Will it buff out?

Get some 2000 grid sand paper with some soapy water and wet sand the scratches and buff out the whole thing. I just did that to the Jeep and it looks fantastic
 
I'm scared of trying to buff it. The dealer I bought it from took almost all the clear off with really shitty buffing. I'll end up repainting it for sure if I sand...

In the case I do end up repainting the whole thing, should I do "Gotta have it green", or satin black?
 
I'm scared of trying to buff it. The dealer I bought it from took almost all the clear off with really shitty buffing. I'll end up repainting it for sure if I sand...

In the case I do end up repainting the whole thing, should I do "Gotta have it green", or satin black?

I think these trucks look absofalutin' BADD ASS in satin black! :rock:
 
I'm scared of trying to buff it. The dealer I bought it from took almost all the clear off with really shitty buffing. I'll end up repainting it for sure if I sand...

In the case I do end up repainting the whole thing, should I do "Gotta have it green", or satin black?

I say green but if you are having to repaint whole truck how come you don't get insurance involved?
 
Because the money wouldn't be much different and this way I can avoid needing a police report and dealing with all the parties involved.
 
I good paint job cost $4000-6000 plus your wheels and tires issue along with molding can't imagine your deductible is even close to that.
 
To repaint the entire exterior (better than new finish) would run close to 8k-10k to do it correctly. Removing door handles, emblems, pulling headlights, taillights, weather stripping, wheel well liners, pulling bed to paint back of cab, removing all cladding and ect. Noting worse than see paint edges and over spray in area that where just masked off instead of taking the time to remove the item to achieve a quality job.
If you use good quality materials (which I would highly suggest such as PPG) you'll have over 2k into the sealers, paint, clear, reducers, activators and flex agent and related prepping products.
 
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To repaint the entire exterior (better than new finish) would run close to 8k-10k to do it correctly. Removing door handles, emblems, pulling headlights, taillights, weather stripping, wheel well liners, pulling bed to paint back of cab, removing all cladding and ect. Noting worse than see paint edges and over spray in area that where just masked off instead of taking the time to remove the item to achieve a quality job.
If you use good quality materials (which I would highly suggest such as PPG) you'll have over 2k into the sealers, paint, clear, reducers, activators and flex agent and related prepping products.

Agreed you are so right. I would rather have it scratched up then put a cheap paint job on it. You can have it plasti dipped for like 600-1000 buy jay is correct about realistic cost.
 
Agreed you are so right. I would rather have it scratched up then put a cheap paint job on it. You can have it plasti dipped for like 600-1000 buy jay is correct about realistic cost.

There is no such thing as a good quality CHEAP paint job any more. The price of materials these days blow that option out of the water.
 
I doubt insurance would cover the cost of an entire paint job, they would just want to fix the minimum they could get away with.
 
Agree with Arrest me Red, the other side was not even touched, so even if I did turn it in, she won't be perfect. I'm probably gonna go with SEM Products in satin. Bout $80/qt. the badges will never be put back on though. Nothing adheres to single stage paint... If I want the badge there you gotta paint around it.
 
Agree with Arrest me Red, the other side was not even touched, so even if I did turn it in, she won't be perfect. I'm probably gonna go with SEM Products in satin. Bout $80/qt. the badges will never be put back on though. Nothing adheres to single stage paint... If I want the badge there you gotta paint around it.

Never heard of nothing sticking to single stage paint. We have never had that issue while restoring all the 70's muscle cars painting them in single stage a acrylic enamel.
 
I agree, single stage has nothing to do with badges sticking. Incorrect badge tape can do that though. I never do single stage flat black myself, I still use same base, then clear with matted clearcoat that way the UV protection is still there. You can adjust the flatness as well from flat black, to eggshell, to satin, to semi gloss. About 6 different stages of matting you can achieve with a clearcoat. You can use Shopline which is PPG's budget line paint and save several hundred and still get great look and protection but like others have said, you do get what you pay for in this industry. :D
 

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