Those that bought DTS axles

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DTS recommended axle break in procedure for new gear sets


There are some things that need to be done in order the have a good service life of your gear set.

DO NOT use any type of synthetic oil during break in. We recommend a good name brand petroleum based 85w-140 gear lube.

If your gear set is noisy , you need to recheck your set up(aftermarket gearsets are not guaranted to be quiet)
If you have any questions feel free to call.

BREAK IN FOR STREET USE
(85w-140 gear lube gl-5 based) When you first get your gear set installed, check to make sure you have oil in the axle before you drive the vehicle, over filling to the point that oil runs out of the fill plug is a good level. Take the vehicle out for a test drive to see if you have any noise from the gearset. If you have noise (DO NOT CONTINUE TO DRIVE).
If you have no noise you may continue on you first break in drive. Break in consist of a series of three thirty mile drives. Letting the rear end cool down completly between drives . Drive easily between 45 and 65mph, avoid prolonged stops and hard acceleration. After the three initial break in drives, you are good to drive up to 100 miles at a time, after 500 miles the gear lube should be changed.

now this is for the gear sets that they sell, but will go along with our complete axle assemblies.

Also Rob at DTS is putting together a small install kit for our axles.

It should consist of a new lower plate, break lines of such, and I need to find out about the e brake cable.

The reason for the new lower plate and u bolts is our stock axles were 3 1/2 inches round, where the new axle is 3 inches round.

I should find out about this today.



I do want to thank everyone for entrusting me with thier thousands of $:D

and I hope we have many years of super service out of our axles.


anyone interested in an axle assembly or any other rear axle part, gears, carriers just give me a hollar, they set me up to get a little better price than retail for us buying so many axles.

I will say tho that the 4.88 set up may be more than unitrax's because DTS uses a complete new carrier assembly.
 
Stinker said:
The reason for the new lower plate and u bolts is our stock axles were 3 1/2 inches round, where the new axle is 3 inches round.

Okay, so what does that mean for those of us with a lowering kit?

It would seem that we would not only need new U-bolts but longer ones as well, plus new lowering blocks to accommodate the new bolt centers. True?
 
Ram From Hell said:
Okay, so what does that mean for those of us with a lowering kit?

It would seem that we would not only need new U-bolts but longer ones as well, plus new lowering blocks to accommodate the new bolt centers. True?


Hey catdaddy!!:D

Just got off the phone with Prof, he just picked his up and loves it!!

but you made a killer point!:rock:

the blocks "should " work fine, i really dont see them being affected.

the deal is the stock axle tube was a half in larger in diameter, so instead of our u-bolts having a 3 1/2 spread they now have a 3 inch spread.

he is working on a new lower plate for this, but the blocks should remain the same.

but i will mention to him about some of ours being lowered , so the u bolts would need to be approximatly...................1 3/4 - 2 inches longer correct?



By the way guys, new info just in, Prof said after picking up his truck and talking with DTS that we have possibly save 150lbs in weight!!!

Being the old axle was larger in diameter tubes, rotors and brakes larger, and third member larger, we saved around 150 freaking pounds of weight!!!

Things just got a tad quicker

but Prof said he can tell no difference in the truck, no that is noise , ride, handling so on, but he also is 5 hours from home, so I am sure he will fill in more details later:rock:
 
Stinker said:
Hey catdaddy!!:D

Just got off the phone with Prof, he just picked his up and loves it!!

but you made a killer point!:rock:

the blocks "should " work fine, i really dont see them being affected.

the deal is the stock axle tube was a half in larger in diameter, so instead of our u-bolts having a 3 1/2 spread they now have a 3 inch spread.

he is working on a new lower plate for this, but the blocks should remain the same.

but i will mention to him about some of ours being lowered , so the u bolts would need to be approximatly...................1 3/4 - 2 inches longer correct?



By the way guys, new info just in, Prof said after picking up his truck and talking with DTS that we have possibly save 150lbs in weight!!!

Being the old axle was larger in diameter tubes, rotors and brakes larger, and third member larger, we saved around 150 freaking pounds of weight!!!

Things just got a tad quicker

but Prof said he can tell no difference in the truck, no that is noise , ride, handling so on, but he also is 5 hours from home, so I am sure he will fill in more details later:rock:

Yeah, with a 2" drop in back, we'll need to make that up in U-bolt length. The blocks might just need to be milled down to be a little narrower.

Nice that we save some weight! That weight was useful for traction, but being unsprung weight we're losing, it ought to help with handling. I'll have to keep that in mind when adjusting the QA1's.:D

If Prof's 5 hours from home, I hope that his gears are already broken in. Otherwise, that's going to be a lot of waiting between 30 minute break-in drives!:p
 
My two cents on axle break-in....

I second exactly what Stinker said, sans a few differences that probably don't matter.....I always do 4 trips, 15 minutes each, no more than 60mph, allowing cooling each time....standard lube, not synthetic...250 mile break-in and easy driving.....I've had zero issues with any vehicles as of yet, knock on wood...

Congrats to all of you on the new axles....
 
Big Perm said:
My two cents on axle break-in....

I second exactly what Stinker said, sans a few differences that probably don't matter.....I always do 4 trips, 15 minutes each, no more than 60mph, allowing cooling each time....standard lube, not synthetic...250 mile break-in and easy driving.....I've had zero issues with any vehicles as of yet, knock on wood...

Congrats to all of you on the new axles....


:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
yeah thats just off the paper DTS sent, thanks for the input bro:rock:
 
She is in her bay! About to get a cleaning and a loving rub-down.

Details...not much to offer yet:

Got back five minutes ago. Going out to roll around on the floor under the truck...

Ran fine...felt it release a couple of times on the trip back, also heard one...bang!...

The only thing I noticed is that the stock lugs don't fit...we will have to find some after market lug nuts to match the front.

I got the Wilwood...don't remember how many of you did too...but the rotors are drilled and slotted...damn...now I will have to find some front ones to match, my calipers are powder-coated red.

Only got on it once to merge into traffic...hit it hard in second...at about 25...two long black marks of equal length...some wheel hop...but I don't have the cal tracs on yet...

Rob does not have the package of nuts bolts, screws, ebrake, ubolts...etc...but he said he is only waiting on one part, and then he will get us all the part numbers and pictures.

She absolutely has better bite now, but still need more traction...the weight savings is well over a hundred pounds (their estimate) and could be as much as 150.

Looks really skinny but sexy!

More later. I have to go put my hands on her.

They said to drive it straight home at any speed I wanted...I asked about break-in and Rob said he had taken care of that...:eek: :eek: :eek:

He said it was really hot...didn't tell him that I had the VEC III at one of the lowest tunes...didn't want him to think that I didn't trust him...
 
Prof what lugs did they use on the back?......are they new studs just too long?.....easy fix there.....
 
Yeah, woulda been nice if they'd pressed in the right studs the first time.:(

Got to agree about the discs. I'd like to know where to find matching discs for the front too.:rock:
 
Some quick pics....

Picture007.jpg


Picture006.jpg


Picture002.jpg


Picture003.jpg


Picture004.jpg


Sorry everything is so dirty, but it snowed on the way over...hasn't been cleaned in six or seven weeks.

Tell me if you want some specific pics....

Will probably be caressing for a couple of hours...I will turn the garage PC on...so pm me if you have something you want a pic of...

Roy
 
How much was the install? Or how much time did it take?
 
Looks great Roy! I am happy it all worked out for you.

Will
 
Bone said:
How much was the install? Or how much time did it take?

They said that it was not an easy job...all they do is rear ends...but removing the old rear end was not easy...they said they usually just put a barrel under the rear end unbolt it and lift the vehicle off the barrel...but because of the springs being under the axle they had to do one end at a time and then they did the wrong side first (gas tank was a problem) so they had to cinch it back and do the other side first and swing the assembly out and away...they cautioned that due to the weight it took three big guys to hold up one end when they did the swing maneuver.

Expense: E-Brake cable kit $180
E-brake Stainless steel (optional) $105
Drum to Disk Conv kit, with:
Proportioning valve,
Residual Valve, Flex line and adapters $150

U-Bolts and other hardware $10

Labor $320

Everything came to about $800

Then the plane ticket, drive over and back, rental car back, hotel....

All toll I have about a $4500 rear end.

Cheap at any cost...because it is pretty!
 
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