Upper Radiator hose came off

shorty said:
If the Dodge dealer does not have a Viper certified mechanic then I would run. I have been to both and I believe there is a huge difference. One dealer said he did not have a factory certified Viper mechanic and refused to work on my truck. I also realize the many of the guy here are everybit as good as a factory trained Viper mechanic but by and large the dealerships are not that specialized.

Also is must be understood that most of us here should be "certified" but that has nothing to do with the SRT-10 trucks----frontal lobe issues. :burnout:
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i want to be "certifiable"……..:D
 
Ok, so now the dealer is saying it's not overheating. They did a coolant pressure check and it came back normal and they were able to drive it for 10 minutes up and down the highway without any issues. How the hell? Is it possible that maybe it's a wonky tstat afterall or just the pressure had to stabilize after the replacing of the upper radiator hose clamp and cap?
 
Soapy00 said:
Ok, so now the dealer is saying it's not overheating. They did a coolant pressure check and it came back normal and they were able to drive it for 10 minutes up and down the highway without any issues. How the hell? Is it possible that maybe it's a wonky tstat afterall or just the pressure had to stabilize after the replacing of the upper radiator hose clamp and cap?
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Did you ever bleed the cooling system thoroughly when the other stuff was done?

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I didn't, no, I got a new hose clamp and a new cap. Was I supposed to bleed the system after doing that? I can have the dealer do that if that's the case.
 
Soapy00 said:
I didn't, no, I got a new hose clamp and a new cap. Was I supposed to bleed the system after doing that? I can have the dealer do that if that's the case.
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If air could have gotten in system then bleeding could help. Theres a screw on thermostat housing. Simple to do.

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If you just put on a hose & cap you definitely had air in the system. All air must be removed for the system to work properly.
 
Yes you had air in housing where sensor is, therefore the sensor just read hot air and will shoot gauge up very quickly, but a false reading as it's not reading coolant temp being there's no coolant in that area. Top off radiator, turn on heater and bleed from fitting on TStat housing. Once again, something caused an over pressurization of the system. Clamps don't just come loose. I'd still put a stat in it. 170* preferably
 
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Sometimes a hot head (no coolant/pun intended) will peg the gauge sometimes not.
Drove more than one car with the temperature gauge pegged & not a lick of heat coming out the heater due to no coolant in the head. In 20 degree weather of course.
 
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