerrariTruck]

OK im gonna tell you what to do.....listen:

Do the Viper hydrolics upgrade, period.

This alone is the single most significant mod to a stock truck in my opinion. This should fix your problem as long as your clutch is good. If your clutch doesnt have a firm "grip" when you let out during hard shifts, it could be time for a clutch. You know many guys out there dont realize just how important a good stong slip free clutch engagement is. Im am dead serious when I tell you it can make the difference between a 14.3 1/4 mi run and a 13.5 just because of a bad clutch engagement.

Comparison, and a very accurate one at that:

Take two BONE STOCK identicle 2005 Viper trucks. The only difference is:

Truck "A" has a sloppy stock clutch/stock hydrolics with 35k miles.

Truck "B" has a stage 2 Centerforce(or whatever) and Upgraded Viper Hyrolics with the same 35k miles, but this truck has the new clutch/upgrade hydros setup.

Take these trucks to the dyno and both trucks will dyno exactly say 410 HP at the wheels. OK so, you and your buddy with identicle 410 RWHP trucks decide to do a little drag race on the way home at a stop light. The truck with the new clutch will pull the stocker out 2 truck lengths at bare minimum, and not only that, but simply appear to be a faster truck at all speeds because that truck will continue to get faster all the way to 155 mph, because you got all 410 HP to the ground faster and more efficiently than your buddy with the stock clutch. True Stuff . . . . . I promise you.

you sir are a genious:congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats:

 

[BlackoutViper]

hey everyone thanks for the replies. I've been doing research on the hydraulics upgrade as well as the clutch and it sounds reasonable enough without the price being too astronomically high. so is this the consensus of what's wrong? or is it just highly recommended? my 2nd question has to do with the clutch upgrades, I love the way the stock clutch engages and the whole feel while driving is just perfect as far as I'm concerned. Do these clutches with higher gripping force change any of that stock feel? what exactly does that grip translate to besides "power to the ground" or something vague... I dont want to let off the clutch and have the truck yank forward everytime cause it thinks we're running the 1/4 mi. thoughts and opinions welcome.

 

[FATJACK]

Justin @ JMB Performance is also a very good vendor for Viper hydraulics and all clutch parts.

 

[Venom Power]

Just keep in mind that bleeding the clutch is tedious if you don't have adequate help. I've been at it for almost two weeks now (well, I have my sweet little 8 year old daughter with a low attention span, except for Disney, helping and I have loads of other stuff to do) and I almost got it back to normal. My problem stemmed from low to no reservior fluid while I drove her so plenty of air got into the clutch system. I still may have a little more air in the lines so a trip to OSO's house this weekend will likely get it done.

 

[FerrariTruck]

hey everyone thanks for the replies. I've been doing research on the hydraulics upgrade as well as the clutch and it sounds reasonable enough without the price being too astronomically high. so is this the consensus of what's wrong? or is it just highly recommended? my 2nd question has to do with the clutch upgrades, I love the way the stock clutch engages and the whole feel while driving is just perfect as far as I'm concerned. Do these clutches with higher gripping force change any of that stock feel? what exactly does that grip translate to besides "power to the ground" or something vague... I dont want to let off the clutch and have the truck yank forward everytime cause it thinks we're running the 1/4 mi. thoughts and opinions welcome.

yes this is what is wrong. The clutches i rec in order of least to best(they are all good clutches!) is oem mopar, spec, and centerforce. The grab or bite to me is no different on the three.

 

[FastRam]

Now that its cold around here, my 06 seems to do the same thing albeit on a lesser degree. I have a B&M shifter, stock everything else with the tranny, clutch and fluids I have no problem hitting reverse but the 1 - 2 shift can be stiff. This morning it was 25 degrees and before I took the truck out of its garage I let it warm up for 5 minutes and then ran through the gears a couple of times while it was parked. Went on my way to work and didn't have a problem one with the shifting. If you're still under warranty I would have the dealer take a look (assuming your dealer is OK), especially with the clutch pedal travel/feeling. Then decide if parts upgrades are in order.

 

[robwclark]

hey everyone thanks for the replies. I've been doing research on the hydraulics upgrade as well as the clutch and it sounds reasonable enough without the price being too astronomically high. so is this the consensus of what's wrong? or is it just highly recommended? my 2nd question has to do with the clutch upgrades, I love the way the stock clutch engages and the whole feel while driving is just perfect as far as I'm concerned. Do these clutches with higher gripping force change any of that stock feel? what exactly does that grip translate to besides "power to the ground" or something vague... I dont want to let off the clutch and have the truck yank forward everytime cause it thinks we're running the 1/4 mi. thoughts and opinions welcome.

Go ahead and do the hydrolics upgrade with no hesitation as this is an unsurpassed value even if its not your problem(I think it is your problem anyway). I would do a new centerforce clutch at the same time. I like my current centerforce just fine. Others are good too. There is a very little difference in the stocker and the centerforce for one reason. We are very lucky in this department as our trucks have a ton of room in the floorboard/behind dash area as compared to a vette or something. The clutch pedal assembly is like twice the size of that in, . . . . say, . a corvette. SO, we get to get away with a better "cheater bar" leverage making a performance clutch seem more like a stocker. There you go, get to work!!