Similar trucks/ same engines differnt temps?

let's also consider that besides electric fans ( and the one on the engine ) the 170 thermostat is only a device ( as the stock one ) which opens in function of temperature up to a max . At that point the max flow can pass generated by the waterpump.
Now generated heat must be lost trough our radiator who can do this with his capacity in which one factor is the heat difference water-ambient air.

So if we produce that much heat it is possible that the radiator can't cool enough at 170 but needs water of +/- 200... a certain working temp which will install itself....( heat generated = radiator heat loss )
with ambient air of 80 the radiator can cool 30 % more with 200 than on 170....

the 170 thermstat will open fully a bit sooner but if the radiator can't follow in capacity the temp will raise to 200 ... at that moment it is the same as if you where driving with a 200 thermostat...both are fully open , max water flow... all up to the radiator...

:eek: :D
 
Prof said:
In my humble opinion:

1. Gauges vary wildly...

2. There is nothing wrong with a 200 degree running temperature.

3. Sixth gear seems to solve all temperature problems.



1. I have checked mine with a thermal heat gun. It is within 2 degrees.

2. I payed for a PCM that boasted cooler temps, 25 degrees hotter is a loss of performance.

3. I can't run 6th gear in traffic, and I like peeling out from redlights when challenged:D :D :D
 
mopower1958 said:
1. I have checked mine with a thermal heat gun. It is within 2 degrees.

2. I payed for a PCM that boasted cooler temps, 25 degrees hotter is a loss of performance.

3. I can't run 6th gear in traffic, and I like peeling out from redlights when challenged:D :D :D

i can't see how a PCM can give cooler temps... :confused: :dontknow: except by switching electric fan(s)... :dontknow:
 
belgiumbarry said:
let's also consider that besides electric fans ( and the one on the engine ) the 170 thermostat is only a device ( as the stock one ) which opens in function of temperature up to a max . At that point the max flow can pass generated by the waterpump.
Now generated heat must be lost trough our radiator who can do this with his capacity in which one factor is the heat difference water-ambient air.

So if we produce that much heat it is possible that the radiator can't cool enough at 170 but needs water of +/- 200... a certain working temp which will install itself....( heat generated = radiator heat loss )
with ambient air of 80 the radiator can cool 30 % more with 200 than on 170....

the 170 thermstat will open fully a bit sooner but if the radiator can't follow in capacity the temp will raise to 200 ... at that moment it is the same as if you where driving with a 200 thermostat...both are fully open , max water flow... all up to the radiator...

:eek: :D

Huh? Why are my two F'ing trucks different! LOL they have the same stuff.
Iif anything you could argue the QC runs hotter cause its pulling more wieght around.. but its the coolest running of the two. Its at 170 ALL THE TIME . Before the flash the QC was at 200 also. The flash did nothing for the RC. And it IS WORKING cause fans running! Did I miss something?:dontknow:
 
nycstev said:
Huh? Why are my two F'ing trucks different! LOL they have the same stuff.
Iif anything you could argue the QC runs hotter cause its pulling more wieght around.. but its the coolest running of the two. Its at 170 ALL THE TIME . Before the flash the QC was at 200 also. The flash did nothing for the RC. And it IS WORKING cause fans running! Did I miss something?:dontknow:

are those electric fans installed afterworths ? and the same ? :dontknow:
isn't the average rpm's higher with RC than QC ??? shift sooner...:p :D
Steve , can be alot of things... rich or lean... a lean engine is hotter ! :eek:
 
Last edited:
belgiumbarry said:
are those electric fans installed afterworths ? and the same ? :dontknow:
isn't the average rpm's higher with RC than QC ??? shift sooner...:p :D
Steve , can be alot of things... rich or lean... a lean engine is hotter ! :eek:
There are no electric fans. Both are stock factory hydraulic fans.
I have given the RPM theory some creedence. But when I started driving it like an auto ( real low shift points no revving) it still did the same thing. Even when idling would climb too 200. QC doesnt go past 175 even when idling.

Also thought about AF ratio too. My point was they were the same before I did any mods!!
 
belgiumbarry said:
i can't see how a PCM can give cooler temps... :confused: :dontknow: except by switching electric fan(s)... :dontknow:

The PCM turns the Fan on earlier!!!! Thats why if you change to a 170 T stat
you have to change the fan cycle otherwise it doesnt work properly. Whats the sense of having the Tstat opening at 170 if the fan isn't running!!:eek:
 
All of the above is understood, but here is the deal.

My 2006 RC has a 180 t-stat and a Boomer (XMetal) flash and when I am moving coolant temps vary between 180 degrees and 200 degrees (once engine is warmed up). When I am stopped or moving slow in traffic the temp spikes up to 200 degrees and stays there until I am underway again. I assume the stock fan is on high at that level.This performance is pretty much regardless of ambient outside air temps.

DC Performance Stage II PCM and 170 t-stat users seem to be reporting that even when stopped their coolant temps never rise over 180 degrees or so on the stock guage. I have to assume the fan is getting turned on sooner. I would just like to verify this as it contradicts info I have received from DC directly, and from other tuners who say that this will overload the stock power steering system.

I don't think 200 degre coolant temps are a big problem either, but would like to verify what fan control is possible with a flash. It would be great if DC or the other tuners could weigh in. Thanks, and I don't mean to beat the proverbial dead horse...
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top