Towing @6000lbs in RC, bad idea?

J

_JB_

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Hey everyone,

I might *finally* be picking up an 06 RC and could really use it to tow 6000-6200lbs (car+trailer), 800 miles, going through the southern Appalachian Mountains (central Georgia and Alabama) as I'm moving soon.

I see lots of people towing this much, or more, with RCs but they never mention what hitch they use. A few people mention Curtus 13333 which is rated to 6000lbs without weight distribution hitches. I'd be using a U-Haul car trailer which has surge brakes and I was going to use a weight distributing hitch but according to U-Haul I cannot (https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Auto-Transporter-User-Instructions-121/):

"Weight distributing or sway control devices ARE NOT USED for towing an auto transport trailer. Towing a properly loaded auto transport trailer does not require these devices. These devices may have a negative effect on vehicle handling and braking and may restrict the operation of the trailer coupling mechanism."


So without a weight distributing hitch would this be a bad idea? The truck also has a 1-3" drop (not sure which springs).
 
No idea on the hitch type .. but I would definitely research and list to the experts .. the R/C’s where not built to tow and the Q/C where ! My thought especially thru mountain areas is better safe than sorry .
 
I'm thinking there's a thread on here

Viperhauler must have posted something somewhere!
 
Wifey said:
From another forum but maybe some info here. Viperhauler did have some input.

https://www.srt10forum.com/threads/trailer-hitch-for-srt10.15713/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest
Click to expand...

Thanks, I've already dug through VTCOA, SRT10Forums, and multiple Facebook groups. Viperhauler didn't mention if he used a weight distribution hitch or not while pulling 6000lbs. If these U-Haul trailers would allow a weight distribution hitch then I'd be ok. I've checked Budget and their trailer capacity is right at the limit of the car I'm towing, so I can't use them either.

Edit:
U-Hauls car trailers only have a single arm, so a WDH would not physically work.
 
Last edited:
Have you tried private messaging Viperhauler ?
Their is also a thread he posted not to long ago with his business website and a possible phone number ..
 
It appears that the weight your towing should be ok without the weight distribution hitch from things I found .. appears you may want to be more concerned with towing with a clutch type of vehicle and burning out the clutch and avoid chugging the motor ,,, especially the factory clutch on the 10’s . They are not rated for towing as you know !
Tongue weight is a big factor and weight distribution of the load . Drive slower for better stability if needed and use gears to control speed on the hills .
 
I haven't messaged Viperhauler since Wifely tagged him in this thread.

Stock clutch will hold fine, it isn't the weak link. 05 and 06 came with lower diff gears so towing is easier than 04s, don't try pulling in 6th, and like you said take it slow and easy.
 
Well whatever works out just make sure to be safe! That's what counts the most :cool:
 
_JB_ said:
Hey everyone,

I might *finally* be picking up an 06 RC and could really use it to tow 6000-6200lbs (car+trailer), 800 miles, going through the southern Appalachian Mountains (central Georgia and Alabama) as I'm moving soon.

I see lots of people towing this much, or more, with RCs but they never mention what hitch they use. A few people mention Curtus 13333 which is rated to 6000lbs without weight distribution hitches. I'd be using a U-Haul car trailer which has surge brakes and I was going to use a weight distributing hitch but according to U-Haul I cannot (https://www.uhaul.com/Tips/Towing/Auto-Transporter-User-Instructions-121/):

"Weight distributing or sway control devices ARE NOT USED for towing an auto transport trailer. Towing a properly loaded auto transport trailer does not require these devices. These devices may have a negative effect on vehicle handling and braking and may restrict the operation of the trailer coupling mechanism."


So without a weight distributing hitch would this be a bad idea? The truck also has a 1-3" drop (not sure which springs).
Click to expand...

I can answer any questions you have.
That hitch will work, I have it, you just need to watch your tongue weight, that is the most important thing. I would try to stay under 6,000 lb if possible. I tow my hellcat on a featherlite and never get above 5500lbs.
A weigh safe drop hitch with a gauge makes setting tongue weight easy.
WS6-2-1024x877.jpg
You do not need an electric trailer brake control since uhaul has surge brakes.

The big challenge will be that the truck is lowered. The front doesn't matter. Measure your height of the rear lowering blocks between the leaf spring and axle. If 2-3", you will bottom out.
Hopefully your truck has the rear bump stops changed out, if not, I would buy these and install, they need a little customization to fit. If you stock ones are torn off, you will hit the axle tube on the frame without any in there.
Screenshot_20230611_204229_Chrome.jpg

I added airlift slamair bags for towing, kit part#59113, but did need to change the bags to part# 50203.
59113_v0_1381868657__06754__67298.1706883140.1280.1280.jpg

Bad news; I do not think you will be able to put 500-600lb tongue weight on a lowered truck without bags or it will bottom out.
One option; You could remove the rear lowering blocks for the tow and put them back in later.....
Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.
Rob
 
Hellcat Hauler said:
I can answer any questions you have.
That hitch will work, I have it, you just need to watch your tongue weight, that is the most important thing. I would try to stay under 6,000 lb if possible. I tow my hellcat on a featherlite and never get above 5500lbs.
A weigh safe drop hitch with a gauge makes setting tongue weight easy.
View attachment 65520
You do not need an electric trailer brake control since uhaul has surge brakes.

The big challenge will be that the truck is lowered. The front doesn't matter. Measure your height of the rear lowering blocks between the leaf spring and axle. If 2-3", you will bottom out.
Hopefully your truck has the rear bump stops changed out, if not, I would buy these and install, they need a little customization to fit. If you stock ones are torn off, you will hit the axle tube on the frame without any in there.
View attachment 65521

I added airlift slamair bags for towing, kit part#59113, but did need to change the bags to part# 50203.
View attachment 65522

Bad news; I do not think you will be able to put 500-600lb tongue weight on a lowered truck without bags or it will bottom out.
One option; You could remove the rear lowering blocks for the tow and put them back in later.....
Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.
Rob
Click to expand...

Appreciate the info! However the truck I was going to buy sold, so I won't have to worry about this right now. I'll bookmark this info for future use!
 
Hellcat Hauler said:
I can answer any questions you have.
That hitch will work, I have it, you just need to watch your tongue weight, that is the most important thing. I would try to stay under 6,000 lb if possible. I tow my hellcat on a featherlite and never get above 5500lbs.
A weigh safe drop hitch with a gauge makes setting tongue weight easy.
View attachment 65520
You do not need an electric trailer brake control since uhaul has surge brakes.

The big challenge will be that the truck is lowered. The front doesn't matter. Measure your height of the rear lowering blocks between the leaf spring and axle. If 2-3", you will bottom out.
Hopefully your truck has the rear bump stops changed out, if not, I would buy these and install, they need a little customization to fit. If you stock ones are torn off, you will hit the axle tube on the frame without any in there.
View attachment 65521

I added airlift slamair bags for towing, kit part#59113, but did need to change the bags to part# 50203.
View attachment 65522

Bad news; I do not think you will be able to put 500-600lb tongue weight on a lowered truck without bags or it will bottom out.
One option; You could remove the rear lowering blocks for the tow and put them back in later.....
Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.
Rob
Click to expand...
Nice and detailed ,,,
 
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