type 2 vw transmission

flchub

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Probably one of the cal guys will know this :dontknow: , i'm looking for a 5 speed transmission that will bolt in to my 66 transporter,obviously it will be an aftermarket trans since all type 2"s came with a 4 speed tranny in the 60's and 70's.

its been awhile since i looked for vw parts so any help will be appreciated.

ps: i've already looked in the samba.com
 
flchub said:
Probably one of the cal guys will know this :dontknow: , i'm looking for a 5 speed transmission that will bolt in to my 66 transporter,obviously it will be an aftermarket trans since all type 2"s came with a 4 speed tranny in the 60's and 70's.

its been awhile since i looked for vw parts so any help will be appreciated.

ps: i've already looked in the samba.com

You can also use a 901 front shift five speed from a 65-69 911 w/out too many issues...915 sideshift will NOT in your application. 68 and later baywindow buses (we'll call em buses even tho they are turds if they aren't splitties ;) ) used type "4" trans similar to a 914 transaxle.... You will need to swap your rear suspension to IRS to use the 911 trans (see below), a 901 is good for 350+HP and equal torque so you wont bust it hauling heavy loads.... IT really depends on WHAT you're wanting the 5 speed for...MOST 5 speeds keep the 5th gear ration the same as the stock 4th so you get no overdrive...you just get quicker acceleration and easier time to haul more weight... Now if you DO find a 5 speed or a "freeway flier" type trans (4 speed with taller 4th for lower revs) you gotta be careful in the hot weather cuz the Type 1/2 engine's cooling fan is meant to turn a minimum speed and when you overdrive the trans, the RPMs come down and you'll cook you motor even tho there's less "load" on the engine...remember the fan keeps it alive......so if you DO go for an overdrive, you REALLY need to tap the case for full flow and put a fan-powered oil cooler in the system to make up for the increase in heat...DO NOT use a oilpump cover type "cooler" adaptor as they only cool about 10% of the oil. Another handy tip is a deep sump from Berg or a similar company. More oil capacity = more area to disperse heat. Hopefully you have a dual relief case, but at the very least add an oil cooler if you overdrive your trans with whatever choice you make...TRUST ME, I've dumped enough Type 1 engines on the pavement....


You need to improvise on the shift lever (simple mod, you'll know it when you try to put the stick in.... its just a bend or 2 to clear the parts in the bus... you can keep the swing axles if you weld the back 1/2 of an IRS trailing arm to the spring plate *OR* weld IRS pivots to your torsion housing (its really NOT that hard if you find someone who welds cheap) you'll need the IRS trailing arms and brakes/backing plates/etc.... *HINT* get them from a 77-82 porsche 924 at an ecology junkyard and NOT a VW wrecker...same parts, ecology will tag you a lot less than a "VW guru" for the same friggen parts.... Also, Type 181 and 924 CV joints are 100mm and should work in place of the 3x expensive 911 CVs (but double check the splines, its been 10yrs since I did this sh1t)

Its definitely do-able.....Check this info out....


http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/porsche5spdconv.htm
http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/trans.shtml#t2

Type1 and Type 2 are essentially identical in the rear end except for the alpine reduction boxes on the transaxle. If you use a 901 you'll need to flip the ring and pinion or you'll have 5 reverse's and 1 forward gear hahaha...

Also be sure to check out www.shastasnowtrip.com if you think you got the huevos to hang for a week with REAL Type 2 people that drive their buses thru terrain most 4x4 guys would not drive thru, and survive each time...its nuts but its a must-do experience if you're hardcore dubber like myself and can do 2900 miles in 7 days.... Its a hell of a good time if you're a masocist...pussies need not apply.... Also check out www.backroadbus.com and www.rustybus.com

I know this is a lot to absorb but I KNOW MY SHIT so if you want good info, email me and I can help you out. I always got love for fellow dubbers.... stay cool...


J

*NOTE* this info came from my son not me.... if you want more info PM me and Ill give you his email address.... If you're in SoCal he might be able to help you do the swap as well...
 
Wifey said:
You can also use a 901 front shift five speed from a 65-69 911 w/out too many issues...915 sideshift will NOT in your application. 68 and later baywindow buses (we'll call em buses even tho they are turds if they aren't splitties ;) ) used type "4" trans similar to a 914 transaxle.... You will need to swap your rear suspension to IRS to use the 911 trans (see below), a 901 is good for 350+HP and equal torque so you wont bust it hauling heavy loads.... IT really depends on WHAT you're wanting the 5 speed for...MOST 5 speeds keep the 5th gear ration the same as the stock 4th so you get no overdrive...you just get quicker acceleration and easier time to haul more weight... Now if you DO find a 5 speed or a "freeway flier" type trans (4 speed with taller 4th for lower revs) you gotta be careful in the hot weather cuz the Type 1/2 engine's cooling fan is meant to turn a minimum speed and when you overdrive the trans, the RPMs come down and you'll cook you motor even tho there's less "load" on the engine...remember the fan keeps it alive......so if you DO go for an overdrive, you REALLY need to tap the case for full flow and put a fan-powered oil cooler in the system to make up for the increase in heat...DO NOT use a oilpump cover type "cooler" adaptor as they only cool about 10% of the oil. Another handy tip is a deep sump from Berg or a similar company. More oil capacity = more area to disperse heat. Hopefully you have a dual relief case, but at the very least add an oil cooler if you overdrive your trans with whatever choice you make...TRUST ME, I've dumped enough Type 1 engines on the pavement....


You need to improvise on the shift lever (simple mod, you'll know it when you try to put the stick in.... its just a bend or 2 to clear the parts in the bus... you can keep the swing axles if you weld the back 1/2 of an IRS trailing arm to the spring plate *OR* weld IRS pivots to your torsion housing (its really NOT that hard if you find someone who welds cheap) you'll need the IRS trailing arms and brakes/backing plates/etc.... *HINT* get them from a 77-82 porsche 924 at an ecology junkyard and NOT a VW wrecker...same parts, ecology will tag you a lot less than a "VW guru" for the same friggen parts.... Also, Type 181 and 924 CV joints are 100mm and should work in place of the 3x expensive 911 CVs (but double check the splines, its been 10yrs since I did this sh1t)

Its definitely do-able.....Check this info out....


http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/porsche5spdconv.htm
http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/trans.shtml#t2

Type1 and Type 2 are essentially identical in the rear end except for the alpine reduction boxes on the transaxle. If you use a 901 you'll need to flip the ring and pinion or you'll have 5 reverse's and 1 forward gear hahaha...

Also be sure to check out www.shastasnowtrip.com if you think you got the huevos to hang for a week with REAL Type 2 people that drive their buses thru terrain most 4x4 guys would not drive thru, and survive each time...its nuts but its a must-do experience if you're hardcore dubber like myself and can do 2900 miles in 7 days.... Its a hell of a good time if you're a masocist...pussies need not apply.... Also check out www.backroadbus.com and www.rustybus.com

I know this is a lot to absorb but I KNOW MY SHIT so if you want good info, email me and I can help you out. I always got love for fellow dubbers.... stay cool...


J

*NOTE* this info came from my son not me.... if you want more info PM me and Ill give you his email address.... If you're in SoCal he might be able to help you do the swap as well...
i could put a taller gear in 4th i suppose,the engine is a 1776 that i built for my 71 bus,has 041 heads with dual 34 webbers,deep oil sump.

as much as i would like to screw around with the porsche trans,i'll probably look for a taller gear first and see how it does.

thanks for all the info,u do know ur vw's,thats for sure!
 
flchub said:
i could put a taller gear in 4th i suppose,the engine is a 1776 that i built for my 71 bus,has 041 heads with dual 34 webbers,deep oil sump.

as much as i would like to screw around with the porsche trans,i'll probably look for a taller gear first and see how it does.

thanks for all the info,u do know ur vw's,thats for sure!
1776 is a good size but they tend to overheat because the bore is so big so use 20/50 oil, high volume pump and tap for full flow and you will be good to go... I know it's just my opinion but you'd be better off ditching the dual 34's and going with a single DGV down draft on a common intake.

Also, DO NOT run a 009 distributor, they were NEVER made or installed by VW on ANY stock vehicle, they are intended PURELY for wide open drag racing w/no vacuum advance. Find a 010 distributor, keep the vacuum cans and you're DGV and the motor will run a LOT better with a lot MORE torque...TORQUE moves, horsepower makes noise..... so if you want my humble opinion (from years of doing this stuff) ditch the 009 go to the DGV, keep the 041's and have a shot at your taller 1st gear....

Good luck with your endeavor, if you wanna talk VWs look up the Shasta group on Yahoo, or Please send me an email to [email protected] so we can keep it off this *cough* dodge forum.... I love VWs and Ill chew both yer ears off any time you need or want advice....

Sounds like you know a little about dubs too....good job. If you dont have it yet, get the John Muir book "How to keep your VW alive" and memorize it....

Thanks for letting me give my help, I appreciate that you appreciate it.


Jay :D
 
Wifey said:
1776 is a good size but they tend to overheat because the bore is so big so use 20/50 oil, high volume pump and tap for full flow and you will be good to go... I know it's just my opinion but you'd be better off ditching the dual 34's and going with a single DGV down draft on a common intake.

Also, DO NOT run a 009 distributor, they were NEVER made or installed by VW on ANY stock vehicle, they are intended PURELY for wide open drag racing w/no vacuum advance. Find a 010 distributor, keep the vacuum cans and you're DGV and the motor will run a LOT better with a lot MORE torque...TORQUE moves, horsepower makes noise..... so if you want my humble opinion (from years of doing this stuff) ditch the 009 go to the DGV, keep the 041's and have a shot at your taller 1st gear....

Good luck with your endeavor, if you wanna talk VWs look up the Shasta group on Yahoo, or Please send me an email to [email protected] so we can keep it off this *cough* dodge forum.... I love VWs and Ill chew both yer ears off any time you need or want advice....

Sounds like you know a little about dubs too....good job. If you dont have it yet, get the John Muir book "How to keep your VW alive" and memorize it....

Thanks for letting me give my help, I appreciate that you appreciate it.


Jay :D
Remember, he learned everything he knows from ME :p :p :p ;) ;) :D :rock: :rock: :rock: :elefant:
 
Wifey said:
1776 is a good size but they tend to overheat because the bore is so big so use 20/50 oil, high volume pump and tap for full flow and you will be good to go... I know it's just my opinion but you'd be better off ditching the dual 34's and going with a single DGV down draft on a common intake.

Also, DO NOT run a 009 distributor, they were NEVER made or installed by VW on ANY stock vehicle, they are intended PURELY for wide open drag racing w/no vacuum advance. Find a 010 distributor, keep the vacuum cans and you're DGV and the motor will run a LOT better with a lot MORE torque...TORQUE moves, horsepower makes noise..... so if you want my humble opinion (from years of doing this stuff) ditch the 009 go to the DGV, keep the 041's and have a shot at your taller 1st gear....

Good luck with your endeavor, if you wanna talk VWs look up the Shasta group on Yahoo, or Please send me an email to [email protected] so we can keep it off this *cough* dodge forum.... I love VWs and Ill chew both yer ears off any time you need or want advice....

Sounds like you know a little about dubs too....good job. If you dont have it yet, get the John Muir book "How to keep your VW alive" and memorize it....

Thanks for letting me give my help, I appreciate that you appreciate it.


Jay :D
1776 is actually a very good motor for the bus,i started building vw motors when i was 17 i worked part time in a shop in seattle.

i'm not a fan of the single carb soley because of the reaction time,duals work alot better on 041 heads.

1600 dp just isnt strong enough to run a bus as a daily driver in the fl enviroment.

1776 is really the lower end when it comes to bore and crank issues,if the motor was 1900 or more i wouldnt use it as a daily driver for the bus.
you get enough power from the motor and it doesnt run as hot,obviuosly running synthetic oil might be a good choice now,when i last ran the motor that wasnt really available,lol its been sitting since 95,probably have to send the heads to the machine shop and go through the block just to make sure nothing has corroded.

we always used the 009 though without issues ,but we rarely ran stock setups or single carbs,i will look into ur 010 info ,cant really hurt.
thanks
 
flchub said:
we always used the 009 though without issues ,but we rarely ran stock setups or single carbs,i will look into ur 010 info ,cant really hurt.
thanks

009 gives full swing advance at the completely wrong time for street driven vehicle. When you're at part throttle you have no vacuum to pull timing out so you end up with a motor that has flat spots and wants to ping at part throttle. 010 has vacuum can. when you are at part throttle the vacuum retards the advance under load so you dont ping and you dont get that off idle flat spot that every 009 experiences. Again, VW never sold a 009 on any factory produced car, they were made by the racing division for road racing cars that were meant to be held at WOT. Not to diss you or anything, but an 010 makes a type 1 motor run so smooth in traffic that you will never want a 009 ever again. There is also a distributor used on circa 65 type 1's with dual vacuum can that works just as well. When you are at part throttle with the 009 at say 3500 rpm you are already at almost full advance. Basically, you are setting your engine up to be in a constant state of pinging because you are running to much advance under load in traffic.
Do a google search for rebuilt VW distributors and learn the timing curves for each model. :rock:
Send me an email and I'll send you a link to a site that details EVERY distributor that VW ever made and then you can decide for yourself but I assure you 009's are shit on the street - I appreciate the good VW talk, hope to chat again soon :)
 
Wifey said:
009 gives full swing advance at the completely wrong time for street driven vehicle. When you're at part throttle you have no vacuum to pull timing out so you end up with a motor that has flat spots and wants to ping at part throttle. 010 has vacuum can. when you are at part throttle the vacuum retards the advance under load so you dont ping and you dont get that off idle flat spot that every 009 experiences. Again, VW never sold a 009 on any factory produced car, they were made by the racing division for road racing cars that were meant to be held at WOT. Not to diss you or anything, but an 010 makes a type 1 motor run so smooth in traffic that you will never want a 009 ever again. There is also a distributor used on circa 65 type 1's with dual vacuum can that works just as well. When you are at part throttle with the 009 at say 3500 rpm you are already at almost full advance. Basically, you are setting your engine up to be in a constant state of pinging because you are running to much advance under load in traffic.
Do a google search for rebuilt VW distributors and learn the timing curves for each model. :rock:
Send me an email and I'll send you a link to a site that details EVERY distributor that VW ever made and then you can decide for yourself but I assure you 009's are shit on the street - I appreciate the good VW talk, hope to chat again soon :)
i'll definitely check it out,thanks
 

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