tie rod

[ZCx]

does anybody know what the degree the taper is on the tie rod end on our trucks????

the part that goes into the spindle, that the nut goes on.

& if not, any one know how to figure out what the taper is????

thanks:rock::rock::rock:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Hey there bud,how it bees?
What yous can do is remove that there nut, put key in ignition and turn to on, No Start!!! Turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn each way a few times and find a nut the same size as tie rod nut and thread on till end of bolt is 1/8" below the nut and smack her a few times with a dead blow, or roofin hammer if need be.
To measure taper, get a angle indicator used for driveline angle correction or a simple protractor and straight edge and measure the angle measured between the normal shank end flat to where the taper ends. Have no clue really but I'd say like 20* or less for example?
Ifn any of Dat der made any since,lol.

Gots a speaker for ya next meet up. Apparently it's the amp or output from head unit

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Hey there bud,how it bees?
What yous can do is remove that there nut, put key in ignition and turn to on, No Start!!! Turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn each way a few times and find a nut the same size as tie rod nut and thread on till end of bolt is 1/8" below the nut and smack her a few times with a dead blow, or roofin hammer if need be.
To measure taper, get a angle indicator used for driveline angle correction or a simple protractor and straight edge and measure the angle measured between the normal shank end flat to where the taper ends. Have no clue really but I'd say like 20* or less for example?
Ifn any of Dat der made any since,lol.

Gots a speaker for ya next meet up. Apparently it's the amp or output from head unit

 

[HaroldD]

I'd guess 7 or 8 degrees.

Measure the large hole, small hole, and depth with a micrometer. Break out the geometry book.

Here's my best shot without any ritas onboard. Each side is a right triangle. I visualize the edge of the large hole end as the tip of the triangle, draw an imaginary line through the spindle metal toward the small hole end, then the length of your right angle end of the triangle is 1/2 of the difference between the two diameters.

tan (A) = 1/2(L-S)/T

where A is your angle, L is large diameter hole, S is small diameter hole, and T is thickness.



Lots of reamers in the off-road world to change the taper for axle swaps, etc.

does anybody know what the degree the taper is on the tie rod end on our trucks????

the part that goes into the spindle, that the nut goes on.

& if not, any one know how to figure out what the taper is????

thanks:rock::rock::rock:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I'd guess 7 or 8 degrees.

Measure the large hole, small hole, and depth with a micrometer. Break out the geometry book.

Here's my best shot without any ritas onboard. Each side is a right triangle. I visualize the edge of the large hole end as the tip of the triangle, draw an imaginary line through the spindle metal toward the small hole end, then the length of your right angle end of the triangle is 1/2 of the difference between the two diameters.

tan (A) = 1/2(L-S)/T

where A is your angle, L is large diameter hole, S is small diameter hole, and T is thickness.

Or a very accurate formualted mathmatical equation,lol. Thanks Harold:rock:

 

[HaroldD]

I didn't run any numbers through it - could be wrong, but figured the caliper measurements would be easier than directly measuring the angle.

Those reamers come in 1/2 degree increments, so you can't be off by much!

Or a very accurate formualted mathmatical equation,lol. Thanks Harold:rock:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

That's even better info to know! Although I still have no clue what Carl is after? Maybe making us some tubular A-Arms?:rock:

 

[05srt10carson]

To install:

Install the idler arms and retaining nuts and bolts. Tighten nuts to 155 Nm (115 ft. lbs.).
Install the center link on idler arm ball studs. Install ball stud nuts and tighten to 64 Nm (47 ft. lbs.).
Install new cotter pins.
Install the tie-rod end ball studs to the steering knuckle arms and center link. Tighten ball stud nuts to:
LD 9/16 nuts: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
HD 5/8 nuts: 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm)

Install new cotter pins.
Install the pitman arm on steering gear and tighten the retaining nut to 185 ft. lbs. (251 Nm).
Connect the drag link to the pitman arm and center link. Tighten the nuts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) then install new cotter pins.
Remove supports and carefully lower the vehicle. Check and adjust the wheel toe position.
Install the drag link and properly tighten the hardware.
Install the drag link to the right steering knuckle. Torque hardware to the given specification.
Install the tie rod to the left steering knuckle and drag link. Tighten the hardware to the correct specification.
Install the steering damper. Tighten the fastening hardware to the proper specification.
Lower the vehicle, center the steering wheel and adjust toe.
NOTE
Position the clamp on the sleeve so that the retaining bolt is on the bottom side. Tighten to specification.
Tie Rod Ends

Remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end. Discard the cotter pin.
Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle using an appropriate tie rod end remover.
Mark the outer tie rod jam nut on one side with a reference line for installation.
Hold the outer tie rod end with a wrench and loosen the tie rod end jam nut.
Back the tie rod end jam nut off ONE FULL TURN ONLY.
Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod spindle.

To install:

Clean the threads on the inner tie rod spindle (front wheel spindle connecting rod).
Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod until it bottoms on the jam nut.
Back the tie rod and jam nut out one full turn until the reference line is in the same position as before.
Place the outer tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle. Set the front wheels in a straight ahead position.
Install a new castellated nut onto the outer tie rod end stud.
Torque the nut to the proper specification.
Continue to tighten the castellated nut until a new cotter pin can be inserted through the hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin.
If required, repeat the procedure for the opposite side.
Check the alignment and set the toe adjustment to specification.
Torque the outer tie rod end jam nut to the proper torque.



Fig. Removing the tie rod end cotter pin

Removing the tie rod end cotter pin



Fig. Removing the tie rod end nut

Removing the tie rod end nut



Fig. Pressing out the tie rod end with a puller

Pressing out the tie rod end with a puller



Fig. Separating the tie rod from the steering knuckle

Separating the tie rod from the steering knuckle



Fig. Tie rod end components: jam nut (1), tie rod (2), tie rod end (3)

Tie rod end components: jam nut (1), tie rod (2), tie rod end (3)


NOTE
Only the outer tie-rod end can be removed from the heavy duty tie rods.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove cotter pin and retaining nut from the tie-rod end ball stud.
Remove tie-rod end at the steering knuckle or center link with Puller C-3894-A.
Loosen tie-rod sleeve clamp bolts and unthread the tie-rod end from the sleeve.



Fig. View of the puller (3) installed on the tie-rod end (5) and the clamp (1), adjustment sleeve (2) and seal (4)

View of the puller (3) installed on the tie-rod end (5) and the clamp (1), adjustment sleeve (2) and seal (4)

To install:

Thread the tie-rod end into sleeve.
Install tie-rod end on steering knuckle arm or enter link.
Install nut and tighten to:
LD 9/16 ball stud: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
HD 5/8 ball stud: 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm)

Install a new cotter pin.
Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.
Adjust the wheel toe position.

Back to Top