Why Does My Back-Up Lamp Fuse Keep Blowing?

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Kevan

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This problem just started in the last 2-3 weeks.
The 15A fuse for the back-up lamps blows after only 1-2 seconds of operation.

- I've made no changes to the back-up system, nor shifter or transmission.
- Both lamps are operational (for a few seconds).
- The inverter is NOT hooked up.
- The stock fuse for the back-up lamps is 15A.

Before I head down to the dealership for the "shoulder shrug", I figured I'd check in here to see if anyone knows why this is happening.

TIA
 
It is possible because of high current flow but I don't know because I need to use the DMM to test it. Have the dealer check it for you. OR it is possible because of the wire that is loss and touch the frame of body (ground) and blown the fuse.
 
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Is there a backup light switch on the tranny (like when you put in in reverse the lights come on)???????:confused: Then the fuse blows?????
 
Well, after two evenings of searching, I have found nothing.
- All wires are fine, and inside their respective split-loom tubing.
- Switch on transmission functions properly as per DMM testing.
- All connectors and connector housings are intact, clean and locked.
- All bulbs are intact.

I'd search more, but I'm tired of rollin' around on the cold concrete of the garage.
Dealer visit on Monday.
Results will be posted.
 
Kevan said:
Well, after two evenings of searching, I have found nothing.
- All wires are fine, and inside their respective split-loom tubing.
- Switch on transmission functions properly as per DMM testing.
- All connectors and connector housings are intact, clean and locked.
- All bulbs are intact.

I'd search more, but I'm tired of rollin' around on the cold concrete of the garage.
Dealer visit on Monday.
Results will be posted.
Click to expand...
Do you have the "under tailgate light bar" and does it have reverse light feature? If you haven't already done so, unplug that and see if things straighten out. :dontknow:
 
2 other things that can cause this is if the reverse lights are staying on even when not in reverse causing it to overheat and blow a fuse or there is a short in the switch/relay that turns on the reverse lights when you put it in reverse. Either can be caused by a faulty switch/relay. I'd try changing out that switch/relay first. If it's not the switch/relay i'd look for a dead short somewhere.
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
Do you have the "under tailgate light bar" and does it have reverse light feature? If you haven't already done so, unplug that and see if things straighten out. :dontknow:
Click to expand...
I do have the LineOfFire. It is connected properly via the trailer wiring (and functioning properly).
My LOF does not have the reverse light feature.

Fepony said:
2 other things that can cause this is if the reverse lights are staying on even when not in reverse causing it to overheat and blow a fuse or there is a short in the switch/relay that turns on the reverse lights when you put it in reverse. Either can be caused by a faulty switch/relay. I'd try changing out that switch/relay first. If it's not the switch/relay i'd look for a dead short somewhere.
Click to expand...
There is no relay for the back-up lamps on the SRT-10.
 

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Kevan said:
I do have the LineOfFire. It is connected properly via the trailer wiring (and functioning properly).
My LOF does not have the reverse light feature.

There is no relay for the back-up lamps on the SRT-10.
Click to expand...

Then how are they activated? There has to be a switch somewhere. When you put the shifter in reverse, it triggers your back up lights.
 
Fepony said:
Then how are they activated? There has to be a switch somewhere. When you put the shifter in reverse, it triggers your back up lights.
Click to expand...
From post #10 in this thread:
Kevan said:
Well, after two evenings of searching, I have found nothing.
- All wires are fine, and inside their respective split-loom tubing.
- Switch on transmission functions properly as per DMM testing.
- All connectors and connector housings are intact, clean and locked.
- All bulbs are intact.

I'd search more, but I'm tired of rollin' around on the cold concrete of the garage.
Dealer visit on Monday.
Results will be posted.
Click to expand...

There is a switch on the driver's side of the transmission, just below the shifter socket.
 
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SOLVED!

The switch on the transmission *was* bad. It was only shorting out when the key was in the ON position and the shifter was put into reverse.
That's why I didn't find the problem the DMM test.

- Dealer ordered the new switch.
- 6 days later, switch arrives (they should have ordered it from Dragon! LOL).
- Tech installs new transmission back-up switch in less than an hour.
- Tech installs new fuse in less than a minute.
- Tech checks back-up lamps work properly.
- Kev leaves with truck.

Total cost: $0.00
Warranty baby! :D


Props to Todd, Christine, and the tech (sorry- forgot his name) at Bob Caldwell Dodge in Columbus, OH.
 
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