thinking of getting some slicks

BLACK10

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talked to John and he suggested the same tire that patrick and mike use
so for you guys here are some questions.Is shaving the rear calipers down or removing them still the only options as far as wheel fitment, if so what rim are you guys using. I have boomers 2-4 lowering kit on as well so do you think there will be any clearance issues ? that is all I can think of for now but any help from the R&D team would be appriciated....
 
As for the tire, it is 16" and there is 2 ways of doing it.

#1 - you shave or remove the caliper
or
#2 - you get a parts list from FstJack and redo the entire axle with capabilities of running any size wheel (costs about 3k, right jack?)

As for wheels, you can go the CCW route that mike went (about 850 for the set of 2) or I have a local shop that made mine (I also sold boomer a new set) that runs about 400 for the set

I have the 1-2" drop kit with no problems, but don't know about the 2-4 kit, maybe boomer can chime in on that. The slicks/wheel combo is approx the same as factory, but you have to take the 'squat' factor in also, so if your fender is real close to the tire now, then you might have clearance issues and might want to go with the 30x14.5x16 or 30x14x16 (if you have 4.11:1 gears, and don't mind a D.O.T slick)

thanks

RedSrt007
 
RedSrt007 said:
As for the tire, it is 16" and there is 2 ways of doing it.

#1 - you shave or remove the caliper
or
#2 - you get a parts list from FstJack and redo the entire axle with capabilities of running any size wheel (costs about 3k, right jack?)

As for wheels, you can go the CCW route that mike went (about 850 for the set of 2) or I have a local shop that made mine (I also sold boomer a new set) that runs about 400 for the set

I have the 1-2" drop kit with no problems, but don't know about the 2-4 kit, maybe boomer can chime in on that. The slicks/wheel combo is approx the same as factory, but you have to take the 'squat' factor in also, so if your fender is real close to the tire now, then you might have clearance issues and might want to go with the 30x14.5x16 or 30x14x16 (if you have 4.11:1 gears, and don't mind a D.O.T slick)

thanks

RedSrt007

To redo the rear axle assembly with different brakes and axles, locker/spook ect. it will run 4200.00 - 4700.00 using Mark Williams parts. That includes welding on the new ends and straightning the housing after welding.
 
rear changes?? Dana 60

You also can call my friend Matt at Bears Performance (336) 333-9889 he did the rear for my dart Dana 60 complete!!
 
I have Boomer's adjustment shackles for the 2/4 drop....don't know if there will be issues with out them....?...
 
Mikey.....how did u pull that miracle to get those slicks? The dude told me that they are backordered til 2010! well not quite that long...but..I figured you might know of a hookup!
 
Blakewilder said:
Mikey.....how did u pull that miracle to get those slicks? The dude told me that they are backordered til 2010! well not quite that long...but..I figured you might know of a hookup!

Contact M&H directly through the forum here....talk to John...are you grinding calipers yet....?.....takes time....
 
Nowwhat i know you get a million questions on the board but can you post some pics, of your slick, rotor shave setup, that is if you have pics laying around, if not no worries..
 
Viper7777 said:
Nowwhat i know you get a million questions on the board but can you post some pics, of your slick, rotor shave setup, that is if you have pics laying around, if not no worries..

let me see.....

here is a pic of the caliper before and my wheels with my old cheater slick....if less than 600 rwhp try the M&H drag radial on a 17" wheel....very little if any grinding...
 

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Texas Yellow Fever said:
Speaking of all that did anyone ever call or go by Stockton wheel to see if they can take care of this caliper clearance problem?


the inner diamter of a steel wheel appears to be narrower than an aluminum wheel....my 16's are 15 5/8" inside....
 
Nowwhat said:
look at a picture of a steel wheel....for strength the barrel of the steel wheel has a narrow diameter.....the aluminum wheel does not....

http://www.stocktonwheel.com/light_truck_wheels.htm

scroll down and look at the pic of the power wagon wheel....note how narrow the center of the wheel is....

So the answer is we haven't called and talked to them, f*** it I will.
 
Texas Yellow Fever said:
So the answer is we haven't called and talked to them, f*** it I will.

Ok, I called Staockton Wheel, they can't fix the problem. I will say though that the guy I spoke with was extremely knowledgable about our trucks and actually was a pleasure to talk to. If anyone needs wheel work done, you might want to check them out. They also offer powercoating, chrome, wheel repair etc...
 
Texas Yellow Fever said:
Ok, I called Staockton Wheel, they can't fix the problem. I will say though that the guy I spoke with was extremely knowledgable about our trucks and actually was a pleasure to talk to. If anyone needs wheel work done, you might want to check them out. They also offer powercoating, chrome, wheel repair etc...



heehheeee......why don't you ever listen.....:D
 
Texas Yellow Fever said:
Hey, if it had come out the other way you wouldn't be talking shit now would you...? The answer is ALWAYS no if you don't pose the question...


Yep if I wasn't right I would have been wrong.....:D
 

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