Tranny Problems

LitemUp

LitemUp

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Need some help guys. I just started having some tranny problems.:mad:

1. it's hard to get into the gears.
2. it's not going into reverse.

I just recently changed the fluid in the tranny about a month ago to Mobil One ATF. And the truck has an center force clutch with up graded hydraulics. It also has an aftermarket shifter (X-metal).

please give a diagnosis.
 
cant help but wonder if the sudden change in oil may of "upset" your tranny every oil protects differently than others idk maybe..??? do you have your old OEM shifter??
 
It sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing.

This could be caused by the hydraulics not releasing the disk fully or the pressure plate having an internal problem and not releasing all the pressure on the disk.

It has nothing to do with the fluid in the gearbox.
 
FSTJACK said:
It sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing.

This could be caused by the hydraulics not releasing the disk fully or the pressure plate having an internal problem and not releasing all the pressure on the disk.

It has nothing to do with the fluid in the gearbox.
Click to expand...

Do you think I should change the hydraulics?
 
litem up do this first, take it by a local shop of your choice, you may even contact blackviper and have it done there, but have the system bleed and flushed, i would tell you how to do it, but its such a huge pain in the arse I aint doin it no mo, venom power took over a week to get his right and had to get oso to help him, its jsut a real big pain to do.

but tke it to a shop ,have it flush, take the sythetic crap completly out, sythetic fluid holds water, snythetic is only good for racing, go get some hi temp fluid like valvoline sytec good for over 500 degrees at autozone , buy the big bottle or two because they need to totally completly flush otu thesythetic stuff.
then if your clutch doesnt get any better its your pressure plate, the centerforce is know to over a period of time to loose a couple fingers , in other words it want clamp to the disc and release like it should
 
LitemUp said:
Sorry, its Prestone DOT 3 synthetic
Click to expand...


i put the same fluid in my truck and the heat breaks it down after 3-5k miles.

But one thing i noticed even now that i have the viper master and slave is that my reservoir is losing fluid. Actually it will run low in 3k miles. i have a leak im guessing but dont know where. Only place left is the slave but i gotta drop the trans to check it.


If you want instructions on how to bleed just give me a call bro and will walk you thru it. You need 2 people do it right.
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
litem up do this first, take it by a local shop of your choice, you may even contact blackviper and have it done there, but have the system bleed and flushed, i would tell you how to do it, but its such a huge pain in the arse I aint doin it no mo, venom power took over a week to get his right and had to get oso to help him, its jsut a real big pain to do.

but tke it to a shop ,have it flush, take the sythetic crap completly out, sythetic fluid holds water, snythetic is only good for racing, go get some hi temp fluid like valvoline sytec good for over 500 degrees at autozone , buy the big bottle or two because they need to totally completly flush otu thesythetic stuff.
then if your clutch doesnt get any better its your pressure plate, the centerforce is know to over a period of time to loose a couple fingers , in other words it want clamp to the disc and release like it should
Click to expand...
Tony, Is this what your talking about?
 

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JRSVIPR said:
Tony, Is this what your talking about?
Click to expand...
no sir thats sythetic full blend, let me see if I can find it for ya.

sythetics are a superior fluid, used them in the race bikes, but you need to change it very frequently like ferrari said
 
ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
 
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