Wheel hop problem detroys my spider gears!!

fun2xlr8

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Hey guys. Just got home from the Dodge dealership. The wheel hop problem I was experiencing the past two trips to the track did some damage. The dealership wants $3000 to fix it. I talked them out of replacing the gears and pinion bearing, but the diff is a total loss. So now more like $1500. The wheel hop was so bad, I managed to shear off several of the teeth on the spider gears and render my clutch pack unusable.

I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't done it and seen the damage with my own eyes. Heck, I've had Chevy 10-bolt rears hold up to more stress and faster times than that with slicks on.

Anyway, just wondering, as I plan to continue racing this truck in the future, is there a company that makes an upgraded diff that guys running slicks are using, or is my only choice to go completely fabbed like a Mark Williams or Moser full-on replacement housing? Did I just get a lemon diff and will be all good once I replace it? This is the first time in many years of drag racing that I have ever broken any internal rearend parts, and it is also supposedly the most heavy-duty rearend I have ever used, so what gives.

Greg
 
John Stuttle....destroyed his...I mean food proccessor.....Caltracs stop the wheel hop.....
 
I was running the Nitto drag radials. When they started really sticking at my third pass, that is when I got the wheel hop. By my fourth pass it was Pro stock-like wheel hop. Uncontrollable, basicly. I was launching at between 1200 and 1800 RPM and it made no difference. The tires gripped so hard, the truck just wanted to bounce. I will not be racing it again until I get the line lock, Cal-Tracs, and some new rear drag shocks, so I don't destroy what I just replaced.

Greg
 
Nowwhat said:
jealous...........?:D

Looking to avoid spending more money to fix things. That motor/Paxton transplant set me back quite a few years (to payoff). Plus, until I find another tow vehicle I'm driving this truck to the track (3 hours+) and home. It would suck to break down at the track being my only means of transportation. Luckily, my parents live about 10 minutes from Bandimere so if worse comes to worse I could probably borrow a vehicle to get back home.
 
fun2xlr8 said:
I was running the Nitto drag radials. When they started really sticking at my third pass, that is when I got the wheel hop. By my fourth pass it was Pro stock-like wheel hop. Uncontrollable, basicly. I was launching at between 1200 and 1800 RPM and it made no difference. The tires gripped so hard, the truck just wanted to bounce. I will not be racing it again until I get the line lock, Cal-Tracs, and some new rear drag shocks, so I don't destroy what I just replaced.

Greg

Have had no hop in mine....See sig.
Sorry to hear about the rear end, I had the Calverts before I got the DR's...
and had to wait to "press the truck" till I got the loop on her. (Done)
Go figure she is ready to run...and it's Africa hot here. So she wait's till "season"
It was tough in Columbus...beautiful outside....at the drag strip.... war cry from all the cars/ trucks running, odor of burnt rubber.....and my truck was 1200 miles South....never again.

Good luck on the re-build.
 
fun2xlr8 said:
Man, that's awful tempting, except that the shipping will kill me to Washington State. How much are the calipers and rotors worth to you?

Greg

whatever is fair....?....$350?...plus shipping from WA.....:D
 
Nowwhat said:
whatever is fair....?....$350?...plus shipping from WA.....:D

That's fair, I think? Haven't priced rotors and calipers, so that sounds good to me I guess. Would you be willing to take the rotors and calipers off my truck so I can leave that rear as one piece and just throw it in at once? They have 12K miles on them and I will check the thickness and have them turned before sending them to you to make sure they are usable. You just use the old pads or buy new pads.

Greg
 
fun2xlr8 said:
That's fair, I think? Haven't priced rotors and calipers, so that sounds good to me I guess. Would you be willing to take the rotors and calipers off my truck so I can leave that rear as one piece and just throw it in at once? They have 12K miles on them and I will check the thickness and have them turned before sending them to you to make sure they are usable. You just use the old pads or buy new pads.

Greg

yep....willing to do that......
 
Cool, PM me with your info. I will let you know tomorrow when the auction ends if I get it. Now all I need to do is find someone who wants my axles, 4:10 gears and the carrier that needs new innards. Any takers?

Greg
 
Sorry to hear that Greg, glad the tires are stinking!! :D

I never had a wheel hop problem, but then again I have caltracs, I would highly recommend them now that I've seen what is happening to peoples diffs!

-Red
 
RedSrt007 said:
Sorry to hear that Greg, glad the tires are stinking!! :D

I never had a wheel hop problem, but then again I have caltracs, I would highly recommend them now that I've seen what is happening to peoples diffs!

-Red

dumb question... what do caltracs do?
 
RedSrt007 said:
Sorry to hear that Greg, glad the tires are stinking!! :D

I never had a wheel hop problem, but then again I have caltracs, I would highly recommend them now that I've seen what is happening to peoples diffs!

-Red


YOU DID THIS TO MEEEEE.....YOU BASTARD!!!!!!!! Just kidding bro. :D Yeah, they stick all right, a bit too well, I'm afraid. Actually drove it down to Portland(280 Miles RT) right after it happened two weeks ago. Lucky I made it there and back OK. Especially considering I ran up next to a Jag at 130MPH on the way back!! Started really making noise and popping badly after racing last weekend, though. Knew it was serious by then.

Greg
 
Srt10Addict said:
dumb question... what do caltracs do?

They act as a brace between your front leaf spring mount and the rear housing. Without them, when you put a lot of power into a leaf sprung rear, the leafs tend to twist into an "S" shape. The Cal-Tracs redirect this binding force to actually cause your rear tires to plant harder to the ground, thus eliminating wheel spin, wheel hop or any other leaf spring related traction issues. It's sorta like adding ladder bars to your leaf springs. They work great and are a simple bolt-on. Simple, not counting pressing the spring front bushing in.

Greg
 

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