T.V. Cable Adjustment

Well the rotor is still in great shape, not worn, well of course it's worn, but not looking like it is anywhere close to a time of being replaced. But, yes, that is my last resort I'll have to take, I HATE squeaky brakes, especially on such a nice truck. I could understand if I am driving a $500 car around. Haha.
 
Well the rotor is still in great shape, not worn, well of course it's worn, but not looking like it is anywhere close to a time of being replaced. But, yes, that is my last resort I'll have to take, I HATE squeaky brakes, especially on such a nice truck. I could understand if I am driving a $500 car around. Haha.

A few things to try out. Did you grease the backs of the pads? Not sure if the ebc pads come with grease or not. Did you sand the rotors to remove any glazing? I usually use a red pad on my right angle die grinder to do this before new pads on any car I have.
 
Thanks Blazin for the tips. Curious questions: First, the squeaking is only when braking, just like the typical brake squeal when coming to a stoplight, not an occasional squeak as if the pad is loose, so can you enlighten me on how putting grease on the back of the pad can help with the squeak from the contact between pad and rotor during braking? Second, I don't have the die grinder option, or sandpaper, but would taking the rotors to auto parts store and have them turned do the same thing?

Side note, back to transmission. Yesterday I did some more adjustments on the TV cable, but here comes my stupid moment. :eek: When I bought the truck back on Dec 31st, I failed to check the transmission fluid level, and then the couple times I've been working under hood, I may have checked but never properly did it while engine was warm and running (idle). So, yesterday, I checked and my transmission was overfilled, by a lot. The "bleeping" dealership is yet again making me really mad, they, or their service shop, just threw fluid in there without checking levels. So, I sucked out about a quart or two of fluid and then went for a drive. Now, the transmission was instantly working better, but that 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are still weird. Question for yall 48RE's, how hard and quick does the shift to 2nd feel when under WOT? Can the truck bark the tires going to second with the auto? I experienced that lastnight for the first time, but didn't know if it was supposed to, or if it's a clunky shift and not right. I still suspect I'm going to need to spend my upcoming bonus on a full transmission service though, as I have a gut feeling the damage has already been done. Anyways, that is that.
 
Thanks Blazin for the tips. Curious questions: First, the squeaking is only when braking, just like the typical brake squeal when coming to a stoplight, not an occasional squeak as if the pad is loose, so can you enlighten me on how putting grease on the back of the pad can help with the squeak from the contact between pad and rotor during braking? Second, I don't have the die grinder option, or sandpaper, but would taking the rotors to auto parts store and have them turned do the same thing?

Side note, back to transmission. Yesterday I did some more adjustments on the TV cable, but here comes my stupid moment. :eek: When I bought the truck back on Dec 31st, I failed to check the transmission fluid level, and then the couple times I've been working under hood, I may have checked but never properly did it while engine was warm and running (idle). So, yesterday, I checked and my transmission was overfilled, by a lot. The "bleeping" dealership is yet again making me really mad, they, or their service shop, just threw fluid in there without checking levels. So, I sucked out about a quart or two of fluid and then went for a drive. Now, the transmission was instantly working better, but that 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are still weird. Question for yall 48RE's, how hard and quick does the shift to 2nd feel when under WOT? Can the truck bark the tires going to second with the auto? I experienced that lastnight for the first time, but didn't know if it was supposed to, or if it's a clunky shift and not right. I still suspect I'm going to need to spend my upcoming bonus on a full transmission service though, as I have a gut feeling the damage has already been done. Anyways, that is that.


I made this mistake as well.. CHECK FLUID IN NEUTRAL WITH E-BRAKE ON!! Not that Ive done this or anything..lol
 
In neutral? Isn't being in park going to give the same result? Also, to my previous question, is getting my rotors turned going to achieve the same result as your sanding you did with angle die grinder?
 
In neutral? Isn't being in park going to give the same result? Also, to my previous question, is getting my rotors turned going to achieve the same result as your sanding you did with angle die grinder?

No park is not the same. I read somewhere the 48re trans pump does not run in park. It needs to be in neutral to check fluid level and hot like a 20min drive hot. Trust me I did it too and actually siphoned a quart of fluid out only to find out I had to put it back in.

You will get a better result by getting the rotors cut. If they aren't to thin to be cut. You can sand them by hand too if you dont have a drill or or die grinder. You just need to get the old pad glazing off.
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top