I'm having my tranny rebuilt but I don't know what the stall speed should be set at. I'm running about 650 RWHP on the street but can raise the boost for about 800 RWHP. So what stall speed?
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What should the Stall be set at for FI?
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505'sFastestViper.
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3600-4000 seems to be working good so far and still ahs a lot of driveability
What is the advantage to having a higher stall?
VENOMOUS1 RACING
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I would say based on your power something around 3000 stall. If you plan to track only I'd go 3500-4000 to put the engine in it's powerband at launch. Proper tranny cooling would be needed I would think on the steet and track to keep temps down.
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I've got a 2400 in the other truck, it isn't enough for me next year I'm going to put a 3500 stall and see if I can get a trans brake installed. And then put my 390s on and that should be one hell of a launch:burnout:
I ran a 2600 stall and It was perfect on the street, that's what I will be changing mine to by spring in this truck
going much over 2400-2600 for the street is gonna cause tremendous heat an hurt the overall drivabilty a bit,
anythign over that and you are basically sitting on a track truck, if you drive it daily stay in the mid 2000 mark if you want more track oriented and be more pron to tranny failure and overheating go higher,
anythign over that and you are basically sitting on a track truck, if you drive it daily stay in the mid 2000 mark if you want more track oriented and be more pron to tranny failure and overheating go higher,
505'sFastestViper.
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i really dont agree with that at all....first one was at 5000 and still had great street ability ...if he goes to low his turbo will NEVER spool up on a brakeJTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
505'sFastestViper. said:
5000??! Really? Am I missing the punchline? I don't want to see someone on the forum buying something they will later regret.
2500 and 2800 on my trucks. 2800 is pushing it driving around town, unless you want to sound like a Honda at 20 mph.
I would agree with Stinker, you want somewhere around 2400-2800 in our trucks if you also use it on the public streets.
505'sFastestViper.
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he is turbo charged i a talking about spooling it up on the brake i a around 4k now and it sees about perfect.........i drove y truck over 500 iles the last few weeks with a 5k stall i dont know what your referring to as sounding like a honda....but then again i a just getting the truck dialed in and really not that fast yet but what do i knowBone said:
I had a 3k in the hemi with 3.92 gears and i could have went higher...... It really depends on your build and were your building power...... I do not know enough aboutthe 10's to make a "good recommendation" but I would say for him with him having turbo's he would want at least a 3000 to 3500k to help get it out the hole a bit faster..... just depends on what rpm his power band is at.....
Goodluck with that. My 390's are hit and miss, as far as hooking goes, with my 2400 stall TC. They may hook better if they were new. But I dropped to 18 psi and still got tire spin.Ramchargerguy said:
for one its my job to make sure you get the right converter so that 7000 miles down the road your tranny dont go south an you decide to call me up and bitch about the converter heating up , comming apart and grenading the tranny, so...
for street use
one of the things that gets confusing is converter slip. Slip is basically a measure of converter efficiency. Due to the difference in rotating speeds between the impeller and the turbine, there is usually about a 10 percent efficiency loss a converter gradually slips, or creeps up, to full stall/lockup rpm, the higher the stall speed, the more slippage you get. On a street-driven vehicle, that can lead to tremendous heat and poor drivability,he number one killer of converters and transmissions is heat, so if your stall is higher than your normal cruise rpm the converter cannot completely lock up correctly, then over time the heat is eventually going to make either the converter fail, cook the transmission or the converter can come apart and take the tranny with it, so on a street driven daily driver, staying around the cruise rpm is best,
and actually most trucks will start making trq in this area which the converter will work properly in, even with a 2400 rpm converter it is best to get some extra fluid or a cooler to keep the temps down.
the 2400 which we decided was best for all around performance, and has shown even in the 1/8th mile to pick up .3 tenths the temps went up abot 10-20 degrees, so going to a 3000 or better is really gonna do nothing but cause more heat and more damage to the tranny and shorten its life.
for track use
Nitrous or supercharging also affect converter selection. An engine with one of these power adders produces more torque than it would if it was normally aspirated. That means a nitrous or blown engine needs a converter with a lower stall speed range. Otherwise, the converter will stall too high, causing it to slip and eventually self-destruct due to the extra heat generated.
while turbos generally have to be turned a bit higher to actually make hp, a higher stall is needed so that the turbo will spool properly,
but both of these actually can have effects on a street driven vehicle and should be used only for track purposes.
to be general and straight out, you need to decide on a convertor by how much and where the trq curve is on the vehicle you are buying it for, jsut having a "high stall" converter is not the answer, some need more, some need less, it all depends on the type build, how you drive, and how the engine is modded.
tak the advice or not, but too high a stall speed and drive it daily , and you are asking for more trouble than its worth, jsut trying to save people a couple bucks
for street use
one of the things that gets confusing is converter slip. Slip is basically a measure of converter efficiency. Due to the difference in rotating speeds between the impeller and the turbine, there is usually about a 10 percent efficiency loss a converter gradually slips, or creeps up, to full stall/lockup rpm, the higher the stall speed, the more slippage you get. On a street-driven vehicle, that can lead to tremendous heat and poor drivability,he number one killer of converters and transmissions is heat, so if your stall is higher than your normal cruise rpm the converter cannot completely lock up correctly, then over time the heat is eventually going to make either the converter fail, cook the transmission or the converter can come apart and take the tranny with it, so on a street driven daily driver, staying around the cruise rpm is best,
and actually most trucks will start making trq in this area which the converter will work properly in, even with a 2400 rpm converter it is best to get some extra fluid or a cooler to keep the temps down.
the 2400 which we decided was best for all around performance, and has shown even in the 1/8th mile to pick up .3 tenths the temps went up abot 10-20 degrees, so going to a 3000 or better is really gonna do nothing but cause more heat and more damage to the tranny and shorten its life.
for track use
Nitrous or supercharging also affect converter selection. An engine with one of these power adders produces more torque than it would if it was normally aspirated. That means a nitrous or blown engine needs a converter with a lower stall speed range. Otherwise, the converter will stall too high, causing it to slip and eventually self-destruct due to the extra heat generated.
while turbos generally have to be turned a bit higher to actually make hp, a higher stall is needed so that the turbo will spool properly,
but both of these actually can have effects on a street driven vehicle and should be used only for track purposes.
to be general and straight out, you need to decide on a convertor by how much and where the trq curve is on the vehicle you are buying it for, jsut having a "high stall" converter is not the answer, some need more, some need less, it all depends on the type build, how you drive, and how the engine is modded.
tak the advice or not, but too high a stall speed and drive it daily , and you are asking for more trouble than its worth, jsut trying to save people a couple bucks
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With the 2600 stall tq I ran , I had over 60K on mine and had no problems.Like Stinker is saying I wouldn't go over 2800 unless you have had one and sure that's what ya want.
I am considering the 2400 converter also, but am concerned about cruising mileage/wear/heat. Do our converters have an actual factory "lock up" mechanism. I am not thinking about when slip is minimized, but an actual lock up mechanism that creates a 1 to 1 conversion from flywheel rpm to converter to trans output rpms. If it does have it, is it controlled by the throttle or by the computer. Thanks.
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DESRT10 said:
The TC does have a lockup clutch. Stock, it engages in 4th around 42mph. You can change that with the PCM program. It can lock in 3rd and 4th. You could make it lock up at 30mph in 4th if you wanted, but I think the engine would be right around 1000 rpm. You could then program it to unlock with say a little more than a 10% throttle increase. That way it would mostly stay locked up and then unlock before lugging the engine.
WOT said:
Awesome info WOT. Thank you.
Stinker- does the 2400 TC retain the lock up clutch? Also how much does it weigh? I do like the idea of smaller rotational diameter and lighter, should help rpms like a light flywheel.
not sure, I was gonna get steve to wiegh both , but not sure if he ever did
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