Sticky: Crash Course in Racing

VENOMOUS1 RACING

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Quick racing how-to from ‪#‎Venomous1Racing‬
Since it's that time of year Post vids, have fun and break records!
Posting here to help avoid typing it over and over in PMs and texts. Lol
Hope it helps y'all
Scott
Ok let's start.
Bring a helmet! Wear your seat belt! Now we have safety out of the way, you'll want absolutely nothing in your bed! Clean! You don't wanna drop a screw, nail, cd, ice chest or a penny on the precious 1320 (1/4 mile)!
Lower rear air pressure to 20, raise fronts to 45! Normal should be 32-34 psi.
If possible, go around water box, into track, then back into water box. This way your front tires aren't dripping water for you to spin on off the line If you can't, no biggie, go through water box, then stop with rear tires past water box. (Track attendant may guide you to where they'd like to to clean off tires/SMALL burnout. No smoke show!!!!!! Just clean off the water from water box. Smoke shows are for slicks to get rubber sticky. Street tires will get slipperier!! Just clean off and slowly approach the start line/tree. As you slowly approach tree/start line note the very top lights of tree. These tell you that you are at starting line. The first bulb is pre-stage. Light that bulb, wait for opponent, prepare yourself, and be ready. Once opponent lights his pre-stage bulb. Go forward very slightly again and you'll light the second light, the Staged light. Meaning you are ready for tree to count down and race to start. If you have no opponent do just as above without waiting for their staging lights. "Cutting a good light" also known as when you leave once tree is green to start, has NO effect on your time!!! Only matters if you are bracket racing, not for your personal best time. In other words, if tree counts down, and your not quite ready, take a second (1-2 seconds literally!!) then mash the gas! It won't affect your time as timer doesn't start till you move, not when light turns green
Clutch working-
You don't want to just drop the clutch at 2500 or whatever rpm till you have slicks! You'll just blow street tires off! I'd personally start at around 3000rpm and slip the clutch like you're taking off from a stop light fast, but don't wanna spin. Gradually release clutch, but obviously not too much. Same with 1-2 shift but a little faster ckutch release. Not a dump!! 2-3 and 3-4 shift you can power shift and dump clutch between gears. The main thing is getting through 1st and 2nd gears with little wheelspin, yet also never bogging engine. You want to leave the line as high as an rpm as your tires allow. Clutch and gas pedal being feathered for initial launch till full grip of tires, then full throttle. Make small decreases in tire pressure in rear and find the sweet spot for that particular tire compound.
If you get wheelhop, let out of gas and reapply gas. Next round let more air out of rear tires. Don't be afraid to use 15lbs.
Have fun, be safe, and practice makes perfect and everything you learn launching and shifting at the track will improve your street skills drastically
Enjoy and take lotsa vids
#Venomous1Racing
 
Heres Trainmans info that I have on my desktop.
What size and make of Drag radials? For sake of discussion I will assume the 390-40-17 M&H's. Here are a couple of tips to lower that 60' time. Get a Hurst Line Lock, it makes the burnout so much easier, and saves on rear end abuse (saves spiders, etc.). Keep air pressure at between 16.5 and 17.5lbs, no lower. Check tire pressure before each run. Let the truck cool a minimum of 30 minutes between runs, 45+ is even better. When ready to make a run, be sure to drive around the water box (don't get the front tires wet) then back into the water. Pull forward slightly, set the brakes, hold the Line Lock, put in 2nd gear, holding the line lock, rev to about 4,000 rpm and dump the clutch, hold the revs at about 5,000-5,500 for a count of 5 seconds, release the line lock, roll forward, put in 1st gear and do a small dry hop (tightens everything in the rear). Stage, and hold revs at between 3,500 and 3,800 for the best launch, smooth off the clutch and smooth down on the throttle....enjoy. 60' time should drop into the 1.70's and ET's will drop into the 12.30's-12.40's. Also remember 100lbs equals 1/10th. Bedcover-120 lbs, tailgate-60lbs, spare tire-90lbs, passenger seat-47 lbs (manual 04, but you'll have to cut the bracket to make it easy), sub-woofer 14 lbs, package tray-10.5 lbs, floormats, wipers another 5lbs.....and its all easy to put back...so no one will know.....that's nearly 350 lbs , so you're looking at a 12.0, with good conditions and track prep.
 
Don't forget to leave your fat girlfriend in the stands..that should lower your ET's also..:burnout:
 
Heres Trainmans info that I have on my desktop.
What size and make of Drag radials? For sake of discussion I will assume the 390-40-17 M&H's. Here are a couple of tips to lower that 60' time. Get a Hurst Line Lock, it makes the burnout so much easier, and saves on rear end abuse (saves spiders, etc.). Keep air pressure at between 16.5 and 17.5lbs, no lower. Check tire pressure before each run. Let the truck cool a minimum of 30 minutes between runs, 45+ is even better. When ready to make a run, be sure to drive around the water box (don't get the front tires wet) then back into the water. Pull forward slightly, set the brakes, hold the Line Lock, put in 2nd gear, holding the line lock, rev to about 4,000 rpm and dump the clutch, hold the revs at about 5,000-5,500 for a count of 5 seconds, release the line lock, roll forward, put in 1st gear and do a small dry hop (tightens everything in the rear). Stage, and hold revs at between 3,500 and 3,800 for the best launch, smooth off the clutch and smooth down on the throttle....enjoy. 60' time should drop into the 1.70's and ET's will drop into the 12.30's-12.40's. Also remember 100lbs equals 1/10th. Bedcover-120 lbs, tailgate-60lbs, spare tire-90lbs, passenger seat-47 lbs (manual 04, but you'll have to cut the bracket to make it easy), sub-woofer 14 lbs, package tray-10.5 lbs, floormats, wipers another 5lbs.....and its all easy to put back...so no one will know.....that's nearly 350 lbs , so you're looking at a 12.0, with good conditions and track prep.[/QUOTE]

at sea level........
 

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