JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Replaced all the speakers in my truck today with the Boston Acoustic SC series. I'm going to go over afew things I ran Into with the Install, and give my review on them.
6x9 Door Speakers
1.) The bit to remove the door handle is a T30 torx. Don't drop it into the door. Two Philips on the bottom of the door, one behind the handle, one on the sail panel. Just pull up on the hand grip and it pops off. Remove 2 wiring harness clips for windows door locks and mirrors. When installing door, put the bottom in the slots first, attach the harnesses, then guide the door lock stud in the hole. Push down on the handle and armrest to seat the door and screw it down.
2.) The 6x9's by B.A. have much smaller magnets and are more lightweight than the infinity oem.
3.) The bracket that looks like its made into around the oem speaker needs to be removed and installed on the new speakers. (Didn't realize this until second door.)
4.). The cructchfield connector used to clip into the factory wiring harness, fits the factory harness but is too small to fit the spades connectors on the B.A. speakers. Had to splice the supplied B.A. harness with the crutchfield harness.
5.) 2way or 3way 6x9's are a waste of money if running the factory headunit without dedicated aftermarket amp. The factory infinity amp, has a built in crossover to limit frequencies to door speakers to only mids. The B.A. 6x9's have built in crossovers for the tweeter and supertweeter, so it won't even get an audible signal with the factory power. I'm sure they will sound even more phenomenal when I install a 4 channel amp.
6.) Sound deadening is pretty decent on the doors, and Dynomat would be a difficult install because of all the channels to attach the door.
3-1/2 dash speakers.
1.) The front little panel against the windshield pops straight up after you get a screwdriver under it, then pulls out toward you. Sounds like its breaking. No worries.
2.) They do not make a harness to clip into the factory for the dash speakers. You have to cut it off and splice. Cut close to connectors because there is very little room to work against the windshield. Careful when stripping the wires, that you don't tap the glass on accident.
5-1/4 rear speakers
1.) You have to pull the rear tray and subwoofer out. 1 Philips on each side of sub. Pull it out and the third hidden screw to remove the tray tray is under it. After tray is popped out its easier to remove panel over 5-1/4.
2.) Slide the seat belt guide all the way to top, it makes popping the 5-1/4 panel easier.
3.) THE FACTORY SPEAKER IS A 3 BOLT. AFTERMARKETS HAVE 4. NOTHING LINES UP. You have to buy a separate adapter bracket or mark, drill, and tap. That's what I did.
4.). This was the only harness that was plug and play.
6x9 Door Speakers
1.) The bit to remove the door handle is a T30 torx. Don't drop it into the door. Two Philips on the bottom of the door, one behind the handle, one on the sail panel. Just pull up on the hand grip and it pops off. Remove 2 wiring harness clips for windows door locks and mirrors. When installing door, put the bottom in the slots first, attach the harnesses, then guide the door lock stud in the hole. Push down on the handle and armrest to seat the door and screw it down.
2.) The 6x9's by B.A. have much smaller magnets and are more lightweight than the infinity oem.
3.) The bracket that looks like its made into around the oem speaker needs to be removed and installed on the new speakers. (Didn't realize this until second door.)
4.). The cructchfield connector used to clip into the factory wiring harness, fits the factory harness but is too small to fit the spades connectors on the B.A. speakers. Had to splice the supplied B.A. harness with the crutchfield harness.
5.) 2way or 3way 6x9's are a waste of money if running the factory headunit without dedicated aftermarket amp. The factory infinity amp, has a built in crossover to limit frequencies to door speakers to only mids. The B.A. 6x9's have built in crossovers for the tweeter and supertweeter, so it won't even get an audible signal with the factory power. I'm sure they will sound even more phenomenal when I install a 4 channel amp.
6.) Sound deadening is pretty decent on the doors, and Dynomat would be a difficult install because of all the channels to attach the door.
3-1/2 dash speakers.
1.) The front little panel against the windshield pops straight up after you get a screwdriver under it, then pulls out toward you. Sounds like its breaking. No worries.
2.) They do not make a harness to clip into the factory for the dash speakers. You have to cut it off and splice. Cut close to connectors because there is very little room to work against the windshield. Careful when stripping the wires, that you don't tap the glass on accident.
5-1/4 rear speakers
1.) You have to pull the rear tray and subwoofer out. 1 Philips on each side of sub. Pull it out and the third hidden screw to remove the tray tray is under it. After tray is popped out its easier to remove panel over 5-1/4.
2.) Slide the seat belt guide all the way to top, it makes popping the 5-1/4 panel easier.
3.) THE FACTORY SPEAKER IS A 3 BOLT. AFTERMARKETS HAVE 4. NOTHING LINES UP. You have to buy a separate adapter bracket or mark, drill, and tap. That's what I did.
4.). This was the only harness that was plug and play.
Last edited:
