Traction Under Boost or Spray

Prof

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Let's start to gather facts and experiences on this thread...soooo many of us are trying to solve this bite problem...contribute what you know, what you think, and no problem with "out of the box" ideas...

Silverback, Patrick, FstJack, NBT, all of you put your brains on this one...once all of the "Mikes" and Blake get their builds together we will all be scratching our heads on how to get the power to the pavement consistently.
 
Prof said:
Let's start to gather facts and experiences on this thread...soooo many of us are trying to solve this bite problem...contribute what you know, what you think, and no problem with "out of the box" ideas...

Silverback, Patrick, FstJack, NBT, all of you put your brains on this one...once all of the "Mikes" and Blake get their builds together we will all be scratching our heads on how to get the power to the pavement consistently.

This will work, or some thing like it:D

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5705&d=1162259601


And this will keep the body roll down :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watts_linkage
 
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Silver back and I discussed this in length, there is only one way to solve the problem of big hp on the trucks

Its a 4 link system, which will consist of moving in the frame rail, and a different rear axle.

The problem is not being able to get a large enough contack patch to the ground, with the inner frame rail and leaf spring set up being the limiting factor.

competition engineering and I cant for my life remember the man Silverback suggested, has everything to do it with.

But take into consideration this CAN be done and stil be streetable,I do plan on this after things get sorted out, hopefully by next fall.

But the fuel tank will have to be relocated to the bed witha fuel cell.

Narrow the rear axle and while you there you might as well get a 9 inch axle since so many lockers and axles are available.

Then cut and fab away at the frame and install a 4 link coil over system.

Other than that Mand H does offer a 16x14.5x30 which is only a tad shorter in heighth , which actually doesnt make a ton of difference, but does have a larger contact patch.

Also as Dave said you can go to a traction control system, but they do hurt the ET's a small amount.

You can also convert to a coiil over system, use locater bars instead of leaf springs, and a centering bar to center the axle, but by then you are closer to a 4 link, jsut a shorter version.

Basics is the front end needs to extend and stay there, adjustable shocks.
The rear axle needs to squat and not bounce downthe track
and as large a contact patch as possible
 
My answer... i just ordered a pair of OEM callipers.... go figure the pair was less than 200 bucks.....they are getting shaved....

ordered the nostalgia slicks from M&H...

looking through the rims right now....

go from there.:D
 
Stinker said:
Silver back and I discussed this in length, there is only one way to solve the problem of big hp on the trucks

Its a 4 link system, which will consist of moving in the frame rail, and a different rear axle.

The problem is not being able to get a large enough contack patch to the ground, with the inner frame rail and leaf spring set up being the limiting factor.

competition engineering and I cant for my life remember the man Silverback suggested, has everything to do it with.

But take into consideration this CAN be done and stil be streetable,I do plan on this after things get sorted out, hopefully by next fall.

But the fuel tank will have to be relocated to the bed witha fuel cell.

Narrow the rear axle and while you there you might as well get a 9 inch axle since so many lockers and axles are available.

Then cut and fab away at the frame and install a 4 link coil over system.

Other than that Mand H does offer a 16x14.5x30 which is only a tad shorter in heighth , which actually doesnt make a ton of difference, but does have a larger contact patch.

Also as Dave said you can go to a traction control system, but they do hurt the ET's a small amount.

You can also convert to a coiil over system, use locater bars instead of leaf springs, and a centering bar to center the axle, but by then you are closer to a 4 link, jsut a shorter version.

Basics is the front end needs to extend and stay there, adjustable shocks.
The rear axle needs to squat and not bounce downthe track
and as large a contact patch as possible


This IS the answer for those making big HP....not sure if we qualify Roy...for the moment...we will see if the rim/rubber solution does not fix our problem. On a side note the rear axle swap and a beefier rear end will be paramount after say about 800 ponies IMHO
 
you guys will be fine with a set of slicks.....Ill be fine if i dont spray. its when you have 200-300 hp hitting all at once on top of the 800 or so that we'll be starting with.....Mike was just learning how to launch his tank on spray but she let go too fast.....
 
IMO, we should absolutely BOMBARDE BF Goodrich, by phone and e-mail, with requests for 22" Drag radials...:dontknow: :D
 
Texas Yellow Fever said:
If this is the answer won't the factory PCM take care of it, if we didn't eliminate in the tune?
Heh heh...there's no traction control on these trucks.
Why do you think we're the burnout kings?
 
Kevan said:
Heh heh...there's no traction control on these trucks.
Why do you think we're the burnout kings?

I THINK at least on th QCs there's torque management in the factory PCM. I've been wrong before, but I divorced her...;)
 
Here is a few options the L guys have come up with... These are from Tim Skelton's website: www.timskelton.com/lightning

panhard_2.jpg


paul_terrys_panhard.jpg


droptail_rear_end.jpg


Looks like good setups using a Panhard bar. Some of these are made by Ruslow. More info to come...
 
What about moving the leafs to the inside of the frame rails, adding panhard bar, with some sort of longer traction bar/4 link.

That would allow the truck bed inner fenders to be tubbed and allow for a whider tire.

Without fully modifying the truck to strictly a track only?

Just a thought. I have seen some done back when i was in the truckin magazine scene.
 
What about simply swapping the entire QC rearend for a RC rearend?
The linear shock mount would have to be added to the frame, but no other major work aside from that.
Bolt on some CalTracs....
 
I have to agree with the shaving calipers, get some slick, and transfer of weight. The M&H Nostalgia tires are capable and were designed to handle THOUSAND'S of hp for the top fuel dragsters; which we are all well below the scale at this point.

I have launched @ 5-6k rpm with just dropping the clutch and hooked with NO tire spin, but the lack of weight transfer is the problem....

So since tires is not the problem, it is the transfer that needs to be dealt with. As stinker said, the front end needs to extend and the rear needs to squat to get the back planted to the tire (which WILL handle it with no problems..). So what options are there without going to extreme? Adjustable shocks on the front and rear and caltracs would be a good starting point. Next would be to dial in the suspension with spring rate changes in the front / rear; from there you can get into the fabrication of 4 link's, wishbone, etc....

my 2 cents

Patrick
 
About Time

Nowwhat said:

Wow, glad to see everyone is finally catching up:dontknow: Some things never change, they are only reinvented again:idea: This is what I have been posting for a year++++:p I now feel exhonerated:D :rock: :2in1:

Leading Arm Suspension ie: 60-64 chevy pu / Nascar
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5705&d=1162259601


Watts Liinkage ie: early Mada RX 7

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watts_linkage

Add a Panard bar and some coilsprings and you are set to go straight or go thru corners:burnout: :D
 
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Here is a thought.... If you have 700, 800+ HP and more importantly torque and you actaully bite, you better upgrade LOTS of stuff or you will be sorry. The big torque combined with the weight of our trucks can be deadly on the drivetrain.
 

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