T.V. Cable Adjustment

[DarkReign]

Hello, Ive been having some fairly hard shifts from 1-2, and 2-3 under light load (Im talking just barely moving the throttle and shifts happening at ~1800 rpm). To the point that every now and again you can feel it in the rear end clunk a little. Ive been reading that the T.V. Cable on the throttle body may need adjusted. The problem is most of the posts Ive found the procedure on no longer have photos accosiatied to them which makes knowing what they mean when it says to align A,B C,D etc. Can anyone post the needed photos please? Here is a link to the procedue in question: http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f7/kick-down-cable-17248/

 

[VPRPWRD]

Is it ok that I help this guy out Scott? I want to make sure I'm doing everything to your satisfaction.....

ADJUSTMENTS - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE



1 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
2 - CABLE BRACKET
3 - THROTTLE BODY LEVER
4 - ACCELERATOR CABLE
5 - SPEED CONTROL CABLE


A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable (1) will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever (3) from the idle position. Proper adjustment will allow simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to either move ahead of, or lag behind the lever on the throttle body.


ADJUSTMENT VERIFICATION



1 - TRANSMISSION SHIFTER CABLE
2 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
3 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFTER CABLE
4 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFTER CABLE BRACKET RETAINING BOLT (1 OR 2)
5 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE BRACKET RETAINING BOLT
6 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
7 - TRANSMISSION FLUID LINES


Turn ignition key to OFF position.
Remove air cleaner.
Verify that lever on throttle body is at curb idle position. Then verify that the transmission throttle lever is also at idle (fully forward) position.



1 - THROTTLE LINKAGE
2 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE LOCKING CLIP
3 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE


Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever.
Compare position (B) of cable end to attachment stud on throttle body lever:
Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039 in.) in either direction (B)(Throttle Valve Cable at Throttle Linkage).
If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment procedure.
Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
If both levers move simultaneously from idle to half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is correct.
If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents transmission lever from returning to closed position, cable adjustment will be necessary.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE



1 - THROTTLE LINKAGE
2 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE LOCKING CLIP
3 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE


Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
Remove air cleaner if necessary.
Disconnect cable end (3)(Throttle Valve Cable at Throttle Linkage) from attachment stud on throttle lever (1). Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull cable off.
Verify that transmission throttle lever is in fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.
Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position. This will unlock the cable and allow for readjustment.
Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B) to remove any slack in the cable. Pulling too tight will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to move out of its idle position, which will result in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment. Slide the sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter (1mm).
While holding the T.V. cable in the set position push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position. This will lock the present T.V. cable adjustment.
NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment.

Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle bellcrank lever (C).
Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously.

 

[Theol55]

Very Nice Andy!

 

[DarkReign]

Thanks for getting that to me so quick. Also, I apologize if this isnt the area to ask these types of questions, still trying to figure out where things are on the site. I hope it doesnt get you into trouble or anything but I really appreciate it!

 

[VPRPWRD]

Thanks for getting that to me so quick. Also, I apologize if this isnt the area to ask these types of questions, still trying to figure out where things are on the site. I hope it doesnt get you into trouble or anything but I really appreciate it!

It's not a problem. If you need anything else let me know.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Thanks for getting that to me so quick. Also, I apologize if this isnt the area to ask these types of questions, still trying to figure out where things are on the site. I hope it doesnt get you into trouble or anything but I really appreciate it!

Perfect place for questions bud. There's some smart assery (ha) going on lately but, hey it's the webs. Lol
The above procedure is accurate "by the book" but from sounds of it you may have a shift kit and possible stall torque converter installed.
I find often you'll have to adjust cable one notch at a time to find correct downshifting/up shifting sweet spot.
In lay terms, pop white clip from TV cable on Throttle body but don't remove. Just enough to let cable position adjust. Note/mark current position first so you know which want you are going while adjusting. Very fast, simple process. Try, adjust, drive, repeat.

 

[6speedquadcab]

Andy, did you just ride off on a unicorn with a rainbow trail and fly off to neverland after this?

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

Andy, did you just ride off on a unicorn with a rainbow trail and fly off to neverland after this?

unicorns aren't real, you have to fly off on a PEGASUS………...

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

unicorns aren't real, you have to fly off on a PEGASUS………...

Pegasus is the :driver:
Shit!

 

[DarkReign]

Perfect place for questions bud. There's some smart assery (ha) going on lately but, hey it's the webs. Lol
The above procedure is accurate "by the book" but from sounds of it you may have a shift kit and possible stall torque converter installed.
I find often you'll have to adjust cable one notch at a time to find correct downshifting/up shifting sweet spot.
In lay terms, pop white clip from TV cable on Throttle body but don't remove. Just enough to let cable position adjust. Note/mark current position first so you know which want you are going while adjusting. Very fast, simple process. Try, adjust, drive, repeat.

I kind of figured that was the case, but on the old Forum I frequent for VW's posting in the wrong form is like being issued a death sentence.

I'm kind of wondering if a shift kit hasn't been installed, but I can't contact the previous owner so I'm kind of at a loss on some of the mod's that have been done. Wish there was a way to tell, because since I've bought the truck I've wondered if it was tuned and had a shift kit in it. But of course, there's no easy way to tell (that I'm aware of) . I figure I'll start with the cable though and see if it improves some.

In the interest of making sure the P.O. didn't over adjust the cable, would it be possible to let the slack out of the cable so that the throttle lever on the trans is all the way in? That way I know that end is all the way at the correct idle location. Or is it one of those designs where the idle location on the trans doesn't have a hard stop location and just keeps unwinding? (Hope I explained that well enough lol)

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I kind of figured that was the case, but on the old Forum I frequent for VW's posting in the wrong form is like being issued a death sentence.

I'm kind of wondering if a shift kit hasn't been installed, but I can't contact the previous owner so I'm kind of at a loss on some of the mod's that have been done. Wish there was a way to tell, because since I've bought the truck I've wondered if it was tuned and had a shift kit in it. But of course, there's no easy way to tell (that I'm aware of) . I figure I'll start with the cable though and see if it improves some.

In the interest of making sure the P.O. didn't over adjust the cable, would it be possible to let the slack out of the cable so that the throttle lever on the trans is all the way in? That way I know that end is all the way at the correct idle location. Or is it one of those designs where the idle location on the trans doesn't have a hard stop location and just keeps unwinding? (Hope I explained that well enough lol)

Yessir go ahead and go one notch towards firewall and see what that does. It may too much taught ness on cable. What's your location?

 

[DarkReign]

Yessir go ahead and go one notch towards firewall and see what that does. It may too much taught ness on cable. What's your location?

Awesome, I will try that tonight and see what she does.

I'm in Fredericksburg Va. Basically right between Washington DC and Richmond Va, if you follow along I-95.

 

[DarkReign]

I figured Id mention that I adjusted the cable and ut seems to have improved the shifts a little bit. I still think it may have a shift kit in it but is there anyway to tell exactly?

Also, a little off subject, is there a way to scan the ecu and see if the truck is tuned?

 

[572mopar]

if it shifts as hard as you say it does then be a proud transmission owner lol, adjusting the cable will change the rpm and mph at which the tranny shifts, too tight and it wont upshift and too loose and it will just shift 1st 2nd 3rd almost immediatly. its possible it may have the wrong fluid that lets it shift hard and fast but the overdrive unit will lack the lube its designed to use and wear it out, atf4 is what suppose to be used.

 

[dodgeman324]

Tranny slipping or t.v. cable?

Hey guys. So, I've been playing with my T.V. cable and haven't been able to really get it right. I know if I pull it (the sheath around cable) away from firewall, it was shifting way too early to the higher gears, and of course towards the firewall shifted only after getting higher up in the rpm range ( I may have that backwards, bear with me). Now, with either direction, I still feel extreme "slipping", to best call it. The slipping is only felt in gears 2 and 3 to say it best. I know that 1st is truly in gear completely, as if the torque converter is locked up, and 4th also feels strong when under light acceleration such as on a highway. If I want to get lively, and go about half-throttle from a stop-light, it'll take off very well, then immediately when it shifts to 2nd, speed may continue to slightly increase but you can very definitely feel slipping in there and you can even floor it at that point and the rpm's will raise a lot but the speed increasing is not matching what it should be.

So, my big wonder is if my 2nd and 3rd gears in the auto tranny are shot, or if the wrong fluid is in there. Right after getting the truck I did check fluid levels and the transmission is over filled in my opinion, but I assume there is no way to find out if ATF4 was used, except doing a full flush and empty and filling it myself with ATF4. So, last question, assuming the fluid is wrong, or contaminated, or just overfilled. Has this destroyed my transmission permanently, or will a flush and fill with actual ATF4 to the proper level, save the transmission and allow it to work properly again? Long story short, I'm very pissed with the previous dealership and whatever shotty service station they took this truck to for maintenance before listing it for sale. This transmission issue isn't the only thing I've come across since getting the truck back at beginning of January.

 

[mopar-or-no-car]

Hey guys. So, I've been playing with my T.V. cable and haven't been able to really get it right. I know if I pull it (the sheath around cable) away from firewall, it was shifting way too early to the higher gears, and of course towards the firewall shifted only after getting higher up in the rpm range ( I may have that backwards, bear with me). Now, with either direction, I still feel extreme "slipping", to best call it. The slipping is only felt in gears 2 and 3 to say it best. I know that 1st is truly in gear completely, as if the torque converter is locked up, and 4th also feels strong when under light acceleration such as on a highway. If I want to get lively, and go about half-throttle from a stop-light, it'll take off very well, then immediately when it shifts to 2nd, speed may continue to slightly increase but you can very definitely feel slipping in there and you can even floor it at that point and the rpm's will raise a lot but the speed increasing is not matching what it should be.

So, my big wonder is if my 2nd and 3rd gears in the auto tranny are shot, or if the wrong fluid is in there. Right after getting the truck I did check fluid levels and the transmission is over filled in my opinion, but I assume there is no way to find out if ATF4 was used, except doing a full flush and empty and filling it myself with ATF4. So, last question, assuming the fluid is wrong, or contaminated, or just overfilled. Has this destroyed my transmission permanently, or will a flush and fill with actual ATF4 to the proper level, save the transmission and allow it to work properly again? Long story short, I'm very pissed with the previous dealership and whatever shotty service station they took this truck to for maintenance before listing it for sale. This transmission issue isn't the only thing I've come across since getting the truck back at beginning of January.

The auto in the QC is for sure the weak link. fluid, filter change and a band adjustment. If your lucky it may be ok. Its not IF for a rebuild its WHEN...

 

[dodgeman324]

Thanks, I live in Tulsa, Oklahoma, so no special transmission or even race type shops around here, but would you suggest getting transmission work done at the chain stores like AAMCO, or finding a smaller locally owned transmission shop?

As for rebuild time, I may just choose to convert to the 6-speed at that point. As much as I love the convenience of an auto, I know they all fail before any manual would.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I can help you with either a built 48re or 6 speed swap boss. Feel free to holler at me. Right down 35 in Waco
[email protected]

 

[dodgeman324]

So I've been playing with the TV cable, at different notches each time and I notice how it changes the shift points, but it never solved my 2 gear issue. So, further reading and Youtube watching, I decided to take the self band tightening, at least the front one, since the adjustment screw is on the outside of transmission. So, yesterday, I tightened that sucker down, however, it kept turning and turning, and it literally felt like it was going to keep going and then drop inside the transmission so I backed off, and left just enough to tighten the locking nut on it sufficiently. (The video's all say to tighten the Torx-40 screw all the way in to 72 on torque wrench, then you back it off a certain number turns based on transmission model, 48re back off 1 and 1/2 turns). Now, however, while second gear seems to not be slipping near as bad, my transmission very quickly and sharply hunts for second during light to moderate acceleration, basically feels like it quickly shifts to second, then 1st, then 2nd, then 1st, then finally goes into second. All that shifting happens right at about one second in duration, but it's enough to worry me about what's happening inside the tranny, so I'm very light and granny-like with driving, which is no fun.

On a side unrelated gripe, I just changed all my brake pads to EBC Greenstuff this weekend and my brakes are still squeaky, WTH! What is wrong with our brakes to make them squeal, it's embarrassing. Do I need to change rotors too? I mean it can only be pads or rotors, so I've done pads, so that leaves rotors, right. Ugh!

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Try replacing solenoids inside trans. That's a sign they're on the way out. Always replace rotors/pads together boss. You're squeaking because pads aren't mating 100% to worn rotor.