those stock oil lines

[Outlawl]

UPDATE:

after 2900 miles since last oil change /cooler line swap, I now have that increasing whine (oil pressure buildup ?) comes from the area of the cooler line/oil filter area. My hearing isn't the greatest but I have had it confirmed from friends that the noise is coming from that area.

the tech who installed my cooler lines crossed the lines ( ie: upper now goes to lower)

I also have had the Check gauges light come on after a sudden drop in oil pressure, this has happened twice only recently.

I am about to change my oil again, should I swap the cooler lines so Upper goes to Upper ?

 

[moparracing]

i don't think it matters, but it can't hurt either....... i matched the line connections on mine when i replaced 'em:

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33660&highlight=lines

 

[Outlawl]

Yup, I paid too much labor and the dealership practically vandalised my car.

Never again.

Anyhow, do I need thread tape or anything for the fittings ?

I think I will swap them back on this oil change. which set would be easier to swap ? the ones on the diffuser or the ones on the oil cooler ( in terms of "reachability")


EDIT: which connections are easier to reach with a wrench.

 

[ZCx]

UPDATE:

after 2900 miles since last oil change /cooler line swap, I now have that increasing whine (oil pressure buildup ?) comes from the area of the cooler line/oil filter area. My hearing isn't the greatest but I have had it confirmed from friends that the noise is coming from that area.

the tech who installed my cooler lines crossed the lines ( ie: upper now goes to lower)

I also have had the Check gauges light come on after a sudden drop in oil pressure, this has happened twice only recently.

I am about to change my oil again, should I swap the cooler lines so Upper goes to Upper ?

its your oil pump by-pass valve causein the whine, man.

there is a thread on it in the Exotic Endine Development, EED, section, with photos of the new valve.
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[moparracing]

Anyhow, do I need thread tape or anything for the fittings ?
I think I will swap them back on this oil change. which set would be easier to swap ? the ones on the diffuser or the ones on the oil cooler ( in terms of "reachability")
EDIT: which connections are easier to reach with a wrench.

no tape needed....

the ones under you CAI box would probably be easiest with the air box removed....

the noise is likely your oil pump by-pass valve, though i never had a problem with mine.

 

[scottstoy]

I have had to change my lines about 3 times, one blew off on a trip to ky had to have a flat bed wrecker come pick me up, that was an ordeal, i wouldnt let the driver hook up the truck or drive it on i told him when i had the orange daytona truck they put a nice crease in the front air dam while:rock: :argh: putting it on a truck, so i drove it onto the truck and tied it done and followed them to the dealer and drove it off the truck, anyways the dealer could not get the part in for three days, so i had them rig it up w hose clamps that only lasted about 5 miles till they blew off but long enough to get to a radiator shop and have them custom make me a set, better than oem but they are beginning to leak now, go with stinkers........................................................

 

[Outlawl]

Thanks for the input, its why I love this forum.

Sounds like changing the oil and filter could be a temporary fix, with replacing the oil pump by-pass valve.

I am wondering if my oil pump needs to be replaced as i am at 78k+ miles.

BTW I saw a '05-06' quad cab with nightrunner rims at the Eureka Target today. I think its the 3rd one I have seen in my area (far left coast).

Edit: I might just skip swapping the cooler lines as I don't have the AN wrenches.

 

[Cowboy-Up]

I have Stinkers oil lines , and i have NO problems at all. Highley recommend.

 

[moparracing]

I might just skip swapping the cooler lines as I don't have the AN wrenches.

i didn't use any, standard wrenches work just fine.

 

[mr. anderson]

you don't need to use wrenches, just use a standard screw driver and pry the E clip out. after the E clip is out you can wiggle the fitting out of the screw in fitting. it fits into the screw in fitting with a o-ring.

 

[moparracing]

you don't need to use wrenches, just use a standard screw driver and pry the E clip out. after the E clip is out you can wiggle the fitting out of the screw in fitting. it fits into the screw in fitting with a o-ring.

true if you're putting in replacement oem's, but you need wrenches with stinker's lines that he had the dealership put in (post 35)........