What's this noise?

Slitherbeast is correct. The moron talking about water in your engine is indeed a troll. With our fragile ass pistons I wouldn't do the rope trick, it takes a substantial force to torque that bolt. Use you flexplate starter teeth with flywheel tool easy peezy bud. I also have new SRT factory gauges boss. Be happy to help with anything you need sir.
 
Slitherbeast said:
Remove one sparkplug feed about 8-10" of 1/4" rope into sparkplug hole.leave a tail of rope out! Make sure rope is clean of course. The rope will not allow the piston to crest TDC. Once bolt is torqued reverse crank rotation and remove rope. Replace sparkplug.
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Quite right, old school trick for poor people who can't afford fancy tools like piston stops and flywheel teeth stops. Haven't heard anyone using it in years. If Scott says the pistons are fragile then I guess they are, stupid cast pistons, only a bean counter would put cast pistons in a performance motor
You can use this to set cam timing without a degree wheel also, at least in older B and RB blocks that is.
 
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VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
Slitherbeast is correct. The moron talking about water in your engine is indeed a troll. With our fragile ass pistons I wouldn't do the rope trick, it takes a substantial force to torque that bolt. Use you flexplate starter teeth with flywheel tool easy peezy bud. I also have new SRT factory gauges boss. Be happy to help with anything you need sir.
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Anyone who wouldn't see the obvious purposeful humor in my post is a little slow ;)



For the OP, the flexplate idea is the best one for this I agree.
 
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I heard this noise before in an AC compressor. You can try running the engine and spray the AC with water if it makes the noise change thats it. Also turn your AC on High if it stops that will confirm thats it.
 
trussman said:
Anyone who wouldn't see the obvious purposeful humor in my post is a little slow ;)



For the OP, the flexplate idea is the best one for this I agree.
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Me: "I guess I better go drain that water from my engine ASAP" :D
 
I'm gonna need to go stuff some sponges in the spark plug hole now to soak up the excess after I get the rope fished back out, the 'tail' fell in... I knew the water was trolling, obviously, but that rope in the cylinder almost sounded legit enough that I was wondering, I'm thinking, seriously? Would anyone actually do that? I guess if they used to great, but I'm too chicken and worried that somehow I'd lose it in there. :)

Yah I stopped and rented a Chrysler flexplate holder tool (and I have a pipe I can brace the flywheel teeth with if need be), as well as purchasing the idler pulley, new belt, and a new tensioner, should have time Saturday morning to finally try checking all the recommended things one at a time (I'm gonna start with the water on the AC compressor trick first).

Thanks everyone!
 
So, replaced the idler pulley, sound went away when rpms were increased but was still there at idle. Replaced the belt, sound went away completely. But... that said, last time the belt was replaced this happened and it came back a couple days later. I'm still gonna check the balancer and crank bolt tomorrow morning anyway...
 
So after about 4 days the squeaking came back some... But only at WOT, otherwise it doesn't happen at idle. So I'm guessing I need to replace the tensioner still, Napa doesn't have one for this truck. Has anyone used the one from Rock Auto? It's less than half the cost of OEM from Dodge.
 
mtltemplar said:
So after about 4 days the squeaking came back some... But only at WOT, otherwise it doesn't happen at idle. So I'm guessing I need to replace the tensioner still, Napa doesn't have one for this truck. Has anyone used the one from Rock Auto? It's less than half the cost of OEM from Dodge.
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Just get the Mopar one or you will be sorry. Although that manual adjuster one might be the nuts. Only reason they made a spring-loaded one is God forbid a tech has to inspect The tension and possibly adjust it.
 
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10-1=9 said:
Just get the Mopar one or you will be sorry. Although that manual adjuster one might be the nuts. Only reason they made a spring-loaded one is God forbid a tech has to inspect The tension and possibly adjust it.
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Quick question guys, my tensioner pulley took a dump and completely disintegrated and took the belt with it so I just bought one from MOPAR along with a new belt, $170 for both. I inspected the new tensioner and the pulley has some play in it, you can rock it back and forth. Is this normal? I'm taking it back to the dealership and ask them, if they say it is, I'll most likely buy Tony's adjustable billet tensioner and metal pulley.
 
ya should be able to feel a very small amount of play
 
ZCx said:
ya should be able to feel a very small amount of play
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Well, I wasn't comfortable with the amount of play on the pulley and don't really want to have another failure and leave me stranded so I'm most likely going to order Tony's adjustable tensioner with the metal pulley. I'm wanting to get an under drive pulley in the future too so hopefully I won't have to buy another belt since it's adjustable.
 
Guess something is still wrong... Need to buy the new tensioner I guess - still hadn't done that yet. Went to work my overheating issue today (replacing thermostat and temp sensor) and see this - and that was on a brand new belt that I put in there at the end of October.
 

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mtltemplar said:
Guess something is still wrong... Need to buy the new tensioner I guess - still hadn't done that yet. Went to work my overheating issue today (replacing thermostat and temp sensor) and see this - and that was on a brand new belt that I put in there at the end of October.
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That's not good. Looks like you still have a problem. That belt not turning the water pump is probably your overheating problem. The pulley with a little play probably works better. Believe you need a shorter belt with the under drive pulley no matter what.
 
spin all the pulleys by hand and make sure they spin freely. find the one that is dragging and stressing the belt. If that checks out then eyeball the pulley alignment. could be a misaligned pulley. The over heating would be from the crank pulley slipping and not turning the water pump. Overheat the belt and it will get longer. and looser. something is holding the belt back.. could be a powersteering pump as well.
 
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